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  #1  
Old October 8th, 2007, 08:24 PM
Andrew Vick
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Ujoint replacement

I've got a bad ujoint at the diff end, and the bolts on the brake drum end spin freely. I'm assuming I'll have to cut the nuts off to get that end undone, but if anyone has other advice, I'm open.

Should I replace the ujoints at both ends, or just the one that is bad? They were both done 2 years ago, but I think crappy ujoints were used.

Thanks!
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  #2  
Old October 9th, 2007, 08:17 AM
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Charles Galpin
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Definitely do both joints.

Are you sure they spin freely? Mine feel loose, but hold fine when wrenching on the nut. I assume you will have to cut off those nuts, remove the drum and brake assembly, and then the flange to get new studs on it. But you do want to address that. Ouch.

charles
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  #3  
Old October 9th, 2007, 08:29 AM
Andrew Vick
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One of the nuts on the drum side came off fine, but it's a different nut. It has a flanged shoulder and isn't a locking nut. The others just spin and spin, so one is now cut off with 2 more to go. Once that's off, I'm wondering how I'll secure the new bolts from the back side. Any help there would be really appreciated.
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  #4  
Old October 9th, 2007, 08:53 AM
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Charles Galpin
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Once you get the brake drum off you should be able to remove one of those cut off bolts and determine how they fasten to the flange. Hopefully someone else knows more about this, sorry.
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  #5  
Old October 10th, 2007, 07:14 AM
Andrew Vick
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Update. The don't fasten to the flange. They are held in place by the head of the bolt sitting flush against the shoulder of the flange, just like the diff end of the front shaft. Don't yet know why those heads seem too small, but they'll get replaced.

What size nut holds the flange on? Thing is huge!
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  #6  
Old October 10th, 2007, 08:06 AM
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Charles Galpin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew Vick
Update. The don't fasten to the flange. They are held in place by the head of the bolt sitting flush against the shoulder of the flange, just like the diff end of the front shaft.
Yeah that makes sense. Good news!
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  #7  
Old October 10th, 2007, 09:51 AM
Andrew Vick
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew Vick
What size nut holds the flange on? Thing is huge!

Sounds like 30mm. Can anyone confirm?
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  #8  
Old October 14th, 2007, 04:37 PM
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I think my diff side u joint is bad as well. It makes an awful grinding sound when spinning. I thought I had a rock in the muffler by the sound of it. Do you guys think it could be done?

Ok joking aside, where should I get my new u joints? I plan to replace all 4 of them.
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  #9  
Old October 14th, 2007, 09:20 PM
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Charles Galpin
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All the regular places. George at RDS, Rovers North, etc.
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  #10  
Old October 14th, 2007, 09:36 PM
rmuller
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diff flange? 32mm
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  #11  
Old October 14th, 2007, 09:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cgalpin
All the regular places. George at RDS, Rovers North, etc.
yeah, George has the best prices as usual. I was wondering if anyone used ant aftermarket u joints that may be a little better.
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  #12  
Old October 14th, 2007, 10:14 PM
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Julien Dalbin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mdmccallum
yeah, George has the best prices as usual. I was wondering if anyone used ant aftermarket u joints that may be a little better.

www.floridapowertrain.com
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  #13  
Old October 14th, 2007, 10:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JFD
Umh, what about it? I can't find any u joints on the site.
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  #14  
Old October 14th, 2007, 10:58 PM
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Julien Dalbin
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Send them a mail. They have Dana Spicer that will fit your truck.
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  #15  
Old October 14th, 2007, 11:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JFD
Send them a mail. They have Dana Spicer that will fit your truck.
Thanks.

I don't kow about the Dana spicer. Is it better than OEM?
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  #16  
Old October 14th, 2007, 11:12 PM
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Chris Baldewin
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Diff flange is 30mm, four bolts should be 10mm x 1.25 pitch and lenth is 30 or 35mm. Head size of 10mm bolts should be 14mm.

CB
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  #17  
Old October 15th, 2007, 08:22 PM
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Julien Dalbin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mdmccallum
Thanks.

I don't kow about the Dana spicer. Is it better than OEM?
According to people on Tom Wood's website, yes.
According to my experience, can't tell because I have
the parts but didn't do the job yet, parts looks pretty all right,
greasing nipple is on the side.

http://www2.dana.com/expert/wc.dll?h...rts~locatea_ld
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  #18  
Old October 16th, 2007, 12:21 AM
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Mike
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JFD
According to people on Tom Wood's website, yes.
According to my experience, can't tell because I have
the parts but didn't do the job yet, parts looks pretty all right,
greasing nipple is on the side.

http://www2.dana.com/expert/wc.dll?h...rts~locatea_ld

Well I just pulled mine awaiting the replacement u joint from George at RDS. It was pretty darn easy. So why pay $250 for a u joint when they are this easy to replace? I guess its just personal preference.

now I need to work on that pinion angle. What is the correct rear pinion angle again?
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  #19  
Old October 16th, 2007, 12:32 AM
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Charles Galpin
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Pressing the u-joint out/in can be a pain without a press, but no u-joint is worth $250

I am not sure, but I believe you want the pinion to be parallel to the output shaft of the transfer case.

hth
charles
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  #20  
Old October 16th, 2007, 09:21 PM
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Julien Dalbin
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250 ?

I pay 40 for each Dana...
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