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  #141  
Old August 6th, 2011, 11:11 AM
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I have that part used that the stud came out of. Did not know you were experiencing a problem with this as well as your other issues. I would have offered it up sooner to see you get on your way.

Am happy to see the spirit that you all took while facing your numerous obstacles.

But in my mind it serves as a lesson to stay away from an eleltric cooling fan. As well as the need for a numeric temperature guage and an EGT guage to monitor things.

In fact, am considering adding a coolant resevoir level warning sender and dash light to help with situations like yours in my installations. Have added a couple later on and it seems to help keep things honest before tragedy strikes.

Hope you decide to sort things out and get your rig in tip top shape for your next adventure. Carry On!
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  #142  
Old August 6th, 2011, 11:42 AM
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Neill Thornton
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All,

Thanks for the kind words of encouragement.

I also want to publicly say THANK YOU to LAND ROVER LAS VEGAS! A top notch place. I just got a call from them. I explained the situation, and even though they won't be doing any work they were happy to look after my truck as I figure out shipping, and will even be recommending some carriers they use. No storage fees, no hassle, nothing. The last line I think the service guy said to me was "We are here to support you no matter what you need". Class act!

------ Follow up post added August 6th, 2011 08:42 AM ------

I should also add that we just made it home safe and sound thanks to "The Red Baron", Josh's NAS 90!
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  #143  
Old August 6th, 2011, 01:07 PM
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Wow... what a story.. that sucks
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  #144  
Old August 6th, 2011, 01:30 PM
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So did the overheating really cause the tensioner pulley and belt to fail? How?

Neill, do you now have a long list of spares to bring on your next trip?

Thanks for sharing your story. Not only is it fun to be apart of your adventures but also helpful to learn from all the technical failures along the way. I will make sure to do the same when my trip comes up.
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  #145  
Old August 7th, 2011, 10:08 AM
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On a side note Pendy, would love to see a technical how to thread if you are willing on how to install the coolant level sensor. I'm assuming you are doing a variant on the RRC sensor cap build that is illustrated on the net, but I may be wrong. Anything "Pendy-Approved" is a must in my book.
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  #146  
Old August 7th, 2011, 10:53 AM
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Yes the RRC sensor cap. Or the early RRC had a metal expansion tank with a level sesor in it. Believe you have the plastic expansion tank. So the RRC sensor cap is your route.

It is just a switch. Make one side go to gound and the other to a light on the dash. You have some extra in the warning panel. There is a gear with a thermometer you could use. It has power on one side already. So give it a ground signal from your level sensor cap.

Very easy update. Keeps things honest when you track your coolant level, before catastrophy.

I like your writeups Mark. You should do this from scratch. I can try to weigh in on it while you are in process, if you like.

Have not seen any writeup on this update. You should link it when you do your writeup.
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  #147  
Old August 7th, 2011, 12:08 PM
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Will do Jim. thx
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  #148  
Old August 7th, 2011, 02:33 PM
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Jim, are you still selling the aluminum fans?
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  #149  
Old August 7th, 2011, 02:37 PM
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Yeah still have clutchless fans available. Can sell them with a plastic fan blade as well. You can switch back to vicious in the winter time with these hub replacements.
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  #150  
Old August 7th, 2011, 06:33 PM
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Funny when I read anything Pendy my inside reading voice switches to some sort of ancient sage like Gandalf wizard tone.
I put those RRC coolant level sensors in everything (possible). Saved my arse more than once. Not sure why they don't come in everything as standard.
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  #151  
Old August 11th, 2011, 01:49 PM
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Well, the truck showed up from the shipper today.

I used "Ship your car now", but lo and behold the driver had paperwork from CentralDispatch. The driver was a great guy, and the truck arrived just as I had left it in Las Vegas.

Gonna sit on it for a week or two then start figuring out

1) How to fix the tensioner stud (will likely get a new housing)
2) The final fix for the cooling situation
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  #152  
Old August 11th, 2011, 04:37 PM
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neill

no need at all for a new housing. helicoils are cheap and easy to do.


Quote:
Originally Posted by navydevildoc View Post
Well, the truck showed up from the shipper today.

I used "Ship your car now", but lo and behold the driver had paperwork from CentralDispatch. The driver was a great guy, and the truck arrived just as I had left it in Las Vegas.

