V8 Engine Oil - Synthetic vs Semi Synthetic - Page 3 - Defender Source
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View Poll Results: What type of engine oil do you use?
Synthetic 37 50.00%
Semi-synthetic 8 10.81%
Mineral 24 32.43%
Whatever I can find... 5 6.76%
Voters: 74. You may not vote on this poll

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  #41  
Old January 18th, 2012, 01:59 PM
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Makes sense they are still heavy as your engine seemed to have a lot of gunk.
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  #42  
Old January 18th, 2012, 03:42 PM
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Alaskan RR/Classic SWB 3.9 Rotella Trip T Experience

Hello, I just wanted to add my own experience with running Rotella Dino Triple T White Jug versus Rotella Synthetic Blue Jug. I have been running Rotella Dino for 2 years and I immediatly noticed an increase in compression, I live on the side of a mountain , here in Anchorage. We often get below zero in the winter, so I wanted to try the Synthetic. well I did, immediately I noticed a huge loss in Engine Power, the motor was louder, valvetrain noise etc. overall I changed back within 2 days. I park outside and have a block heater, battery blanket in addtion to an Oil Pan heater. i let the Rig warm up for about 20 min in the morning and off I go. I have approx 125,000 miles on the Motor and notice that the Oil is black by the time I go to change it at 2500 miles or so. I had the Oil analyzed at Blackstone labs and they gave it a major thumbs up! I am thinking that the High detergent and the fact that it has ZDDP as well as being an Old Style motor and that Rover V-8's run dirty to begin with. I respect that every body has their opinion of what works for them as such. Could My Rover use new Valve Cover Gaskets, yes, does it need new Exhaust manifold gaskets, yes,but I tighten them down every so often. My Rig is lifted, running 265/75/16 BFG's , with Flowmaster Exhaust and it runs really smooth when I ran the Rotella Synthetic the engine was so low on power and noisy, I was getting really concerned. So the 15W40 works really well for me year round...Thanks for allowing me to reply, disregard the Shell Sticker, I don't work for them.

Tony
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  #43  
Old January 18th, 2012, 03:50 PM
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Tony:

Nice post, thanks for passing it along. So you're not adding any ZDDP to the Rotella white jug, correct? Just the inherent ZDDP that is in the oil itself?
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  #44  
Old January 18th, 2012, 03:58 PM
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No addtl ZDDP added

No I am not adding any additional ZDDP. I actually have 2 RR Classics and run Rotella Triple T in both of them. I see the advantages and researched and came across the -25 below F Pour rating etc. overall the driving that I do, and the Alaska climate as well as climbing a Mountain year round, I will not change over. to be honest the only downside is that the 02 Sensors or Cats may not last for ever, but way cheaper than an engine rebuild. Just my 2 cents.

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  #45  
Old January 18th, 2012, 04:11 PM
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Cool...I likewise already run Rotella in every "older" car I have...but likewise don't add ZDDP so was curious if your tests were with or without an additive. But I'm a Rotella 15W40 fan already...
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  #46  
Old January 18th, 2012, 04:15 PM
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Backing Tony on the Rotella T White Jug. Oil pressue is slightly higher now and more consistent between warm up and operating temp. My only complaint is that I cant find it in QTS. So I have to do 4 oil changes before I only have to buy 1 Jug. That is ~ 2 years for me.
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  #47  
Old January 18th, 2012, 05:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RANGEROVERSURFER View Post
to be honest the only downside is that the 02 Sensors or Cats may not last for ever,

Tony, thanks for sharing your experience. What do you mean by the phrase above?
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  #48  
Old January 18th, 2012, 05:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RANGEROVERSURFER View Post
No I am not adding any additional ZDDP. I actually have 2 RR Classics and run Rotella Triple T in both of them. I see the advantages and researched and came across the -25 below F Pour rating etc. overall the driving that I do, and the Alaska climate as well as climbing a Mountain year round, I will not change over. to be honest the only downside is that the 02 Sensors or Cats may not last for ever, but way cheaper than an engine rebuild. Just my 2 cents.

