Upgraded 110 Interior Lamp/Dome Light - Page 2 - Defender Source
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  #21  
Old January 2nd, 2010, 11:04 AM
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Very nice Rob!
I just ordered one. Can't wait to install it.
Flexible 5mm LED Dome Light
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  #22  
Old January 2nd, 2010, 01:52 PM
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back to my issue. so confused. I have the new lights. The ol light had two wires going to it. The new light has two prongs coming out of it. One directly to bulb and one to I gues ground it. I tried to plug the existing wires into the two prongs and nothing. I only get the light to work if I put one wire to the bulb prong and one to the backing plate. Doesnt matter which
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  #23  
Old January 2nd, 2010, 02:02 PM
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Glad to help.....Definitely a great modification.

With the front and back lit up...i almost dont need area lighting for the campsite.


FYI i installed the 2" x 2" ultrathin dome light...because its so thin you dont care what the bayonet bulb dims are...just what fits under the lens....i have enough room to fit a smaller one next to mine...i would like red as well...but im just not smart enough to wire a switch to differentiate colors.


I also bought 4 of the tiny superflux 4-chip orange LEDs. Im going to put one in each door panel (bottom corner). Drivers and roads here in Israel, border 3rd world status....so i want lights instead of a little reflector when the doors are open street-side. Not bright enough to blind....but they do get your attention...hell i might make them blink, so they'll have no excuse.

Lastly...Im even thinking of replacing the reverse light bulb with one of these led dome lights....i live in the wine country here...and i have a long curving driveway to reverse into.....i think it might work....if not...ill buy a couple of the 1watt led floods they have, and just mount them to the rear cross-member...paint them black and there unnoticeable.

take care,

Rob
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  #24  
Old January 3rd, 2010, 02:33 PM
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This is a new interior light. As I said I had two wires coming from the old one. I tried to connect both wires to the two prongs on the new light and nothing happened. It only works if I touch one wire to the backing plate and one wire to the prong that goes to the bulb. It doesn't matter which wire is which.

Any help would be appreciated.
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Are there shocks that I can addjust up and down like my friends LX460? That would be very cool!
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  #25  
Old January 14th, 2010, 10:55 PM
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I have a couple of questions regarding the new lights in the truck. I am just testing stuff so bare with me.
1. For the front light the old light had no switch. The new ones do. From what I can tell I can only get it the new ones to work in the middle switch position. If I turn the light to fully on it shuts off. Is this how they work since there is a switch on the dash in NAS 110s?
2. I dont seem to need to ground the light. It works fine in the above configuration with no ground. Is this normal?
3. In the picture I am including you will see the new wire harness plug for the front with a ground coming out of it and you will see the back harness with one end going to the rear door plunger. How do I wire in this plunger. My assumption was to splice one of the two wires coming from the truck to the front light and to the back. The other wire would go to the front light the back light and the rear plunger. Does this make sense? I couldn't get it to work.

Any help is much appreciated.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/barryri...99151/sizes/o/
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  #26  
Old January 15th, 2010, 12:42 AM
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Andrew Najarian
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Barry, you are a man in desperate need of a test light!

As I recall, the dash dome light switch controls whether the light is on/off/door. The two wires up there should be ground and hot (12+). The new lights ground themselves through the base.

From your picture, the silver terminal coming off the switch is your ground. This connection is made through the backing plate when you install the two nuts, so make sure the backing plate is grounded to the metal rib in the roof. For the front one, I ran a ground wire from one of the windshield/roof bolts and to the base because the front one in a 110 is too far from the metal part of the roof to screw the base in directly.

The terminal that is connected directly to the bulb should be HOT all the time. The third terminal should go to your door switches. It is essentially a second ground, that is made when the door is opened. I forget exactly how I wired mine. I bought a new switch for the dash and ran all new wires when I did mine.

