V8 Engine Oil - Synthetic vs Semi Synthetic - Page 2 - Defender Source
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View Poll Results: What type of engine oil do you use?
Synthetic 37 50.00%
Semi-synthetic 8 10.81%
Mineral 24 32.43%
Whatever I can find... 5 6.76%
Voters: 74. You may not vote on this poll

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  #21  
Old January 16th, 2012, 09:39 AM
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Yes the high mileage. The Amsoil has around 1400ppm zinc, they recently released the zrod series which is around 1450 1500 ppm. I don't know much about the redline other than the MTL gearlube.

It doesn't matter how high of a shear rating or zinc an oil has if you don't change it.
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  #22  
Old January 16th, 2012, 09:46 AM
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Well I guess it has been some time since our last oil discussion.
I enjoy a good oil talk especially since I have a new engine. The LR mechanic that did my 4.6 conversion said to use only Castrol 10W-30 dino. He believes in regular oil change intervals, and dino does not adversely effect the rear-main seals Rover uses.

By far the most detailed and exhausted site dedicated to oil is:
click here---> Bob is the Oil Guy
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  #23  
Old January 16th, 2012, 09:47 AM
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Well clearly we are all meticulous about changing oils. Proper shear value is worthless without the anti-wear packages. Any reason why someone thinks that redline oil will cause more oil leaks then the Mobil 1 or even conventional oil? Why would Dino oil keep the rear main seal healthier then synthetic stuff? I'd like to hear the experts on here hash all of the out.
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  #24  
Old January 16th, 2012, 11:40 AM
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There are no experts on here. Search all of this has been debated. Search on the discoweb there was some scientific discussion on this a while back.

I find that people switch to a synthetic expecting them to be a miracle product. My engine stopped leaking when I went to the Mobil 10w40 HM. If you have a newly built engine why would yo7 be worried about the rear main or cross seals? How much does the engine leak?

Conventional oil is fine, I maintain a RRC with 220k original cam and bottom end, it leaks a little but is fine. It spent most of its life on 10w40 castrol but last 5 years has been using rotella. Just change it often and use quality filters.
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  #25  
Old January 16th, 2012, 11:49 AM
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So wouldn't adding ZDDP to everyone's favorite anti-sludge Mobil 0w40 be the ticket? Royal purple also has their HPS line, which as incr zinc that is big among the 50s/60s muscle car guys for flat tappet engines.
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  #26  
Old January 16th, 2012, 11:53 AM
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Has anyone successfully run RedLine in an older Land Rover for years without issues, leaks etc?
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  #27  
Old January 16th, 2012, 12:53 PM
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Why would you pay 9-10$ for a quart of oil then pay 10-15 for a bottle of juice to dump in it
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  #28  
Old January 16th, 2012, 06:39 PM
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Not trying to start a pissing match w/ you but Mobil 1 0w40 can be had for $8/quart, and the additives i've seen $8 will treat 12 quarts. Buick nailheads are notorious sludgebuilders, so replacing the zinc-phosphate that Mobil 1 removed to meet API (to prevent hurting the cats) seems like improving an already near perfect product for this application.
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  #29  
Old January 16th, 2012, 06:57 PM
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Additives of any kind are stupid. Guys seriously who gives a crap about price of oil! If you can afford to fill your rover with gas, you can treat your rover to the best oil made every 3000 miles. So in the arguments of this thread leave price out of it...get down to the facts. So far I proclaim that the best oil in the world for a rover V8 is RedLine 0W-40....at least on paper.
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  #30  
Old January 16th, 2012, 07:14 PM
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Well run it for 100k then pull the cam and valve covers and report back.
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  #31  
Old January 16th, 2012, 07:23 PM
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Will do. Honestly we are likely splitting hairs here between two good synthetics. I just feel that the Redline is more focused to our needs. I'm surprised that this didn't start world war three.
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  #32  
Old January 16th, 2012, 09:59 PM
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I bought my 90 with 38000 miles on it. I ran Rotella 15-40 in it up till about 65,000 with out a hitch. When someone talked me into synthetic. One oil change interval I switched back to Rotella. With the Rotella I never had to add oil between changes. with the synthetic I lost a quart before the oil was due for a change. Has been fine ever since I swithched back. I run synthectic in my new 6.7 Powerstroke and the BMW cycles and could not be happier. But not in the Defender or the Disco .
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  #33  
Old January 16th, 2012, 10:25 PM
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How about the interval? Amosil says its good for a year, or 15k or whatever it is. I usually like 5k with synthetics and always 3k with Dino.

