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  #121  
Old August 2nd, 2011, 10:49 PM
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Mike Hammond
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Sounds like the trip's been a real learning experience.
Good luck with the rest of the trip.
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  #122  
Old August 3rd, 2011, 02:23 AM
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Neill Thornton
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Well, we made it to Spanish Fork UT, just south of SLC where I have family.

However, a new problem has presented itself. Once the engine is warmed up, on idle the oil pressure light is flickering.

Some quick googling seems to point to three classes of possible problems:

1 - Very Easy - Replace the sender as it's messed up.
2 - Slightly Harder - Change the oil and filter, and possibly drop the sump and look at the pressure regulating valve.
3 - Bad Juju - Main bearings, oil pump, etc failing.

Due to this new problem, and the fact that the radiator is still not effectively cooling the engine on any sort of grade, we have had to make the tough decision to cut the Rally from our trip. Hopefully we can find a way to at least get our t-shirts we would have gotten, since we registered a long time ago. But trying to cross the continental divide both ways in a truck that seems to get way to hot on any kind of load just sounds like a bad idea.

Instead we are going to set up shop in SLC for a few days, see if we can get the radiator re-cored, and investigate the oil pressure issue. If we can't get that sorted then the truck will be getting a ride home.
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  #123  
Old August 3rd, 2011, 02:37 AM
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John B
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Rats man! That's a real bummer. Couldn't have happened at a worse time. Best of luck with everything and have a safe journey home.
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  #124  
Old August 3rd, 2011, 06:48 AM
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Not trying to be a dick, but have you got the Serp belt in the correct routing.?I get V8's in the shop often (enough)that have odd overheating issues and it's due to the Serp belt being installed incorrectly and actually spinning the water pump in reverse. Long shot and I'm not sure that this is even possible with a 300........I'm not even awake enough yet to hit the driveway and look.........but worth looking cause you've got something odd going on.
The oil pressure is a bummer. If your running synthetic it will show a lower pressure than good ole Rottella 15/40 but shouldn't be that low.
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  #125  
Old August 3rd, 2011, 08:02 AM
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Isnt Great Basin Rovers in SLC?
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  #126  
Old August 3rd, 2011, 08:13 AM
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Mike Hammond
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I had exactly the same thing on the 110 200tdi on the second trip to Morocco, engine hot, weather extreemly hot - pushing 45c, oil pressure light flickering at tick over, slightest revs and the light went out. I lived with it (but worried over it) for the rest of the trip, did a full oil change and oil-flush when I got home and all was well. I think the oil was just thinning out due to the heat, or maybe there was a bit of something stuck in the pressure relief valve, anyway the oil-flush & change sorted it and, touch wood, the problem hasn't reoccured.

Check the simple things first - maybe start with an engine oil-flush, new oil and filter. Then change the pressure switch before fearing the worst.

Radiator - how does the temperature of the top and bottom hoses compare? Top will be hot but the bottom considerably cooler. Is the thermostat still in there?
You really need to sort the cooling issue out as the first priority 200 & 300 tdis really don't take kindly to overheating.
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  #127  
Old August 3rd, 2011, 12:19 PM
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Neill Thornton
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Quote:
Originally Posted by airbornrover View Post
Isnt Great Basin Rovers in SLC?
Yes they are, but I am not sure they are going to be able to do anything we can't do... nothing against them, but the Tdi is an easy engine to work on and we have all the right tools. I mean, we did a head gasket in a driveway a little over a week ago.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeslandrover View Post
I had exactly the same thing on the 110 200tdi on the second trip to Morocco, engine hot, weather extreemly hot - pushing 45c, oil pressure light flickering at tick over, slightest revs and the light went out. I lived with it (but worried over it) for the rest of the trip, did a full oil change and oil-flush when I got home and all was well. I think the oil was just thinning out due to the heat, or maybe there was a bit of something stuck in the pressure relief valve, anyway the oil-flush & change sorted it and, touch wood, the problem hasn't reoccured.

Check the simple things first - maybe start with an engine oil-flush, new oil and filter. Then change the pressure switch before fearing the worst.

Radiator - how does the temperature of the top and bottom hoses compare? Top will be hot but the bottom considerably cooler. Is the thermostat still in there?
You really need to sort the cooling issue out as the first priority 200 & 300 tdis really don't take kindly to overheating.
Yeah, we are looking in to a radiator shop that can do the re-core, and then an oil change again. It's got Mobil 1 5w-40 turbodiesel in it right now. I too am hoping that it's just a funky sender or thin oil problem... but we are 800 miles from home as it is, so heading further away doesn't seem prudent.
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  #128  
Old August 3rd, 2011, 01:42 PM
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mark kellgren
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Getting the radiator recored makes a lot of sense. I just swapped mine out because two applications of head sealant to deal with a minor fracture in my head completely clogged it up. I actually just swapped out my cracked head for a new one this weekend. I was battling cooling loss and overheating constantly for past month. overheating was entirely due to a fully clogged radiator. I ended up getting a cheap $10 IR thermometer from harbor tools locally, and no temp diff between top and bottom hose confirmed the fault.