Thanks,

Tony
Ps - any idea of the actual ZDDP count in Rotella? Did the tests you had done state this?
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  #49  
Old January 18th, 2012, 06:41 PM
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Good Point / retest in order Oil Analysis

You bring up a very good point, Thanks I will have both Rigs Oil retested in the future sometime and have a complete analysis of the Oil specifically requesting the Oil be tested for ZDDP content. I was going to order the additive from British Pacific Ltd in CA, they carry some, made by Redline. I am actually doing a restoration on the 1990 SWB RR Classic Eastnor Green. I will be posting a Thread on the LRR Forum soon. They test for various metals , etc. I will find the Analysis results and post the numbers, maybe it will help.

Thanks,

Tony
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  #50  
Old January 18th, 2012, 06:56 PM
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I've heard that the current ZDDP for Rotella is in the 1100ppm range, down from the 1400-1500ppm it used to be. But would be curious to know for sure.
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  #51  
Old January 18th, 2012, 08:02 PM
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I think its even less due to the new clean diesel technology. I talked to a guy that works for a rental company and he was told by manufacturers. Not to use CJ4 rated oils in hydraulic systems. They previously used rotella.
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  #52  
Old February 5th, 2012, 01:29 AM
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Oil Analysis Update

I located the Oil Report. Zinc is showing at 853 PPM / Phosphorus 823 PPM / Boron 37 PPM / Calcium 1953. At some point in the future I will start using a Zinc additive and have the Oil sample tested to confirm the Higher ZDDP Content. But at this Point I am still very satisfied with Rotella White Triple T and will continue using it. next year I will have the Engine Rebuilt and will share my findings with D-90. It will be interesting to see if there is an excessive amount of sludge build-up and wear.

Thanks,

Tony
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  #53  
Old January 19th, 2013, 08:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij View Post
Say what you will about dino oil being better, but you could eat off the inside of my LWB which has 190k and has been run on full synthetic since ~30k.
Which brand and viscosity synthetic do you use in your D90?
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  #54  
Old January 19th, 2013, 12:00 PM
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If you want the best AMSOIL 10w40.
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  #55  
Old January 19th, 2013, 12:22 PM
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Rotella Triple T 15-40, been using this in my 96 D1 for seven years and the insides of the rocker covers are cleaner than when I got it.

Also my 200tdi 90 runs with it in.

tractorsupply $60 for 5g

Dont need no zinc it has it.
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  #56  
Old January 19th, 2013, 12:28 PM
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I use whatevers the cheapest to buy at Walmart since I have to change oil on 3 Defenders. Since Walmart sells Mobil1 10w-40 full synthetic in 5 quart jugs for like 26 bucks, I buy that. I don't go to costco to buy mobil1 anymore because they still sell it in quarts, Cheaper to buy in the larger bottle.
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  #57  
Old January 19th, 2013, 12:34 PM
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Used Mobil1 on my D1's engine. While the insides may have looked good it didn't do anything to prolong the engine's life. Cruelly cut short at 155kmiles due to slipped liner.
My two DD's get semi synthetic and alls well (combined mileage 245,000 miles)
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  #58  
Old January 19th, 2013, 01:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roverman2010 View Post
Rotella Triple T 15-40, been using this in my 96 D1 for seven years and the insides of the rocker covers are cleaner than when I got it.

Also my 200tdi 90 runs with it in.

tractorsupply $60 for 5g

Dont need no zinc it has it.
Actually is doesnt and I am not going down this road.
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  #59  
Old January 19th, 2013, 03:52 PM
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Why zinc and not moly? Doesn't moly have superior dry friction and pressure resistance characteristics
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  #60  
Old January 19th, 2013, 05:36 PM
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What do people use on Rover V8s for pre-change engine flush?

I've used Motul primarily and occasionally Amsoil. Motul seems to flush a bit more. Any others out there worth considering?
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