Urban Offroad Rack- Anyone have one? - Page 2 - Defender Source
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  #21  
Old September 27th, 2007, 12:42 AM
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Daniel Marcello
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Im getting a sweet deal on a basket and might just hook the front up to the crossbars and feet, and then fab up something that will hold the rear up with a cross bar too. really don't need a ladder + the extra weight.
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  #22  
Old September 27th, 2007, 12:50 AM
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Gary Young
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Thule Super High Footers will fit (just barely) in the rear on a SW. Not sure if they woud be the correct height though. I thought about doing what you suggest, but decided I wanted the rear ladders for access and I like the looks of them on the rear also.
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  #23  
Old September 27th, 2007, 01:06 AM
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Daniel Marcello
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PCRover
Thule Super High Footers will fit (just barely) in the rear on a SW. Not sure if they woud be the correct height though. I thought about doing what you suggest, but decided I wanted the rear ladders for access and I like the looks of them on the rear also.
I totally agree with you. the rear ladder is nice and i would love to have one, but if you are going with the SD rack then we all know how hard it is to find one. So i was figured in the mean time to just do the Thule High Footers like you said and rig something up there so it supports it till i find an SD rear ladder.
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  #24  
Old September 27th, 2007, 01:12 AM
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Shawn Palmer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PCRover
Here are the part numbers I was given, and I received the correct pieces from these numbers. Got them last week. Shop around for pricing, it can vary a lot depending on the dealer.

4ea LRNA90FSRR05 (Individual Feet)
1ea LRNA90FSRR06 (Crossbar Pair)
Is there any other part needed? I read somewhere about a part that is used to connct the basket to the crossbars.

http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...referrerid=292
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  #25  
Old September 27th, 2007, 01:25 AM
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Gary Young
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Nothing else from LR is needed or avaialble. But you will need some bolts and nuts. Also some spacers if you have a soft top to raise the basket to match the rear ladder height. The ST cage is a little lower in height.
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  #26  
Old November 4th, 2007, 01:04 PM
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Dendy Jarrett
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Well, the Urban Rack arrived and I have installed it. Added roll bar lights top side and two rear work lights. Jerry cans for all purposes.
Some static cling land rover logos for the door and attended a Land Rover Event outside of Nashville, Tn yesterday.

Snapped a few shots and (if I can determine how to add image files) I have added a couple here.

What do you guys think?

Dendy Jarrett
nashville, tn.
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  #27  
Old November 4th, 2007, 02:13 PM
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Chris Snyder
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Looks great. I can tell the difference between it and an SD, but I don't consider that a bad thing at all.
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  #28  
Old November 4th, 2007, 02:16 PM
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Phillip
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take some closer photos.
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  #29  
Old November 4th, 2007, 02:47 PM
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Dendy Jarrett
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What are the size limits on the photos?
I can simply post larger images of the attachments if you need more detail.
DJ

Follow-up Post:

I should also point out that I had Derek fabricate a basket within the basket for the Jerry Cans. He added tabs at the front and rear of the rack so that I can place the jerry can basket either in the rear or front of the large basket.

Thanks,
DJ

Follow-up Post:

How about this?

DJ
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  #30  
Old November 4th, 2007, 04:18 PM
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the basket seems almost perfect, I wonder why it would be so much harder for them to match the same contours etc of the SD ladder and front mounts/supports? How do the mounts on the tub look?
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  #31  
Old November 4th, 2007, 04:22 PM
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Jim Cheney
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The clamps for attaching the crossbars to the roll cage don't look very tidy - are they just not tightened down in that photo or do they remain that way?
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  #32  
Old November 4th, 2007, 04:29 PM
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Dendy Jarrett
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I chose to put rubber gaskets under those clamps to prevent marring the finish on the stock bars. They clamps are designed as original to the exact diameter of the stock tubing, hence the spacing issue.
Looking for a thinner gasket material than that that I used to hopefully tighten that up a bit.

Thanks,
DJ
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  #33  
Old November 4th, 2007, 08:51 PM
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Shawn Palmer
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The radius bends on the SD basket and supports are hard to copy from what I have been told. I tried to get a copy made, but the fabricator couldn't replicate the bends. He could, however, replicate the bends on the Urban Offroad version.
I ended up buying original clamps, crossbars, and basket. Then, had Urban Offroad build me a rear ladder that is exactly like the SD rear ladder. Of coarse, he charged me more, but I got what I paid for and it looks perfect.
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  #34  
Old November 4th, 2007, 09:07 PM
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Dendy Jarrett
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Shawn:

Be interested in seeing pics of the differences.

I am still happy as I can be with the rack as it is. I was more concerned with function than originality (my truck has enough mods not to be considered totally stock original). What I am amazed at is how sturdy the rack is. I think you could park another D-90 on top of my truck.

Thanks,
D
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  #35  
Old November 4th, 2007, 09:12 PM
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John Crouse
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Racks

I'm having my SD rack repaired right now. (Previous owner drove it into a parking garage) Welder had same issue and said he could not replicate the SD bends. He ordered the bends from somewhere. Pretty exact. He had some source for "pre-bent" tubing.
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  #36  
Old November 4th, 2007, 09:35 PM
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Andrew Najarian
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NashvilleRover
I chose to put rubber gaskets under those clamps to prevent marring the finish on the stock bars. They clamps are designed as original to the exact diameter of the stock tubing, hence the spacing issue.
Looking for a thinner gasket material than that that I used to hopefully tighten that up a bit.

Thanks,
DJ
You could just use a layer of electrical tape as an insulator. It would be thin and wouldn't mar anything. The black would be awfully close to the finish on the roll cage too if it stuck out a little.
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  #37  
Old November 4th, 2007, 10:01 PM
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Shawn Palmer
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The rack looks good and I am sure it is stronger than an original. Is the basket that holds the cans removable easily? I had 2 bars welded into my basket to accomplish basically the same idea, but it holds three cans on their side.

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...r/100_3117.jpg
http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...r/100_3116.jpg
http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...r/100_3118.jpg
http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...r/100_3119.jpg
http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...r/100_3120.jpg
http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...r/100_3121.jpg
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  #38  
Old November 4th, 2007, 10:49 PM
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Dendy Jarrett
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Yeah, only four bolts hold the jerry can basket. Pretty quick to take off. I did not want to risk any fuel leaking on my truck with the cans on their backs or sides, that is why I opted for the taller method. I know there is a risk and the height limitations, but that is why I went with a cb antenna on the front that is slightly higher than the jerry cans. If I hit the antenna, I stop.

I went with a diamond plate floor (which I will eventually replace with 5 bar) and left it silver to help reflect heat and add protection to my soft top.

I really cannot tell the difference in your basket and my basket. I guess the differences (that everyone is talking about) are in the rear ladders Unless you are talking about the slight bend over on the top of each vertical basket riser.

Do you have any pics of it on your truck?

thanks,
D
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