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  #1  
Old March 9th, 2005, 03:44 PM
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Christian Shea
1997 Defender 90 Wagon
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Used 90 Purchase and Transport

Sorry for all the new threads lately, sort of looking for lots of specific info, this being no different. I am about to purchase a 90 from colorado in the denver area and drive it back to Atlanta. I have looked at both DMV sites and the information is hard to sift through. I realize all states are different but was hoping that some of you guys could point me in the right direction and/or share your experiences. I am mostly concerned with what documents I need from the seller, what happens to the plates, how I drive back on a newly purchased car, etc, etc. Thanks in advance
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  #2  
Old March 9th, 2005, 04:02 PM
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Jason Habbal
1997 Defender 90 #1104
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Get that documented service book from the seller. I have come to find out that most people want to make sure the rover has been serviced at the required times. I know that was the first thing i looked for in the vehicle when i wanted to buy mine......
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  #3  
Old March 9th, 2005, 04:12 PM
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Phil
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You need to leave with a Bill of Sale and current registration. If you have those two things you'll be fine, even if you get stopped on the way home. If he has the title, you'll want that as well but if the bank has it, no big deal. As for the plates, that's between you and the seller. When I bought my 90 out of Wisconsin, the seller said the plates stay with the owner so he left them on the vehicle but asked me to send them back when I got home. No problems. I just hope you don't get bent over by the motor veh bureau in your state for sales tax like I did. Find out if your state charges sales tax on a used veh purchased out of state. If they do, you and the seller might want to work something out about what sales price gets written on the title.
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  #4  
Old March 9th, 2005, 05:32 PM
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I've driven coast to coast in a newly purchased D90. I obtained a bill of sale from the seller (via overnight mail), took it to the DMV and got temp plates and a temp reg. Got on plane, picked up truck with title and screwed the plate on. Drove over 3000 miles home with no problems.

Good luck.
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  #5  
Old March 9th, 2005, 10:47 PM
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David Shechter
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Another option is to buy it in CO, go to the DMV and get a "in-transit" plate. It should be good for 30 days. Check your state laws on the tax issue, I think most if not all, what you to pay the tax in the state you register it in. If you end up paying the tax in another state and that states tax is less than your state, your state may want you to make up the difference. i.e. if CO tax is 6% and GA tax is 7.5%, you pay the 6% in CO, when you go to register in GA, GA might ask you to pay the extra 1.5%. Hope that all makes sense.
You may want to think twice about driving a truck you have no experience with 2000 miles home. Congrats on the purchase and good luck with it all.
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  #6  
Old March 10th, 2005, 10:46 AM
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I bought a truck out of state once and flew up to get it. I brought along a Georgia plate off another Land Rover I had just sold. I figured any plate was better than no plate. So I put the plate on the truck in New Jersey and drove it back home. Ended up leaving the old GA plate on the truck until tag time came around, then took the title and proof of insurance to my local DMV and got my new tag.

No one asked me about sales tax, bill of sale, anything. But you live in Atlanta and have to deal with emissions tests and all, so your experience may be different.

Heed the advise about sales tax and make sure your bill of sale shows a trade allowance to net zero or something or else you may get busted for sales tax in your county. Again, I showed up with the title to my 90 (transfered from Copley Motor Cars with my name and info written in pen on the back) and proof of insurance in Muscogee Co. Georgia, and walked out with my new tag for $25.

