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  #21  
Old January 1st, 2013, 07:28 PM
giftshopduane
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Chris luciano
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Just leave it the way it is, I don't think there is any great benefit to routing it out of the bay. You're not going to succeed at getting this motor to run any cleaner/better or find any gains in MPG except for babying the gas pedal. It's a pig, it will always be a pig. They run fat, they clog and foul everything. Its taken LR 40 years to finally change out of that crap ass setup of a bastardized Buick v8 into something relatively decent. BMW tried and got the ball rolling, Ford finally threw their junk in and it seems to be doing pretty well.

What's going on with the coolant system? How many miles? Does this engine tick? What's the oil pressure like? Flickering light? Misfires? What else is going on?
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  #22  
Old January 1st, 2013, 10:08 PM
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Julien Dalbin
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45,000 miles. Main problem is a constant coolant leak, when I fix it at some place, it will happen somewhere else, I have to top up deposit with one quarter every week.
I also get occasional rough idle and some codes P102, P0171, P0174, P1171, P1174, P1884.
All this convinced me it was time to do a big tune up. I have no particular sound as far as I know while engine's running, but I do ear the "water fall" sound when I first start it in the morning.
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  #23  
Old January 1st, 2013, 10:20 PM
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Jason England
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45,000 miles. Main problem is a constant coolant leak, when I fix it at some place, it will happen somewhere else, I have to top up deposit with one quarter every week.
I also get occasional rough idle and some codes P102, P0171, P0174, P1171, P1174, P1884.
All this convinced me it was time to do a big tune up. I have no particular sound as far as I know while engine's running, but I do ear the "water fall" sound when I first start it in the morning.
Did you pressure test the system?
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Soapy water / KY jelly, etc. is is basically a must. Yes, good idea to remove trim panels - only takes 5 more minutes to do so.
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  #24  
Old January 2nd, 2013, 06:11 AM
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Julien Dalbin
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No, that was going to be my next move, but then came Holydays and some days off and I decided to wrench down that bloody thing.
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  #25  
Old January 2nd, 2013, 09:44 AM
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Julien Dalbin
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I have those seals and gaskets from an old HG kit and I have no clue about where they go. Anyone ?
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  #26  
Old January 4th, 2013, 01:37 PM
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Julien Dalbin
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Left head is off, real pita. The HG looks ok, unless that could be enough to cause troubles ( bottom side of gasket, back part close to coolant pass):
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  #27  
Old January 4th, 2013, 01:43 PM
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Russell
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JFD View Post
Left head is off, real pita. The HG looks ok, unless that could be enough to cause troubles ( bottom side of gasket, back part close to coolant pass):
$60 for a new OEM, it is a cheap part to replace: http://www.ebay.com/itm/LAND-ROVER-D...-/250912846799
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  #28  
Old January 4th, 2013, 07:58 PM
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Julien Dalbin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by down_shift View Post

$60 for a new OEM, it is a cheap part to replace: http://www.ebay.com/itm/LAND-ROVER-D...-/250912846799
Tdi's done, I'm working on V8 now. The head gasket is not expensive per se, but it's time consuming.
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  #29  
Old January 5th, 2013, 12:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JFD View Post

Tdi's done, I'm working on V8 now. The head gasket is not expensive per se, but it's time consuming.
Have you measured the head for warping using a straight edge and a feeler?
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  #30  
Old January 6th, 2013, 08:12 AM
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Julien Dalbin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonoronos View Post

Have you measured the head for warping using a straight edge and a feeler?
Those thing have so much gunk on them that you have to spend hours cleaning just to see clearly if they're not warped, cracked, nicked or bent. So far, right head seems to be ok.
I do you know if your valve guides are ok ? freeplay ?
What about valve seats ? light test ?
Bought an inexpensive overhead valve spring compressor and it's working fine. I guess you have to tag valves before keeping them away so they'll fit in the same spot.
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  #31  
Old January 8th, 2013, 11:28 AM
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Julien Dalbin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonoronos View Post

Have you measured the head for warping using a straight edge and a feeler?
Heads are straight and gaskets not blown, but worn. How can I check block for tiny cracks behind sleeves ?
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  #32  
Old January 8th, 2013, 10:27 PM
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Jason England
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Originally Posted by JFD View Post

Heads are straight and gaskets not blown, but worn. How can I check block for tiny cracks behind sleeves ?
Don't they use engineers blue for this?

