Unseen corrosion is eating away at your D90! - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old April 20th, 2009, 02:27 PM
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Unseen corrosion is eating away at your D90!

Remove the galvanized plate that is at the back of the tub and holds the bottom seal and clean under it and replace the screws (which appear to be stainless and highly galvanicly active with aluminium) with aluminium pop rivits. Both trucks I did this on (including chiquita who is as rust free as east coast defenders get) had significant corrosion. Pic tonight of the damage (which I caught barely in time).

Ron
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  #2  
Old April 20th, 2009, 10:03 PM
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Scott Y
95 D90 SW, 2003 Disco II, 93 D110
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Had the same problem on my D90 SW which spent the last 8 years on Nantucket Island. I cleaned up the corrosion with a wire brush on a die grinder then painted with rust encapsulator (a really tough primer) and then Eastwood chassis paint. I wanted to get several thick layers between the plate and the aluminum tub. I'll replace the screws this coming weekend.
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  #3  
Old April 20th, 2009, 10:25 PM
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Here is a picture of the corrosion. I cleaned it with a wire brush and will etch primer it and then repaint. Then I will paint the underside of the galvanized pieces and put it back with silicone and aluminium pop rivets.

As you can tell by the rear crossmember, this thing is really rust free so I was surprised by the extent of the corrosion.
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  #4  
Old April 21st, 2009, 12:31 PM
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Rich Campbell
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Wow. what is the best way to stop/treat corrosion on aluminum?
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  #5  
Old April 21st, 2009, 12:37 PM
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Remove the steel that is corroding it and it will not get any worse.
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  #6  
Old April 21st, 2009, 01:01 PM
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Andrew Najarian
'93 NAS D110 #43
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Yeah, they all do it. My 110 wasn't too bad, but probably similar to yours Ron. I did the same, cleaned it, primed, painted and reinstalled with AL rivets. I'm not sure about the 90, but on my 110 the rear door seal is sandwiched between the galv. piece and the floor, so I didn't bother painting the bottom of it, but that sounds like a pretty good idea.
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Old April 21st, 2009, 03:44 PM
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Loic Fabro
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Where do you guys buy AL rivets? Local hardware store? I think I only ever saw steel rivets at my local HD/Lowe's (but I also was not looking for them..
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  #8  
Old April 21st, 2009, 03:47 PM
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Mine came with my riveter from sears.
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  #9  
Old April 27th, 2009, 04:44 PM
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Charles Galpin
'94 D90 ST, '63 SeriesIIA
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First let me take this opportunity to say "Damn you Ron" for enabling me. Ok, so just when I thought I'd gotten over the hump on my last project ( a simple gas tank repair turned into rust prevention on the frame and rear cross member, sand blasting and powdercoating my light bar and tire carrier and $100 worth of SS hardware ) he brings this up. So I taker a look and sure enough mine was worse that I has expected given no external evidence.

http://lhsw.com/gallery/d90_fuel_tank/DSC04106
http://lhsw.com/gallery/d90_fuel_tank/DSC04107
http://lhsw.com/gallery/d90_fuel_tank/DSC04108

I put some touchup paint on it, and will try to remember to take pictures before I close it up. Want to paint some galvanizing on the bottom of the "strip" though first snce thats what was rusting.
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  #10  
Old April 27th, 2009, 05:06 PM
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Did you get all the screws out? On yestie, I snapped a couple heads off and I had to drill the remaining portions out. If you don't remove them completely, it will continue to corrode. Also, take this opportunity to clean under your rear mat.

edit: while you are down there, stick a hose (air or water) in the reinforcing ribs under the tub and clean out all the dirt. when you are satisfied that it is clean inside, spray the inside with waxyoil or your rustproofer of choice.
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  #11  
Old April 27th, 2009, 05:13 PM
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Jim Cheney
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij
On yestie, I snapped a couple heads off and I had to drill the remaining portions out. If you don't remove them completely, it will continue to corrode. Also, take this opportunity to clean under your rear mat.
What do you mean on Yeastie? You mean Chiquita? On Yeastie I had to take that piece off, and send it out for powder coating. I then pulled the good galv one off on my yellow truck and put it on Yeastie. I was the one drilling out screws on Yeastie!

Follow-up Post:

Wait, I just realized that was a pointless comment. You probably took off a truly bad part and put on a "ron good" part. I then took off a "jim bad" part and had it fixed to make it "jim good." The screws obviously rusted in the interim.
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  #12  
Old April 27th, 2009, 05:20 PM
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Actually, now that I think about it, it was probably bryson. I knew I did it to one of them, but I guess it was not yeastie. I can check with Jason to see for sure, but IIRC I did not put it back on so it is probably sitting in my house somewhere. By the way, that spare transum plate I pulled off and had galvanized (which I thought was the one off that I never put back on), is not for a D90/D110 as it is too short and the lip is different.

Ron

PS I now have access to a sand blaster, so when is the next galvanizing run.
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  #13  
Old April 27th, 2009, 05:26 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij
Did you get all the screws out? On yestie, I snapped a couple heads off and I had to drill the remaining portions out. If you don't remove them completely, it will continue to corrode.
Yes. I rounded out the head on one, but just cut/chiseld a slot and got it out cleanly that way.

Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij
Also, take this opportunity to clean under your rear mat.
You think I was kidding about the "Damn you Ron" bit? Yes, removing this lead to removing the seat and seatbelt brackets (to be cleaned and painted), and removal of the mat since it had dirt under it and also appeared to have moisture under it. Of course the mat needs replacing, leaving me pondering line-x or the like...

Oh and I'm struggling to get the last bolt out that holds the rear interior cage pieces out so I can treat them too. That rearmost bolt is located in a spot where you can't get any torque on it.

At least I have an excuse to run it without the rear cage for a while I kind of like the look. Of course with the spare tire and troy boxes and rear seat etc etc all out the rear rides about 2 inches higher now so it looks like I'm trying to hot rod it

Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij
edit: while you are down there, stick a hose (air or water) in the reinforcing ribs under the tub and clean out all the dirt. when you are satisfied that it is clean inside, spray the inside with waxyoil or your rustproofer of choice.
I clean the ribs out religiously after off roading. I should waxoyl there now since I cleaned any rust and painted above and around the tank, and the rear cross member

http://lhsw.com/gallery/d90_fuel_tank?page=2

charles
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  #14  
Old April 27th, 2009, 05:32 PM
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You painted the underside, they rust from the top down which is what I was getting at (or stop off roading and be like me and park your D90 in a garage at home and at work ).

Ron
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  #15  
Old April 27th, 2009, 05:36 PM
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Charles Galpin
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I know you mean the inside of the ribs.

No, the plan is to get a 1970 88", fix that up and baby it. Just got to work on the wife a little more. Hell who am I kidding, I can't handle 2 let alone 3. Not going to stop me though :D
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  #16  
Old April 28th, 2009, 11:42 AM
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Mike
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Where the middle xmember attatches to the inner frame rails is also another area to address. When I waxoyled my Defender, I removed the exhaust, middle xmember and the fuel plate to treat those areas.

Cheers...
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