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  #1  
Old March 1st, 2010, 12:46 PM
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Cliff Weinstein
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Under carriage

Hello All. Here is the problem, looking for an efficient solution.

I've driven the truck about 7 times back and forth to southern Vermont over the past 2 months. I am now done with snowboarding for the winter and will not be taking any more trips back there till next year. There is build up on the undercarriage from the salt, dirt, snow, etc... I need to remove this and protect it till next year. I take it through the car wash everytime i return from vermont and they spray the undercarriage, that only cleans so much. Below are my thoughts, if anyone has a better idea, please let me know. Also, I know that waxoyl would be best but it is not an option for me right now.

Ideally i would like to get it up in the air to powerwash it and really get in there but i dont have access to a lift. I have access to a powerwasher. Do i powerwash first then spray on some sort of coating? I think armorall has a product. Should I use a specific cleaner first then powerwash? Should i even use a powerwasher at all? Should i just apply wd40 and then wipe clean or scrub?

I plan on doing this saturday. I'm looking for a solution that takes a few hours and keeps my truck rust free for now. A quick step by step recommendation and any specific products would be great. Thanks.
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  #2  
Old March 1st, 2010, 12:53 PM
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everyone will have their own opinions on this topic...
from 12 years of Defender ownership in the salt belt Fluid Film is by far the best product I have found to date
cheap, easy to apply, non-permanent, and it works
I like the aerosol can, and buy it off ebay
click here---> Fluid Film
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  #3  
Old March 1st, 2010, 01:09 PM
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If you have to go with the simple option, WD40 will provide a decent amount of protection. Just go buy the gallon can and the spray bottle and go to town. Its definitely better than doing nothing.
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  #4  
Old March 1st, 2010, 02:42 PM
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Charles Galpin
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More than anything, getting it thoroughly clean is the key IMO. Clean it, come back an hour later and inspect - you'll be surprised what you missed.
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Old March 1st, 2010, 03:06 PM
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I used to do the WD40 spray down. Then Kyle introduced me to Fluid Film, which he was/is using on his Unimog for snow plowing.
I guess you could get a gallon of WD40 and pour it into a lawn and garden pump sprayer thing with a wand.
I prefer Fluid Film over WD40 because it penetrates much better, and last a whole lot longer.
I sprayed some on the lock mechanism of our wrought iron driveway gate. It has been about three months and it still has plenty of Fluid Film on it. Only thing to date that seems to keep it rust free and lubed up despite all the ice, rain, sun, and salt. My D110 looks new underneath, and considering how much salt has been on the roads this winter. If you drive down just about any street in KC there is so much salt-dust its like driving down a dry gravel road!
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  #6  
Old March 1st, 2010, 03:51 PM
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I know there is a great power wash place in the Bronx. the guy puts the truck up on a lift and steam cleans the underside. I know Jorge on the board here uses him all the time after wheelin' trips.... I would try him out.
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  #7  
Old March 1st, 2010, 06:26 PM
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an oscillating sprinker would probably be able to wash off the salt that you can't get due to the nature of the pressure wand
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  #8  
Old March 1st, 2010, 07:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gore Ranger View Post
an oscillating sprinker would probably be able to wash off the salt that you can't get due to the nature of the pressure wand
My BIL, who is absolutely anal about cleaning his cars, used to use the sprinkler on the underside of his BMW.
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  #9  
Old March 1st, 2010, 07:15 PM
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http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct...tNumber=667637

"CLP" is exponentially better than WD-40 in salt spray testing. You should be able to find it by the gallon too.
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  #10  
Old March 1st, 2010, 09:41 PM
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different path here but we use a product called Salt Away on boats. www.saltawayproducts.com
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  #11  
Old March 1st, 2010, 10:03 PM
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I know someone who cleans the underside of his D90 with a brush and then hand waxes the chassis. $25 for a can of waxoyl for the interior of the door channels, pillars of the bulkhead and rear cross member would be well spent. Or make your own. I have a bunch here that I made but campell and I have not got around to putting it on our trucks.
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  #12  
Old March 1st, 2010, 10:07 PM
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Steam clean the underside, them mix old engine oil with turpentine and spray or paint it on, it works like a cheap form of waxoil, this is how i used to protect the chassis of my series land rovers back in the day!
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  #13  
Old March 1st, 2010, 10:34 PM
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A while back I found this home brew recipe for Waxoyl. I have no idea if it compares to the real deal.