At least that's what I did back in my school days.
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Soapy water / KY jelly, etc. is is basically a must. Yes, good idea to remove trim panels - only takes 5 more minutes to do so.
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  #33  
Old January 9th, 2013, 06:56 AM
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Julien Dalbin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leastonce View Post
Don't they use engineers blue for this?

At least that's what I did back in my school days.
As you mentioned earlier I think I have to pressure test the coolant circulation part of the block, filling it with water, closing all 4 openings and putting it under air pressure.
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  #34  
Old January 9th, 2013, 08:57 AM
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Jason England
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As you mentioned earlier I think I have to pressure test the coolant circulation part of the block, filling it with water, closing all 4 openings and putting it under air pressure.
i pressure test the coolant system using one of those pumps that goes on the expansion filler thingy ... when all the engine is together. you can borrow one from autozone for free ... well for a deposit .... i kept mine because the deposit was cheaper than buying one! ;-)
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Soapy water / KY jelly, etc. is is basically a must. Yes, good idea to remove trim panels - only takes 5 more minutes to do so.
Car Camping Collective founding member and Chief Executive Officer
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  #35  
Old January 10th, 2013, 12:50 PM
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Julien Dalbin
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Quote:
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i pressure test the coolant system using one of those pumps that goes on the expansion filler thingy
Yes, but if it shows a coolant leak it can be anywhere in the coolant circuit. Pressurizing the block is supposed to be the infallible method for detection of cracked behind sleeves.
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  #36  
Old January 15th, 2013, 05:14 PM
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chris
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1st question was or did the truck overheat? If so how bad?

also there is really no way to tell if the sleeve is cracked unless you magnaflux it and even then those cracks will not show up.

this is i very common problem i deal with on a weekly basis its a bad spot to be in
if it wasn’t overheating and just weeping re install the heads . those codes your getting is from a bad MAF and air filter housing not sealed correctly
your not getting misfire codes so there’s no coolant in the combustion chamber
the gurgling sound you hear is the coolant system not properly bled and theres air trapped in the matrix ..or you have a clogged matrix itself.
since its a 03 by then the porus castings have diminished
hope this helps a bit any ?s dont hesitate to contact me
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  #37  
Old January 15th, 2013, 07:19 PM
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Julien Dalbin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rovertek View Post
1st question was or did the truck overheat? If so how bad?

also there is really no way to tell if the sleeve is cracked unless you magnaflux it and even then those cracks will not show up.

this is i very common problem i deal with on a weekly basis its a bad spot to be in
if it wasn’t overheating and just weeping re install the heads . those codes your getting is from a bad MAF and air filter housing not sealed correctly
your not getting misfire codes so there’s no coolant in the combustion chamber
the gurgling sound you hear is the coolant system not properly bled and theres air trapped in the matrix ..or you have a clogged matrix itself.
since its a 03 by then the porus castings have diminished
hope this helps a bit any ?s dont hesitate to contact me
Thanks, great advices.
The truck did overheat once, a year or so ago, nothing serious, I think it was a faulty/broke filler screw (small one on the radiator top hose).
After that no overheat under regular use but constant coolant leaks.
Air box cover is indeed broke at several corners, got a new one from RoversNorth.
I have both heads off now, gaskets are not that bad. I'm doing a major cleaning, degreasing everything, hopefully I'll start to put it back together this week end.
I'm fixing wiring harness also, most of the sleeving is falling in pieces.
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  #38  
Old January 15th, 2013, 07:40 PM
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chris
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Make sure you put some oil in the cylinders before you start it also chase all the threads for the head bolts and blow them clean.....
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  #39  
Old January 16th, 2013, 06:50 AM
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Julien Dalbin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rovertek View Post
Make sure you put some oil in the cylinders before you start it.
Oil the cylinder's walls before putting head back on?
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  #40  
Old January 16th, 2013, 09:00 AM
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chris
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Yes when you decarbon the pistons all that parts cleaner works its way into the ring grooves when it drys the rings get stuck in the piston and then you'll put it all together and have no compression when you first go to fire it over...lets just say over the 15+ yrs working in the dealer I've done a mind boggling amount of heads and engine reseals......
Oil the walls and leave approx 5ml in the cylinder you'll be fine
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