As for the oil, I though you had just changed the oil after the head gasket? if you are changing it again, if I were you, before all this extra mess, I would source a sump gasket, and then pull the sump off (we're talking 30 min of work to drain and pull) and look at that pickup. a clogged pickup would cause you all sorts of problems to include low pressure, and remember that the oil does part of the cooling. coolant doesn't carry the whole load. low oil pressure should be putting extra strain on the cooling system.

Best of luck. I know you are probably battling the desire to sell your vehicle right now after this much drama. it is such an easy engine to work with though. Hey, at least your turbo hasn't failed you yet. That's expensive (although easy to replace).
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  #129  
Old August 3rd, 2011, 02:18 PM
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Jamie Austin
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I had the same thing with some agricultural "multi purpose diesel" oil i put into my old 200Tdi... it light the pressure light at idle when it was hot.

changed the oil for quality stuff, and the problem went away.

could also be the oil pressure switch itself... they're very cheap and usually crap in quality.
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  #130  
Old August 3rd, 2011, 02:25 PM
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Matthew
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When I was sold my truck it had a flickering oil pressure light at idle. I tried replacing the sender, oil, filter, wiring to idiot light and cleaning the oil cooler lines. Nothing fixed it unfortunately until it blew up the other day
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  #131  
Old August 3rd, 2011, 03:38 PM
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mark kellgren
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On that note, does anybody know what PSI turns the light off on a healthy sender?

On my 2.8, I get 40 psi cold idling at 900 rpm, and once the oil is good and hot, it drops to about 20. My light goes out right after start up and stays out.

what I'm wondering is what rpm is navydoc's tdi idling at? maybe it's set too low as either the fault or a contributing factor. do you have an oil press gauge in that truck or just the idiot light?
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  #132  
Old August 3rd, 2011, 04:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by navydevildoc View Post
It's got Mobil 1 5w-40 turbodiesel in it right now.
5W40 sounds awfully thin to me for an engine designed in the 1990's.

10W40 is only 5 away from 5W40, but it is much more viscous...
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  #133  
Old August 3rd, 2011, 05:01 PM
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Joshua
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Overlander View Post
On that note, does anybody know what PSI turns the light off on a healthy sender?
Pretty sure the warning light turns on when PSI drops below 7.5 - that's a V8 though.
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  #134  
Old August 3rd, 2011, 06:25 PM
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Neill Thornton
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonoronos

5W40 sounds awfully thin to me for an engine designed in the 1990's.

10W40 is only 5 away from 5W40, but it is much more viscous...
Actually the "40" is the viscosity when warm, so it doesn't matter too much for this particular problem. The "W" number is when cold, which means I get quick oil flow when I first start up with thin oil.
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  #135  
Old August 5th, 2011, 12:10 AM
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Neill,

I've been watching your thread with great interest and hopefulness that things would smooth out. Olaf and Peter M are supposed to be at the Rally this week. Olaf came to the Big Bear event and then hit the road east to Colorado on Sunday morning. i alerted them to look for your T Shirts.

Best of luck on your return.

Dennis

PS I seem to be making progress on my 110's engine heat issues. Will be most interested to hear what you eventually determine as a cause.
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  #136  
Old August 5th, 2011, 01:22 AM
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Neill Thornton
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Well, getting a radiator re-cored these days isn't nearly as easy as you might think. So, I ended up buying a new radiator from RN, with FedEx shipping... that's 3 overnighted orders from RN on this trip!

Radiator went in real easy. While we were at it I pulled the intercooler out to see how much crud was in there, but it was surprisingly clean. I also changed the oil and filter.

For some reason I completely forgot to order a new oil sender at the same time, but a quick test drive got it up to ~195-200, and then it stayed there, and the oil light stayed off. We are going to do a test drive up to Provo (about 15 miles) to get it nice and warm on the freeway and see what happens.

Dennis: Thanks! Olaf sent me a message as well, we will see what happens. It's a bummer to miss the rally, but we are both ready to be home safe and sound at this point.
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  #137  
Old August 5th, 2011, 09:59 AM
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mark kellgren
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Consider your trip as repurposed into a TDI workshop; training that will last a lifetime!
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  #138  
Old August 6th, 2011, 06:32 AM
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Neill Thornton
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Well the Tdi decided it had endured enough torture. 60 miles north of Las Vegas the serpentine tensioner mounting stud that we had previously JB welded gave way.

This caused the belt to shred, and no real way to fix it.

Admitting defeat we called AAA and had it towed to Land Rover Las Vegas. I am going to arrange for shipping home from there.

Getting into the dealer lot was actually kind of comical... They have gates and boulders and other stuff along the street to keep their cars in. But there was nothing a defender couldn't go over separating Land Rover from the Kia dealer next door. So, some urban offroading through the Kia dealer gained us access to the Land Rover lot.

So if anyone wants to see the Antichrist in person, it's sitting at LRLV.

We loaded all of our crap into Josh's 90, and now it's up to the Red Baron to get us home! ETA is 9 AM.
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  #139  
Old August 6th, 2011, 10:39 AM
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Ah, man! Sorry to hear.
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  #140  
Old August 6th, 2011, 10:56 AM
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I know it's discouraging, but in perspective what happened to your Tdi is really a function of that initial overheating. It just stresses everything else to the breaking point. I give you a lot of credit for forging on till the bitter end. Hopefully, when you get your truck back, you will have time to go over everything and sort it out.
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