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  #21  
Old July 18th, 2011, 02:56 PM
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Santiago Montenegro
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I wouldn't run a 300 TDI without a thermostat. It looks like most of the coolant would just bypass the radiator if there isn't one.
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  #22  
Old July 18th, 2011, 03:00 PM
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mark kellgren
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Santiago Montenegr View Post
I wouldn't run a 300 TDI without a thermostat. It looks like most of the coolant would just bypass the radiator if there isn't one.
I've seen several references that state the thermostat, even wide open, provides a flow restriction that is needed to divert coolant through the head/block and thus should never been run without. one recommendation was to cut the spring that keeps it closed so it could flow wide open easily.
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  #23  
Old July 18th, 2011, 03:11 PM
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Todd Miller
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I can't offer any technical support only moral, so good luck I hope this works out and doesn't ruin your Alaska adventure. sounds like the Gurus here have you on the right track to success.
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  #24  
Old July 18th, 2011, 03:17 PM
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It is possibe you have a head gasket failure from running the engine without thermostat. If, for emergency cases, you want to run this engine without thermostat, block the hose on the side of your thermostat cover. This is the bybass and when taking it out most coolant will run through your enigne instead of through your radiator.

So when replacing the headgaske put back the thermostat or block that little hose !!!!!
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  #25  
Old July 18th, 2011, 04:31 PM
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Doug Crowther
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Your only fan is electric. You state it was wired backward and you fixed this on your first stop. The only other reference to this crucial part is that it wasn't running when you overheat the second time. No one has asked about the fan surprisingly. Your truck overheats when you get off the highway into stop and go traffic. Sounds like an airflow issue over the radiator to me.
Have you tried wiring this fan so that it runs full time to cool the engine ? Your head gasket may be compromised but it will happen again if the fan isn't running.
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  #26  
Old July 18th, 2011, 04:54 PM
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Julien Dalbin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 130Tdi View Post
No one has asked about the fan surprisingly. Your truck overheats when you get off the highway into stop and go traffic. Sounds like an airflow issue over the radiator to me.
I did, saying that he should go back to the viscous fan setup.
He will rule out electrical issues.
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  #27  
Old July 18th, 2011, 04:58 PM
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Sean Wheeler
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 130Tdi View Post
Your only fan is electric. You state it was wired backward and you fixed this on your first stop. The only other reference to this crucial part is that it wasn't running when you overheat the second time. No one has asked about the fan surprisingly. Your truck overheats when you get off the highway into stop and go traffic. Sounds like an airflow issue over the radiator to me.
Have you tried wiring this fan so that it runs full time to cool the engine ? Your head gasket may be compromised but it will happen again if the fan isn't running.
Doug is on to something here. I have seen E-Fan switches get damaged from overheating in the past. The first overheat could of cooked it. You might want to spend 5 min and try to jump the wires that connect to the switch together. If the E-Fan turns on, then go for a quick drive around town and monitor the temps. If the E-fan doesnt turn on, I would recomend further investigation into that before breaking the motor down.
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  #28  
Old July 18th, 2011, 05:11 PM
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steve
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I have a 300tdi and 200tdi viscous fan/clutch/shroud you are welcome to borrow. I'm in Berkeley and on your way north if you want to stop by.

Also, you may want to flow test the radiator. With all that gunk in there it could be clogged. It would be good to be sure there is not a pinhole leak also. Especially since it did get way too hot I think you are on the right track with the head gasket, but Doug is right that you should make sure the cooling system is in order before you get back on the road.


If you need any other help please let me know.
I'll PM you my phone number.
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  #29  
Old July 18th, 2011, 06:22 PM
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250F is way too much for the Tdi´s head gasket I guess. I also believe that flow test the rad is the way to go and go back to viscous coupling fan or a properly working e-fan. Also look for cavities in the water pump housing if you take it out. Mine had that once, and even though the w-pump itself was ok the water flow wasn´t right and made the bottle to spill water out because of a lack of proper water flow.

Cheers,
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  #30  
Old July 18th, 2011, 09:44 PM
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Carl Jonsson
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Following with suspense and hoping you'll make that ferry ride!
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  #31  
Old July 18th, 2011, 11:38 PM
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Neill Thornton
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Houston we have a problem.....
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  #32  
Old July 18th, 2011, 11:47 PM
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Carl Jonsson
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What are we looking at? Is the head gasket missing?
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  #33  
Old July 18th, 2011, 11:59 PM
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Neill Thornton
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We already pulled of the head gasket, that's the bottom of the head you are looking at. There should not be any black carbon crap outside of the piston heads themselves. In between the two middle cylinders is just blasted with black carbon, which means exhaust gases were escaping. In addition, that triangular almost heart shaped spot in the middle is the water jacket in the block. Gases were coming out of cylinders 2 and 3 and getting into the coolant loop.

This is exactly what we hoped to find.
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  #34  
Old July 19th, 2011, 02:13 AM
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Carl Jonsson
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Sounds like good news. New gasket aside is there anything else that need to be replaced? If you make the trip I'd be curious to hear about it when you get back. Thinking about doing a similar route (ferry to Alaska, drive back to Portland) next year.
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  #35  
Old July 19th, 2011, 06:27 AM
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Gren Thomas
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Hi Neill, good luck with the rebuild if its not too late it may be a good idea to check the head has not warped before refitting.
also i would remove the rad fill it with rad flush or similar & then give it a serious back flush before refitting.

It seems like a bummer now but it will all add to the memories of the trip.

regards
Gren
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  #36  
Old July 19th, 2011, 10:31 AM
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kevin
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Definitely check that block and head for straightness or you will be doing this all over again.

Btw, what head gasket did you get?
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  #37  
Old July 19th, 2011, 10:42 AM
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Neill Thornton
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3 hole, as that's what was on there.

My dilemma now is what to do with a broken glow plug that will probably take a bolt extractor to remove. I started a second thread just for that.
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  #38  
Old July 19th, 2011, 10:45 AM
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Charles Galpin
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Perhaps you should run over to a machine shop and have them extract the glow plug and check the head for warping? If there is a problem they could fix that on the spot.

Best of luck getting this resolved,
charles
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  #39  
Old July 19th, 2011, 11:12 AM
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Matthew
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how long did it take for you to pull the head?
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  #40  
Old July 19th, 2011, 11:32 AM
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Neill Thornton
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Between Josh and I about 2.5 hours. It would have been much less had we realized we didn't need to remove the glow plugs and injectors. The 300Tdi is surprisingly easy to work on.

All you have to do is drain coolant, remove a bunch of coolant hoses, remove the fuel lines, unwire the rear glow plug supply, pull the intake and exhaust manifolds (we didn't even remove the exhaust, just unbolted it and the turbo oil lines and pulled it out of the way).

About 20 bolts after that and you have the head off.

Funny side story, the next door neighbor here at the house we have crashed at is a career Mercedes mechanic. I was just talking to him about the glow plug situation and he goes "wait, it's an aluminum head? on a diesel??" and just starts shaking his head. But he has been invaluable on sourcing parts (such as the glow plugs) and machine shop recommendations if we need it.
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