Here is a recipe for home made "Waxoyl". It's an old fashioned rust treatment / undercoating:

2 1/2 quarts turpentine
12 oz. beeswax / candle wax
1 quart light machine oil

With a cheese shredder, cut the wax into the turpentine, stir until the wax has dissolved, (takes a long time; you can use very low heat (a warm room) to aid but be careful) and thin with the machine oil to a brushable / sprayable consistency. Apply liberally. You can use a hand spray bottle to get into closed-off sections if you have a small access hole.


Please be sensible when you make this stuff; don't go breathing the fumes or applying heat and burning down your house. If you have any doubts about it, err on the side of caution and just buy a commercially available product.
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  #14  
Old March 1st, 2010, 10:43 PM
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Cliff you do understand that once you clean it, I will drag you out to go wheeling with me and it will get real dirty again
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  #15  
Old March 1st, 2010, 10:51 PM
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Just go to the pay and spray and empty your change jar, the salt will be on the road til april at least. Salt needs to be disolved and sprayed off, you can't wipe it off. Thats why I used to bring my shotgun into the shower after going sea duck hunting. Come spring you can worry about treating the frame.
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Old March 2nd, 2010, 07:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hamiamham View Post
different path here but we use a product called Salt Away on boats. www.saltawayproducts.com

I have used that to flush out the Sea-Doo's Grea Stuff.....
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  #17  
Old March 2nd, 2010, 01:17 PM
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Thats why I used to bring my shotgun into the shower after going sea duck hunting.
Used to? So why did you stop? Bad accident?
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  #18  
Old March 2nd, 2010, 09:34 PM
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Cliff Weinstein
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Thanks for the advice. Spoke to Rusty at the ruststore.com, guy knows about rust. He agreed with you guys, spray with salt away, powerwash, and then apply fluid film. Ordered the supplies, will give you an update after saturday. The guy in the bronx could be very useful as well.
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Old March 2nd, 2010, 11:14 PM
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Did Rusty say anything about removing the rust before applying Fluid Film? I only have rust on my rear crossmember. Some of it I can access but it continues into the inside of the rear cross member where I will never be able to get to it. How do I stop the corrosion on the inside of the rear crossmember?

Quote:
Originally Posted by merlin8ty View Post
Thanks for the advice. Spoke to Rusty at the ruststore.com, guy knows about rust. He agreed with you guys, spray with salt away, powerwash, and then apply fluid film. Ordered the supplies, will give you an update after saturday. The guy in the bronx could be very useful as well.
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  #20  
Old March 3rd, 2010, 08:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Manimal View Post
Did Rusty say anything about removing the rust before applying Fluid Film? I only have rust on my rear crossmember. Some of it I can access but it continues into the inside of the rear cross member where I will never be able to get to it. How do I stop the corrosion on the inside of the rear crossmember?
I bought the aerosol can because I do not have an air compressor, the can comes with a straw similar to WD40

before I sprayed my D110 with Fluid Film I took it to the car wash and stuck the wand in every hole, nook and cranny until the water came out clean, there was some mud, road grime, and sand
let it dry over night, then spray the Fluid Film all over and inside every hole, up in the doors ect
if an area is covered with a layer of film it will stop the rusting process
you could use POR and then follow up with Fluid Film
I find myself using it in place of other products around the house
oh, and one last note, do not spray the exhaust or any other hot areas, it will smoke for a day or two, it does not like extreme heat
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