V8 Engine Oil - Synthetic vs Semi Synthetic - Defender Source
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View Poll Results: What type of engine oil do you use?
Synthetic 37 50.00%
Semi-synthetic 8 10.81%
Mineral 24 32.43%
Whatever I can find... 5 6.76%
Voters: 74. You may not vote on this poll

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  #1  
Old May 16th, 2004, 01:31 PM
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Nick Taylor
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V8 Engine Oil - Synthetic vs Semi Synthetic

I was reading the "end of the Rover V8" article in the Spring 2004 LROI. They have an interview/article with Chris Crane from RPi Engineering, who's been working with these engines for 20 years.

The part I read with interest is this part:

"As for the best oil to use, that's a difficult one. 'The clearances and tolerences are exactly the same as on the original Buick Skylark engine: the tappets are still hydraulic and they definitly do not want fully synthetic oil. The oil is too skinny when it's cold.

'When you start it up with a fully synthetic oil, you're going to have a lot more valve-train clearance during the initial, important start-up period.'

Semi-synthetics may be okay, but Chris's preference is for something like Valvoline 20/50, because the detergent quality is good. Other quality 20/50 oils should be fine too.

'The other reason for using 20/50 is that it's what the engine was designed to run on, with its clearances and hydraulic tappets. There's no disadvantage with 20/50 oils for a road car, because it doesn't need the rapid warm-up period that a race car or TVR would want,' says Chris.

---
Interesting. So what do you think? I've always run synthetic oils in both the diesels and V8, but maybe I should be looking at using something less complex than the modern synthetics. Obviously, as usual, the frequency of oil changes probably has more bearing on what oil you use, when using quality oils anyway.

Any thoughts?
Cheers,
Nick.
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  #2  
Old January 15th, 2012, 01:10 PM
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I'd like to hear people opinion about this.
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  #3  
Old January 15th, 2012, 01:17 PM
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peter
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I hear alot of people run rotella, I run amosil.
Interesting find though.
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  #4  
Old January 15th, 2012, 01:18 PM
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What rotella is best for a d110 3.9 converted to a 4.2 with slightly hotter cam ported and polished?
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  #5  
Old January 15th, 2012, 02:25 PM
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So I've spent almost all day reading all sorts of opinions about the best oils to run in these defender gas engines with flat tappets. After everything I've read I feel that the best oil to run in them is:

Mobil 1 High Mileage 10W-40

It has the engine cleaning efficiency of a good synthetic, meets A3/B3, A3/B4, SN, SM, SL and has a HTHS of 3.9 which exceeds the 3.5 recommended performance for flat tappet style engines. Anyone want to call BS on this or do you think its a good oil to run in a new 4000 mile 3.9 converted to 4.2 engine?

Cheers
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  #6  
Old January 15th, 2012, 05:48 PM
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Mobil 10w40 is really good, I used it for a number of years, it looks really good on paper. I am now using Amsoil 10w40 it has a high zinc package which is nice. Its cheaper than the Mobil if you buy a case. They have taken a lot of of the additives out of the rotella that made it ideal for the RV8
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  #7  
Old January 15th, 2012, 07:16 PM
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Eric Lindstrom
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Just switched from Mobil 1 synthetic to Rotella T
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  #8  
Old January 15th, 2012, 08:46 PM
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I have allways used mobil 1 or castrol full synthetic, the blends as explained to me by an instructor in an automotive class for technicians, are not regulated so brand "a" may have a 50/50 blend while brand "b" may have less of the ideal 50%... in that regard, he explained rather than use a market blend, the user would be better off using regular oil and a synthetic additive of their choice.
sometime ago I spent a little over 2 yrs overhauling eaton, rockwell and mack heavy duty drivetrain components, the ones which used non synthetic oils would come in with failures due to fatigue caused by improper lubrication during times of stress which on a heavy duty truck component is constant, normal failure at 150,000 miles or less.
the units which had used synthetic lubricants would last well into 500,000 miles and the components would show a very even and unstressed wear pattern.
I know this post will give rise to a huge controversy on syntec vrs. regular, the findings and results I post are based on my personal unbiased non scientific findings not what an article may print.
so to each their own.
based on personal experience, I can tell you my 78 911 turbo did not like synthetic, it would burn it at an alarming rate specially when flogged, but my 88 944 turbo loved it.
my current 97 honda has used synthetic since new and at 150,000 miles has never needed a single valve lash adjustment and runs very quiet. my 95 classic received a custom built 4.6 4 yrs and 60k miles ago, nothing but synthetic no leaks so far and still giving me 14 to 16 mpg, while my friend begun using synthetic on his 04 d2 and his 40k mile engine begun to develop accelerated wear to the point of engine failure.. coincidence maybe.
I still use it and reccomend it.
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  #9  
Old January 15th, 2012, 09:31 PM
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Say what you will about dino oil being better, but you could eat off the inside of my LWB which has 190k and has been run on full synthetic since ~30k.
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  #10  
Old January 15th, 2012, 09:56 PM
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Bob Vogler
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I'm with evilfij on this one. My one-owner '95 D90 has had nothing but high-end synthetic oil (mostly Amsoil, but sometimes Redline or Royal Purple) since its first oil change. It has nearly 300,000 miles and other than changing the water pump a few years ago, I have had zero issues with the engine. It doesn't burn any oil, and runs great. I recently switched exclusively to non-ethanol gasoline, and now it runs even better, along with getting a couple more MPG's.