If your concern is chiefly getting back to Georgia from Colorado without getting hassled by the Fuzz, get a dealer temp plate or something indicating you've bought it recently. Good luck!!
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  #7  
Old March 10th, 2005, 11:55 AM
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Phil
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ronward
I bought a truck out of state once and flew up to get it. I brought along a Georgia plate off another Land Rover I had just sold. I figured any plate was better than no plate. So I put the plate on the truck in New Jersey and drove it back home. Ended up leaving the old GA plate on the truck until tag time came around, then took the title and proof of insurance to my local DMV and got my new tag
This is a very bad idea, unless you don't mind getting removed from your vehicle at gunpoint. That is exactly what would happen if a cop ran the plate and it came back to a different make or model.
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  #8  
Old March 10th, 2005, 01:29 PM
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Paul / Boultbee
1994 D-90, Green #1576
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I contacted my insurance company who told me what to do. I lived in NJ at it was no problem to get coverage and plate were gotten once I hit town. I also purchased a car in IL when living in MI. Again, insurance was the starting point. Had that first and YES I was stopped by Chicagos finest AND a MI state trooper. No tags on the car but with bill of sale, title and a letter (fax actually) of insurance it was not a problem.
Oh, and that is how I discovered that the Chicago - Detroit route is a top drug & car theft run.
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  #9  
Old March 10th, 2005, 08:12 PM
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David Shechter
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If you are buying it from a private seller, you can ask for a reciept showing you paid $6,000 or whatever. This way if you do have to pay the tax at least you won't get totally screwed. In CA the anual registration fee is based on the purchase price of he vehicle, I don't know about GA, but a low ball bill of sale could help in a situation like that too. One thing to be careful of, if you go too low of a purchase price they can (in CA) use a blue book price to adjust the tax. Happened to a friend of mine. Seems like they'll do anything to bleed you dry.
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  #10  
Old March 10th, 2005, 08:17 PM
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Phil
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The number that they use (for tax purposes) is the one written on the back of the title by the seller.
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  #11  
Old March 11th, 2005, 09:46 AM
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Jason Habbal
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If im not mistaken, you are correct on getting a low bill of sale. My buddy purchased an 85 K5 blazer and paid 7000 for it. He had the guy write down that he paid 3000 for it and that helped all his fees and everything.
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  #12  
Old March 11th, 2005, 10:46 AM
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Scott
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WCURoverD90
If im not mistaken, you are correct on getting a low bill of sale.
I think this depends on the state. Some use sale price, some use book value.
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  #13  
Old March 11th, 2005, 12:23 PM
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Paul / Boultbee
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It is a state by state issue. Two things come into play with it. Reasonable purchase price vs a made up number. On that, you have to be smart - i.e. do not claim a $10k on a 1997 in excellent condition. That is a red flag scenario. Having said that, what is much harder to get figured out is reasonable purchase. A D90 is an 11 to 8 year old car. Pricing models would therefore stipulate a 50 to 80% original price loss. Factor in damage due to off roading, outside parking, self installed extra that require fixing, and a D90 is worth 10 to 20% original value. Adding back on is market (poke poke at Copley) pricing, this site and others, and a 1994 D90 is in the $10 - 25k area. More than enough to play a margin.
When I bought KBB did not price the Defender, Edmonds.com did (but high) ...
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  #14  
Old March 11th, 2005, 10:39 PM
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Jon Strong
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I'd be real careful with this one, last time I went to the NJ DMV they had posters stating that they had prosecuted several people for esentially tax evasion.

JS
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  #15  
Old March 11th, 2005, 10:39 PM
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Van Der Waal
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paulb
It is a state by state issue. Two things come into play with it. Reasonable purchase price vs a made up number. On that, you have to be smart - i.e. do not claim a $10k on a 1997 in excellent condition. That is a red flag scenario. Having said that, what is much harder to get figured out is reasonable purchase. A D90 is an 11 to 8 year old car. Pricing models would therefore stipulate a 50 to 80% original price loss. Factor in damage due to off roading, outside parking, self installed extra that require fixing, and a D90 is worth 10 to 20% original value. Adding back on is market (poke poke at Copley) pricing, this site and others, and a 1994 D90 is in the $10 - 25k area. More than enough to play a margin.
When I bought KBB did not price the Defender, Edmonds.com did (but high) ...
LOL The CT DMV tried to look up the blue book price but was unable to, presumably due to the vehicle's rarity. Then when I said "Uhh... how about $14,000" they were like, wow, are you sure it was that much?? I could have said $4,000 and they would have believed it.
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  #16  
Old March 12th, 2005, 12:34 AM
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kevin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WCURoverD90
Get that documented service book from the seller. I have come to find out that most people want to make sure the rover has been serviced at the required times. I know that was the first thing i looked for in the vehicle when i wanted to buy mine......
What the heck is a documented service book? Is that somthing you take to the dealer when it is supposed to get serviced? The first thing I learned when I bought my first Rover was to stay as far away from the dealer as possible.
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  #17  
Old March 12th, 2005, 12:47 PM
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Jason Habbal
1997 Defender 90 #1104
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kelly i agree but i feel like "IF" i ever want to sell my land rover i want to make sure any angle someone looks at is covered. Other than that i run the other way from the stealerships...
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