IIRC, I ran a ground wire through a switch on the dash and to the wire coming from the door switch. This way, I can turn any of the three on individually at the light, or turn any of them off individually. If all three are in the door position, they will all light when I open a door, or if I flip the switch on the dash. It has been a while, but I am 99% sure that is how I wired mine.

I don't recall how the factory switch operates, but to get your lamps working with the built-in switches, you will need to determine which wire up there is hot and which is grounded through the switches. Connect them as I described above and then run a ground wire to the front light base.

I hope this helps!
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  #27  
Old January 15th, 2010, 01:28 AM
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this makes sense.What is a test light? _ just figured that out. Damn should have gotten that awhile ago.

Why does the front one work without the ground right now?

Based on this info it sounds like I can run the hot wire to both lights. The ground wire that came with the truck to the first light (with a ground to winshield for backing plate) the back light should get the hot wire, the door plunger can go to the ground and the backing plate in the rib will ground it out.

I am convinced I tried this and it didnt work.
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  #28  
Old January 15th, 2010, 01:42 AM
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Andrew Najarian
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If I am understanding you correctly, your rear light will only come on when you turn it on manually or open the rear door, but will not come on when you open the front doors the way you are describing.
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  #29  
Old January 15th, 2010, 01:53 AM
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I would be ok with that if i could get that to work that way. I actually have three lights. I planned to wire the middle to the front and make the back the only different one.

thoughts?
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  #30  
Old January 15th, 2010, 02:17 AM
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It's up to you, but if you are already running the hot to the other locations, why not just run the door switch wire at the same time? That way all three come and go with any of the doors. Also, I realize now that we may be talking about different locations for the front light. I put my center light by the back seats, slightly aft of the original one. My front light is just above the rear view mirror, and the headliner is much further from the roof there. I had to use the backing plate to clamp the light to the headliner and then run the ground to it. Depending where your lights are, this may not be necessary.
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  #31  
Old January 15th, 2010, 02:42 AM
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I put the same light in my 130 about a year ago, lights up the interior like daylight with no heat output, one of the most immediately gratifying upgrades I have made.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon_Winningham View Post
Very nice Rob!
I just ordered one. Can't wait to install it.
Flexible 5mm LED Dome Light
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  #32  
Old January 15th, 2010, 10:12 AM
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Andrew, I am running them just like yours. One in the front about the mirror, one close to the original location, and one in the back. I could run both wires from the original location but if I do that I don't seem to need to ground it and then I have no clue how wire the rear door plunger.
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Are there shocks that I can addjust up and down like my friends LX460? That would be very cool!
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  #33  
Old January 15th, 2010, 10:28 AM
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Barry, you need to run the door switch wire to all three lights. Connect the rear door switch to that same terminal on the rear light. This way, when any of the doors is opened, all three will come on. The constant ground through the base is only there for the ON position to function. The lights will work when you open the doors whether they are grounded through the base or not.
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  #34  
Old January 15th, 2010, 10:35 AM
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If I connect the plunger to the rear light ground spot and there is a wire going from that light to the front two lights wont that do it?

When I get to work I am going to draw a picture.

Thanks
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Are there shocks that I can addjust up and down like my friends LX460? That would be very cool!
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  #35  
Old January 15th, 2010, 11:00 AM
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I use a dual light from an RV place. With both lights on, you are blinded.... And it looks good.
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  #36  
Old January 15th, 2010, 11:17 AM
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Originally Posted by bjf View Post
If I connect the plunger to the rear light ground spot and there is a wire going from that light to the front two lights wont that do it?

When I get to work I am going to draw a picture.

Thanks
Yes, as long as when you say "ground spot" you are referring to the terminal on the light that is routed around the bulb to the switch and not the silver terminal that grounds on the backing plate.
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  #37  
Old January 15th, 2010, 11:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bjf View Post
When I get to work I am going to draw a picture.
Andrew is correct (and you need a DVM or test light). However, maybe this will help you visualize it all. The three lights are in the middle (integrated switch is shown separately). All the door switched grounds should be hooked to the terminal that turns the light on when the light switch is on "DOOR".
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  #38  
Old January 15th, 2010, 02:42 PM
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Lots of good posts there, but to start from scratch:

1. Get a test light. I use a Power-Probe, one of the best tools I own.

2. The new lights us a nice wiring harness #AMR3158. It helps make sure all the wires go in the right place, not required, but gives a nice finished look and they are idiot proof to plug in.

