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  #161  
Old March 24th, 2012, 10:16 PM
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Neill Thornton
1984 D90 300 Tdi / 1965 Series IIA
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I was hoping to get a pic of a stock 300 Tdi to compare to/emulate.
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  #162  
Old March 25th, 2012, 04:46 PM
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Mike Hammond
110 200Tdi and a 2005 Scorpa SY250
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From ECR site.
Google
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  #163  
Old March 25th, 2012, 04:51 PM
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Jason Lavender
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeslandrover View Post
From ECR site.
Google
Damn that's one clean motor!
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  #164  
Old March 25th, 2012, 04:59 PM
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Mike Hammond
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From one of their build-up photo sequences.
http://www.eastcoastrover.com/206.html
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Diesels.....great when they're going and so easy to work on.
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  #165  
Old March 25th, 2012, 08:18 PM
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Neill Thornton
1984 D90 300 Tdi / 1965 Series IIA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nathanwind

Damn that's one clean motor!
That's what mine looked like when I bought it last year.... But then the seller owned a bunch of car washes, so I suppose it's to be expected!
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  #166  
Old March 25th, 2012, 08:45 PM
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Originally Posted by navydevildoc View Post
That's what mine looked like when I bought it last year.... But then the seller owned a bunch of car washes, so I suppose it's to be expected!
Neill, did you get yours sorted?
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  #167  
Old March 25th, 2012, 08:54 PM
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Neill Thornton
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I will once I order the correct hoses. I have a new stock radiator and intercooler assembly to install, but I have to undo the hose mess that's there now. I also want to replace the timing belt since it has an unknown number of miles on it.

So once I get the hoses, it will be time to pull it all apart and make it happen!
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  #168  
Old June 11th, 2013, 05:56 AM
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overheating

i know this is a stale thread but for posterity and for other people wanting advise, i think it is good to chime in. in an earlier post you said you din not have a bleed screw in the top hose. it is there,that yellow thing in the elbow. Just out of curiosity, why did you have several hoses joined together anyway? that hump in that top hose was your air pocket, and was the reason you could not bleed the cooling system properly! that yellow plastic bleed screw is supposed to be the highest point in the cooling circuit. all air collects there and once you bleed it out, you are done. Like someone also sed, on an expedition vehicle, lose the e-fans and go with the factory spec one. Your life depends on it. for weekend blasts, do whatever you want, but not on an expedition/long trip. more gizmos are just an increase in the probability that something will go wrong.
Did you ever get the landie sorted out?

mike, kenya


Quote:
Originally Posted by navydevildoc View Post
Going to play devil's advocate on some of this...



When we pulled it all apart we flushed everything with the hose... the best we could do for the block/heads was run water from the heater supply hose back through, and it didn't have any problem flowing out of the water pump housing.

Also, my top hose does not have a bleed screw.



Similar answer to above, we flushed all sorts of stuff, and if it's coolant flow, why does it work great for hours on the freeway at high speed, then explode when at idle?



The first time it overheated I turned the fan on immediately and it was hot. Haven't replaced the water pump yet as all the parts are going to be special order and overnighted from somewhere at a price to match.

The expansion cap is an interesting suggestion. We ran it for a long time with no cap on, and then test drove it last night with it on but loose. No joy, still overheated. What would the cap have to do with it?

------ Follow up post added July 18th, 2011 08:08 AM ------

Mark, thanks man... yeah it sucks. Good news is that Cerrone's European, the sponsors of the LRR Forum, are about 20 minutes away. They might be able to pressure test it. I am going to call them, as well as Rovers North to see how fast I can get a head gasket kit.
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