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  #1  
Old December 26th, 2012, 09:20 AM
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Julien Dalbin
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V8 major tune up

I'm using those days off to make a major tune up on wife's V8 D2 (4.6 Bosch engine), all top engine gaskets including head gaskets, front cover, sump gasket, crankshaft seal, coolant pump, hose and thermostat, spark plugs and wires, belt, pulleys...

I have very limited knowledge with gas engine, always been a diesel man, so any feedback about things I should look for, special care with some components, tricks or anything you can think of is welcome.

Cheers
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  #2  
Old December 26th, 2012, 09:57 AM
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Julien,

If you follow the RAVE, you will not have an issue. I did most of the "removing" portion and Carlos helped me put it back together... I didn't have the tools to do it.

The head's and exhaust manifold back bolts are a bit tough to get too. Use an impact swivel/joint socket to get a better angle.

Get Loctite Silicone gasket maker and put some around the front and back coolant opening. I marked the front LH one in the pic, do all 4 corner. This is where most of Rover's fail and people blame the heads. And, also put some of that Gasket maker on the Valley Pan Gasket End Seal, right where the heads and block touch on all four corners too.

Don't know the mileage on your truck...

I did a complete tune-up last January, @ 60,000 on the 2003 DII and had to replace the PS pump a few months ago.

Maybe you want to consider the PS pump and hoses too.
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  #3  
Old December 26th, 2012, 11:54 AM
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Julien Dalbin
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My PS pump was leaking a few month ago, I put a new gasket and changed the feed (low pressure) hose and that solved it.
I heard before the silicon gasket on 4 corners of pan valley gaskets, but never for coolant stuff, should I do it even with a new gasket, on both side of gasket ?
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  #4  
Old December 27th, 2012, 08:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JFD View Post
My PS pump was leaking a few month ago, I put a new gasket and changed the feed (low pressure) hose and that solved it.
I heard before the silicon gasket on 4 corners of pan valley gaskets, but never for coolant stuff, should I do it even with a new gasket, on both side of gasket ?
OK. That solves the PS issue.

I need to show you and I don't have any pictures with me...

But that's to prevent future failure. The vast majority of Rover coolant leaks start there.
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  #5  
Old December 27th, 2012, 08:40 AM
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OK! Found a picture on Dweb...

The black "circle" is where you should put the silicone. Around those openings. Be careful you don't over do it and silicone gets inside the cooling system.

The red "circle" is for the Valley End Seal.

Just do the head and block portion. You don't need to put silicone on the top portion of the Valley Pan Gasket.

Hope this helps.
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  #6  
Old December 27th, 2012, 11:24 AM
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Thanks Pedro, this is a great tip !
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  #7  
Old December 27th, 2012, 12:41 PM
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Agree, great refresher thread. But I used great stuff to seal those areas, not silicone. So far so good.
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  #8  
Old December 27th, 2012, 12:42 PM
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I don't know what the black circles are supposed to be pointing out, but don't put any sealer there. The area in the red circles gets a VERY small dab of silicone RTV sealant. That's it. Not on the heads. Use the coated valley pan gasket.
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  #9  
Old December 27th, 2012, 03:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Neil McCauley View Post
Agree, great refresher thread. But I used great stuff to seal those areas, not silicone. So far so good.
I use RTV 598 Black Silicone from Loctite.
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  #10  
Old December 27th, 2012, 04:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Neil McCauley View Post
Agree, great refresher thread. But I used great stuff to seal those areas, not silicone. So far so good.
You mean RIGHT stuff (which is an adhesive black silicone) not GREAT stuff which is an expanding foam.
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  #11  
Old December 27th, 2012, 04:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij View Post
You mean RIGHT stuff (which is an adhesive black silicone) not GREAT stuff which is an expanding foam.
Atleast one would hope
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  #12  
Old December 27th, 2012, 06:42 PM
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Leaks on both sides.
What do you guys think:
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  #13  
Old December 27th, 2012, 06:55 PM
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Paint a vertical line on your head bolts, easy to visualize 180deg torque, cross it out after final torque so you don't lose track. You'll need a pipe or long extension to get final torque, just make it easier on your back. If its a secondary air head, use an air chisel on the nuts, give them a quick rap to spin them or else you will fight the SAI ports and twist the tubes. When putting it back together leave the bolts loose on the coil bracket then snake your intake plenum under it, or just leave the outer bolts off and fasten it with the inner only. You need not have to take the exhaust manifolds off to remove the heads. How many miles? Has it developed a tick yet? Pull a few lifters out and inspect them for dishing. If you're so inclined (since you've come this far..) do your valve stem seals. Undo the tie rod end on the drivers side and let the rod dangle so you can get the pan out from under the block, don't forget those 2 bolts that are recessed up into the back of the pan.. you'll be prying on it for days wondering why it won't drop. I find the best way by myself to get the crank pulley off is to get a med c-clamp and clamp the pulley front to back, then use a long pry bar to hold it while you break the bolt free, thats if you can't get to the inspection plate and hold the flywheel. Take a good look at your pulley for scoring at the seal, most are.. you can order a speedi sleeve from RN or NAPA part #99192. Cut a piece of plywood to the relative size of your radiator, once the shroud is off slide the wood in, then you won't be risking puncturing your radiator. Watch out for the nipple on the radiator for the over flow hose, its fragile and breaks off easily. If you're using aftermarket wires and find the #7 wire is to short, try swapping with #8 sometimes they are a bit longer and work fine since #8 coil terminal is closer to the plug than #7's.Take the time to open up your oil pump, check for severe scoring, remove the outer ring and inspect for cracks, try to pull it apart at each tooth sometimes its hard to see a crack, pump gears are cheap under $100.