Alot of the 3k interval was due to the quality of oil I thought.

I guess everyone has their opinions.
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  #34  
Old January 16th, 2012, 10:35 PM
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Likewise 3k Dino, 5k Synthetics here.
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  #35  
Old January 17th, 2012, 08:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Broncoduecer View Post
How about the interval? Amosil says its good for a year, or 15k or whatever it is. I usually like 5k with synthetics and always 3k with Dino.

Alot of the 3k interval was due to the quality of oil I thought.

I guess everyone has their opinions.

I am sure the oil is good for the 15k, my worry has always been the filter....
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  #36  
Old January 17th, 2012, 08:55 AM
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Based on searches I've done here and some various readings over the years I use Mobil 1 0W-40.

Besides the properties of the oil used which is obviously very important, from my limited KB it seems these V8's can get "dirty" pretty easily so starting with getting the internals as clean as possible for a baseline and keeping them clean might be just as important as which oil you are going to run.

I've adapted the a Ron/evilfij tip of swapping filters every 500-1,000 miles. It seems the Mobil 1 likes to "clean" as the oil doesn't stay light golden brown for too long for me but swapping the filter (and the needed quart) keeps it from going black. Then I'll do a complete swap every 3k-5k. For me the 90 doesn't put on as many miles so depending on road trips I usually go by timeframe.

Another Ron/evilfij tip was to do the rear cross seals: http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...ead.php?t=2052 This might also help in people that have leaks when going to synthetic? Mines been dry for the past 2 years (other than some pesky leak from the tranny that makes a mess all over).

I posted up 2 years ago (damn, time flies) about sludge and my search for getting the internals clean to start with: http://www.defendersource.com/forum/showthread.php?t=24122




------ Follow up post added January 17th, 2012 10:01 AM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by 97-D90-736 View Post
I am sure the oil is good for the 15k, my worry has always been the filter....
So to add to the discussion - which filter works best? I mostly use NAPA Gold 1068 as I can get a couple when I go to NAPA to pick up the Mobil 1. But doing it every 1,000 as mentioned above does it really matter?
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  #37  
Old January 17th, 2012, 06:00 PM
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I like the Napa 1452, its a little bigger than the 1068, I can get a little over a quart in it
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  #38  
Old January 17th, 2012, 07:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rover4x4 View Post
I like the Napa 1452, its a little bigger than the 1068, I can get a little over a quart in it
I tried a 1452 before but the price was close to twice the 1068 (edit: $12.49 vs. $6.49 according to napaonline). Since I am swapping filters a little more frequently I figure the 1068 would be a better move for me. But agree the 1452 is certainly bigger/more volume - the specs between the 2 look very similiar otherwise.
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  #39  
Old January 17th, 2012, 08:32 PM
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As far as filters, I stuck with genuine land rover until I ran out and then went to motorcraft FL1a which is what rover told us to use when filters went on backorder. Relatively cheap, easy to find, and seems to do a good job. Napa, Wix etc. should be fine, just make sure it has the anti-drainback valve or whatever it is called.

I am glad you liked my tips. The quick filter changes were only when switching to synthetic and the gunk is getting flushed out. After that, no real reason to keep up the quick changes on them unless they are heavy when removed.
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  #40  
Old January 18th, 2012, 11:15 AM
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Both the 1452 and 1068 have a "Silicon Anti-Drain Back Valve" according to napaonline

I do enjoy the tips - they make sense to me and I know you've been around Rovers (and vehicles) for a long time so for me it is easily worth a shot. I am still doing the quick filter changes as the filters are still pretty heavy. There hasn't been a lot of miles on my 90 over the past year due to fixing things and less road/4x4 trips.
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