Upgraded heater fan blowing fuses - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old January 26th, 2016, 08:10 PM
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Chris Davis
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Upgraded heater fan blowing fuses

So I have enlarged my bulkhead air hole and swapped in a GM heater fan as many of you have but now I'm blowing fuses (10A). I reworded the fan and separated the ground and the fan works fine but occasionally blows the fuse. I have not checked for sure, but I believe it is 14 gauge wire and given the run distance I think I may update the fuse to 12.5A as the wire can go higher (again, I'll double check wire gauge). Any other thoughts? I'll check if there is a ground leak tomorrow, but I'm thinking the motor is just drawing more amps. I'll check both motor amp draws too...

Anyone else experience this?
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  #2  
Old January 26th, 2016, 08:19 PM
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mark kellgren
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you upgraded ground wires all the way through the switches/resistors to chassis ground?


id like to get details on that fan motor and pics of swap.
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  #3  
Old January 26th, 2016, 08:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Overlander View Post

id like to get details on that fan motor and pics of swap.
There is a thread on here somewhere about the upgrade with part numbers and how to install it.
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  #4  
Old January 26th, 2016, 09:19 PM
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mark kellgren
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jymmiejamz View Post

There is a thread on here somewhere about the upgrade with part numbers and how to install it.
i remember the thread, but the majority of it as I recall was theoretical regarding possible part numbers, with no confirmed fit.

Im asking for confirmed fit part number.
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  #5  
Old January 26th, 2016, 09:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Overlander View Post
i remember the thread, but the majority of it as I recall was theoretical regarding possible part numbers, with no confirmed fit. Im asking for confirmed fit part number.
put a relay in and call it a day, the fan switch is just contact leads and not insanely robust.

------ Follow up post added January 26th, 2016 09:28 PM ------

Better yethttp://www.newark.com/carling-techno...FUeUfgodEH4EIA
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  #6  
Old January 26th, 2016, 09:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Overlander View Post
i remember the thread, but the majority of it as I recall was theoretical regarding possible part numbers, with no confirmed fit.

Im asking for confirmed fit part number.
Yeah I recall a bunch of banter, but IIRC all of the needed info is in that thread. Someone should do a writeup in a new thread.
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  #7  
Old January 26th, 2016, 09:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NPT90 View Post
put a relay in and call it a day, the fan switch is just contact leads and not insanely robust.

------ Follow up post added January 26th, 2016 09:28 PM ------

Better yetRV26D2DC0CB-K4C - CARLING TECHNOLOGIES - Rotary Switch, 30 °, 20 A, 12 V | Newark element14
How do you relay it? It is two speed and ground switched.
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Old January 26th, 2016, 09:57 PM
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How do you relay it? It is two speed and ground switched.
single relay for each setting I would imagine, if it's eating fuses it might be the switch itself. You could still relay off a ground circuit, it's going to be +12 when closed anyway
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Old January 26th, 2016, 10:09 PM
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The stock wiring will be fine with a 15 Amp fuse. There is zero reason to make life complicated.
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  #10  
Old January 26th, 2016, 10:09 PM
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Did the swap, no issues at all with fuses, used blower motor GM/VDO #PM136, no relay added (though the initial thought process we had as well back then was I may need one...but did not), and did not change out any other wires/etc besides cracking open the PM136 to fiddle with the internal ground wire. Here's the synopsis:
http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...tml#post396404

There was talk of being able to use a PM138 without needing to crack it open and separate the internal ground, but that was never quite verified.

In addition to the PM136, the only other purchase I made was a "pigtail connector" to wire up in the PM136 so I could still use the factory wiring harness in the truck to plug it in. It's the one on the right in this photo with the red & white wires (purchased at Advance Auto):
http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...p;d=1355863396
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  #11  
Old January 26th, 2016, 11:59 PM
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Chris Davis
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Jason has it right and I used those threads. There are pictures there and I can help with any description, but I didn't bother as I thought it was well covered. For the fan: New heater fan: search for 1994 Buick Century, V6.* (Everco, Tough One, 4 Seasons…all # 35333) and that is the fan I used. I drilled the rivets, drilled the brush grounded to the case, shrink wrapped the copper wire and then added the aforementioned pig tail which actually fits right into the factory pig tail on the heater box. Perfect. So I did blow a fuse and tonight, my wife said that she couldn't get it working so I assumed it was another blown fuse. It wasn't. Everything is as it should be but the lever was just too stiff pulling down that it didn't get to the switches. I am not sure what is up--it is indeed hard to pull down (was before swap too) so I am going to have to trace the wire back to all possibilities. the fan still works, no blown fuse this time.

Any clues on getting that easier to move? It has been years this way, but I've never tracked it down. I believe it is in the switch itself and it is quite pricey. It has even bent the arm before it is so tough ...
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  #12  
Old January 27th, 2016, 12:02 AM
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Disconnect the other end of the cable and see if it is the cable or the flap.
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Old January 27th, 2016, 10:01 AM
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Did that this morning--the heater core lever is smooth as silk, which is good because it is rather a PITA to get out. It is definitely switch/cable side. I'll dig into that when I do the speedometer during next nice weather spell (no garage so winter repairs are a little weather dependent...)
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  #14  
Old January 27th, 2016, 10:50 AM
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Probably the cable. Easy to replace.
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  #15  
Old January 27th, 2016, 03:39 PM
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Actually just ordered a new cable... only $12...
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  #16  
Old January 30th, 2016, 09:37 PM
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Cable came, solved all the ills. Things back up and running.
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