According to the experts, the most effective synthetics are the "esther-based" ones such as the three I mentioned (of course, they're also the most expensive) rather than the "wax-based" synthetics which includes most of the others. Additionally, the high-end oils also include the zinc package that rover4x4 mentioned.
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  #11  
Old January 15th, 2012, 11:29 PM
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Im happy with Amsoil oil and filter for my trucks and also Amsoil oil to my 11 year old pontoon boat.

Sal
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  #12  
Old January 16th, 2012, 12:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2411D90 View Post
I recently switched exclusively to non-ethanol gasoline, and now it runs even better, along with getting a couple more MPG's.
Curious, where are you getting non-ethanol gas from? My understanding is its not really available anymore. I just went through this with our local marina gas for my boat this summer, and they said with the EPA crackdowns you can't get non-ethanol.
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  #13  
Old January 16th, 2012, 12:23 AM
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This site shows ethanol-free gas availability by state:

http://pure-gas.org/index.jsp?stateprov=WA
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  #14  
Old January 16th, 2012, 12:24 AM
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Wait a minute...I think I change my mind on the best oil money can buy for these land rover 93 d-110 v8 engines. Who wants to agree that Redline 10w-40 is the best? I got turned off by Mobile 1 and similar API certified oils because of the lack of additives needed for the flat tappet style engines. Anyone believe that Redline is harder on seals or is that a myth?

Read this:
http://www.ttalk.info/Zddp.htm

Redline Data:
http://www.redlineoil.com/content/fi...uct%20Data.pdf
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  #15  
Old January 16th, 2012, 12:25 AM
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Sort of related question...do the newer 2006+ LR3 motors have flat tappets?

------ Follow up post added January 16th, 2012 12:28 AM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by 2411D90 View Post
This site shows ethanol-free gas availability by state:

http://pure-gas.org/index.jsp?stateprov=WA
Nice...but unfortunately checked VA and there's literally nothing in our area. Bummer.
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  #16  
Old January 16th, 2012, 06:12 AM
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I have an original owner 95 D90 with 100k on the clock. I have run nothing but synthetic in it since new, either Mobil 1 10-40 or Castrol 5-50. At 100k, only engine work has been a new water pump and new throttle position sensor. I started adding a ZDDP additive a few years ago.
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  #17  
Old January 16th, 2012, 08:14 AM
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Don't over think it, the Mobil 10w40 is just about perfect for the RV8, the Amsoil is perfect. If you want a non synthetic valvoline VR1 is a good choice. Use redline in your transmission

The failure on the 04 DII is likely unrelated to the oil that was being used, the new rovers use Jaguar engines most likely has a roller valvetrain. 2004 was the last year for the might RV8
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  #18  
Old January 16th, 2012, 09:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rocketman View Post
I have an original owner 95 D90 with 100k on the clock. I have run nothing but synthetic in it since new, either Mobil 1 10-40 or Castrol 5-50. At 100k, only engine work has been a new water pump and new throttle position sensor. I started adding a ZDDP additive a few years ago.
Where do you get your ZDDP additive from and what brand do you use?
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  #19  
Old January 16th, 2012, 10:13 AM
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Speedshops, summit or jegs or you can buy an oil with a zinc package already in it.
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  #20  
Old January 16th, 2012, 10:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rover4x4 View Post
Don't over think it, the Mobil 10w40 is just about perfect for the RV8, the Amsoil is perfect. If you want a non synthetic valvoline VR1 is a good choice. Use redline in your transmission

The failure on the 04 DII is likely unrelated to the oil that was being used, the new rovers use Jaguar engines most likely has a roller valvetrain. 2004 was the last year for the might RV8
When you guys say 10W40 you are referring to the Mobil 1 High Mileage 10W-40. This contains the seal conditioner and the "extra anti-wear additive". Do you think the seal conditioner is perhaps not advised on a bran new motor? A Mobil 1 rep says it doesn't matter. He also recommends the 0W-40 over the 10W-40 as it is no thinner then the 10W-40 but provides great start up protection in cold environments. He said that it too contains the same levels of anti wear additives as the High Mileage 10W-40. The issue I have is that they will not tell you an exact value so you don't know if it's an adequate amount or not.

The Redline oil seems to have none of these compromises as it doesn't even try to comply with the API standards that are limiting these anti wear agents. It has the highest levels of anti-wear agent that was originally expected for our engines. Why deal with additives when you can get the oil that has the balanced level out of the bottle?
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