Gonna sit on it for a week or two then start figuring out

1) How to fix the tensioner stud (will likely get a new housing)
2) The final fix for the cooling situation
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  #153  
Old August 11th, 2011, 08:33 PM
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I had that tensioner stud strip out on me just outside Calgary on my way to B.C. from Manitoba..
My road side repair was to tap it out to a std sae thread, heli coil it and use the appropriate length sae bolt. It is still that way 2 years later....
the tap was just the right size not to need the hole drilled out first! RDS had that part of the timing cover for 365.00 they call it a water pump bracket...
might be something to look at removing and doing some slight machine work to and make it accept a bolt from the rear with a slight interference fit or something???? Never have to worry about it pulling out or loosening destroying the housing again...
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  #154  
Old August 11th, 2011, 09:37 PM
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I could source that part for about $150 here. Its also advised to change that part if looks corroded where the water pumps goes and that makes the water not going as fast as it needs to cool the engine.

I could buy and ship if it is convenient to you guys.

Pictures of when I changed it on mine can be seen here.

http://www.landroverclub.com.ar/view...17334&start=45

Cheers,
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  #155  
Old September 18th, 2011, 01:39 PM
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Well guys, just wanted to start closing out the issues with this thread.

For those wondering which NAPA belt will fit a 300Tdi in a pinch, the replacement NAPA part number is 060630 according to the packaging. It's only a 5 or 6 rib belt, and the engine is kitted for 7, but mine lasted through Alaska and would have kept going if not for the tensioner stud issues that were completely unrelated. This is to replace the "longer" belt, part ERR3287. For the shorter "newer" belt, I would imagine you will need to find a smart NAPA guy and find a 1580mm belt.

FOr overheating, I have gotten a completely new intercooler/radiator assembly. While I still have doubts that the intercooler blocking the radiator is the problem, there really is no where else to go with this odd problem except maybe the block water jacket being f-ed up somehow. But I know when we had it off before water flowed quite freely from the water pump housing back to the thermostat. I will be trying it again before I put it back together.

I am going to leave the current radiator on for now and get an IR thermometer and see what's going on. Right now I have the water pump casing off the engine to put a helicoil in for the tensioner stud, but hopefully I can have that back together today. Once it's running I'll drive around San Diego a bit checking out the temps, and do some testing with the radiator temps as well.

On the oil pressure front, I ordered a new pressure switch and oil cooler thermostat, but they aren't here yet. When they come in, I am going to drop the pan and check the sump at the same time.

On a separate note, while removing the water pump casing I had to remove the intercooler to induction manifold hose, and I noticed some oil in there. Not a lot really, but it's not just a misting either. Since this is on the output side of the intercooler, I doubt it's coming all the way from the turbo, but I don't see where it would be coming from the intake on the engine either. So I have a mystery on my hands. I can post a picture if that helps.
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  #156  
Old September 18th, 2011, 02:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by navydevildoc View Post
On a separate note, while removing the water pump casing I had to remove the intercooler to induction manifold hose, and I noticed some oil in there. Not a lot really, but it's not just a misting either. Since this is on the output side of the intercooler, I doubt it's coming all the way from the turbo, but I don't see where it would be coming from the intake on the engine either. So I have a mystery on my hands. I can post a picture if that helps.
The crank case breather should be routed back to the air intake just after the air filter, if the oil separator is blocked (it's on the side of the rocker opposite the intake, should have one hose going to the intake and another leading back to the sump [oil pan]) or not fully doing it's job you'll get a layer of oil on everything except the turbo vanes because it'll spin off them. Probably get a layer of oil on everything even if the separator is doing it's job. Not a cause for undue alarm. the vapour tends to condense due to temperature drop in the intercooler.
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  #157  
Old March 24th, 2012, 09:21 PM
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I am still trying to figure out my heating issue from all of this....

I have the new factory rad/intercooler assembly that I have yet to put in. Something I am also trying to sort out is the correct routing of the coolant hoses compared to stock.

Can anyone with a stock 300 Tdi post a picture of what they have going on?
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  #158  
Old March 24th, 2012, 09:24 PM
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Neill Thornton
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Or, at least to compare, this is what I have going on... Does this look close to correct? Forget about the large aluminum box, that's a custom intake hard plumbed to the snorkel.

Click image for larger version

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  #159  
Old March 24th, 2012, 09:59 PM
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whats up with your upper radiator hose ? Can't speak to a tdi (mine runs very cool)but the upward hump that you have there with that multi part hose would create an air pocket on a gas truck. I have seen disco's overheat because of a hose routed like that. Shortening and properly installing the hose stopped the over heating problem on those.
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  #160  
Old March 24th, 2012, 10:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 130Tdi View Post
whats up with your upper radiator hose ? Can't speak to a tdi (mine runs very cool)but the upward hump that you have there with that multi part hose would create an air pocket on a gas truck. I have seen disco's overheat because of a hose routed like that. Shortening and properly installing the hose stopped the over heating problem on those.
You now see why I'm asking.....
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