3. Gut the old interior light switch out of the wiper motor cover. Trace the wires back in the dash and unplug the Lucar connectors. The color codes are:
PURPLE = constant power
BLACK = ground
PURPLE w/ BLUE STRIPE =door switch (ground)

You'll use the wires, but not the switch. The new interior lights have the switch on them, or you could use the original switch, but that is another story.

What fucks people up is that the interior light is triggered (meaning it turns on) by a ground, not by + 12v like 99% of the other things in your truck. So unlike a driving light that is ground to the truck all the time and turns on when you give it power, the interior lights always have 12v and they only turn on when you give them a ground. This is backwards to how most people think of car electrics. This ground comes either when you flip the switch manually or when you open the door.

Forget what the original truck had, as it was grounded to the roof, and your new front light won't be (assuming you are using new style headliners).

In the end you need to run/ end up with 2 or 3 wires going up to the lights.
Any light that hangs in the headliner will need 3 wires (PURPLE, PURPLE/BLUE and BLACK).
Any light that is going to be screwed to the roof can just have 2 wires (PURPLE and PURPLE/BLUE) as it gets its manual ground (BLACK) from the truck itself.

Once you get one light figured out it is easy to tie them all together, so that when you open ANY door ALL the interior lights will come on. Its also easy to add a switch to the rear door so that loading cargo is easier as all the lights will come on when you open the rear door.

Hope that helps.
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  #39  
Old January 15th, 2010, 04:49 PM
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wow a ton of info here. going to do this tomorrow. thanks everyone. I hope I get it right.

------ Follow up post added January 15th, 2010 01:58 PM ------

Mike

After rereading yours I am a bit confused about how it will work. Where is the wiper motor cover?
I am using the original headliner with a new cover so the back lights will be screwed to the roof. From there I think it makes sense. I have the new connectors which are easy to plug in but I don't fully understand how to tie it all together. I assume when I figure out the front one the others will make sense including the plunger.

------ Follow up post added January 15th, 2010 02:00 PM ------

For ease could I leave the original switch in the truck?
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  #40  
Old January 15th, 2010, 06:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bjf View Post
Mike

After rereading yours I am a bit confused about how it will work. Where is the wiper motor cover?
I am using the original headliner with a new cover so the back lights will be screwed to the roof. From there I think it makes sense. I have the new connectors which are easy to plug in but I don't fully understand how to tie it all together. I assume when I figure out the front one the others will make sense including the plunger.

------ Follow up post added January 15th, 2010 02:00 PM ------

For ease could I leave the original switch in the truck?

The wiper motor cover is the lower LH side of the dash. It covers where the wiper motor is. It is the dash piece that has the interior light switch and gauge illumination hi/lo switch in it.

If you are using the old headliners you can put the lights where you want, but you need to cut holes in them as the lights are recessed into the headliner.

If you have the wiring harness AMR3158 and plan to screw them to the roof (make sure you drill where there is a rib in the roof otherwise you will drill through the roof) then you just need to hook everything up color for color. Take your factory wires and extend them to the new rear light (color for color). If you want to add a rear door switch, run it up from the back door and hook it into the PURPLE/BLUE.

The only oddity about keeping the factory NAS 110 dash interior light switch is that if you dick around with the switches you'll be able to make it so things don't come on, etc. as you can get a combination of the dash switch saying "on" and the light saying "off" and vice versa.

You'll need to make a little bracket for the rear door as well, because the door switch (plunger) doesn't reach. You need a small foot off the back to to hit it when it closes. Should be pix all over the ECR site on this. Every 110 we do we update the interior lights.
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