That's all I can think of right now... good luck.
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  #14  
Old December 27th, 2012, 07:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij View Post

You mean RIGHT stuff (which is an adhesive black silicone) not GREAT stuff which is an expanding foam.
Neil is so caught up in Italian exotics, thinking a picture is worth a 1000 words.....
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  #15  
Old December 27th, 2012, 07:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JFD View Post
Leaks on both sides.
What do you guys think:
This is very typical... That's why I recommended to put the silicone on those 4 corners (black circles).

The valley pan gasket is a POS on the Rovers and they all fail in the same spot.
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  #16  
Old December 27th, 2012, 08:43 PM
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Yah, I use great stuff all the time in my remodels, mixed the two brands up. (Not in real life)
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  #17  
Old December 27th, 2012, 09:29 PM
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Also make sure that your metal end clamps are new or not bent is such a way as to not exert force on the ends.

------ Follow up post added December 27th, 2012 09:31 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by JFD View Post
Leaks on both sides.
What do you guys think:
I would not bother to fix that. Have you cleaned out the breathers and pipes?
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  #18  
Old December 27th, 2012, 11:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by giftshopduane View Post
Paint a vertical line on your head bolts, easy to visualize 180deg torque, cross it out after final torque so you don't lose track. You'll need a pipe or long extension to get final torque, just make it easier on your back. If its a secondary air head, use an air chisel on the nuts, give them a quick rap to spin them or else you will fight the SAI ports and twist the tubes. When putting it back together leave the bolts loose on the coil bracket then snake your intake plenum under it, or just leave the outer bolts off and fasten it with the inner only. You need not have to take the exhaust manifolds off to remove the heads. How many miles? Has it developed a tick yet? Pull a few lifters out and inspect them for dishing. If you're so inclined (since you've come this far..) do your valve stem seals. Undo the tie rod end on the drivers side and let the rod dangle so you can get the pan out from under the block, don't forget those 2 bolts that are recessed up into the back of the pan.. you'll be prying on it for days wondering why it won't drop. I find the best way by myself to get the crank pulley off is to get a med c-clamp and clamp the pulley front to back, then use a long pry bar to hold it while you break the bolt free, thats if you can't get to the inspection plate and hold the flywheel. Take a good look at your pulley for scoring at the seal, most are.. you can order a speedi sleeve from RN or NAPA part #99192. Cut a piece of plywood to the relative size of your radiator, once the shroud is off slide the wood in, then you won't be risking puncturing your radiator. Watch out for the nipple on the radiator for the over flow hose, its fragile and breaks off easily. If you're using aftermarket wires and find the #7 wire is to short, try swapping with #8 sometimes they are a bit longer and work fine since #8 coil terminal is closer to the plug than #7's.Take the time to open up your oil pump, check for severe scoring, remove the outer ring and inspect for cracks, try to pull it apart at each tooth sometimes its hard to see a crack, pump gears are cheap under $100.

That's all I can think of right now... good luck.
Wao !
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  #19  
Old December 28th, 2012, 12:00 AM
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Originally Posted by JFD View Post
Wao !
Yup..
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  #20  
Old January 1st, 2013, 02:54 PM
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Julien Dalbin
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RS head is off and... oh surprise, the gasket is perfect , I guess the answer for my over pressurized coolant system is on the LS, we will know tomorrow.

I do have a lot of black gunk on pistons and valves, a lot of cleaning in perspective, I will post pics later.

Two questions about valve covers: there are some metal plates screwed to the inside top of the covers (baffles ?), what are they for ? and also, will letting the cover breathers disconnected from the air intake will cause me any ecu troubles (obviously closing the connection ports on air intake and routing covers breathers thru adequate size hose to the lower part of engine bay (pavement) ?

Cheers
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