u-joint zerk fitting location - end cap or body? - Page 2 - Defender Source
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  #21  
Old March 19th, 2010, 01:56 PM
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David Short
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I do not understand....?

Forgive my ignorance.... but what is wrong with the typical u-joint with the zerk in the valley?
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  #22  
Old March 19th, 2010, 02:02 PM
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I guess it makes the cross a bit weaker. not sure by how much and I doubt it will ever be an issue for those of us running less extreme setups

Quote:
Originally Posted by Firemanshort View Post
Forgive my ignorance.... but what is wrong with the typical u-joint with the zerk in the valley?
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  #23  
Old March 19th, 2010, 10:36 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Supposedly weaker in the cross, but that's not my beef.

1. I'm a cheap bastard and just on principle I object to paying $33-$38 for a part I can get for $12 that is supposedly better than the more expensive ones.

2. I like to play on rocks, and have seen many a driveshaft u-joint grind away on a rock, and believe the zerk sticking out of the end of the caps will shear off if I ever do this. I'll take a picture of one of my yokes tomorrow when I re-assemble to show that this is not an *IF* but a *WHEN* scenario.

The zerk goes by one of the red arrows.

charles
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  #24  
Old March 20th, 2010, 12:47 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Shockingly look what I found when I pulled my old shaft. And note how the zerk is exposed.

I also put a few more pics here: http://gallery.lhsw.com/d90_driveshaft
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  #25  
Old March 20th, 2010, 12:49 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Oh stupid question I have asked before I think but don't recall the answer and my observations leave me wondering - which is the correct end to put the slip joint - top or bottom. Also, do the yoke ends need to be in phase or out of phase 90 degrees or does it not matter?
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  #26  
Old March 20th, 2010, 06:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by huck1974 View Post
GBR double cardin shafts front and read. zerks not on the caps. I dont know what ones he uses though. Call Bill. He is awesome help.
Just installed two GKN u-joints from Bill, and the zerks are on the end-caps. This was for an RRC, though- don't know if they are different for D-90's. He told me that the older style, with the zerk in the middle, is weaker. I know that it is definitely easier to grease the zerks that are on the ends. I'd also think shearing one, which can obviously happen, is a rarity.
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  #27  
Old March 20th, 2010, 09:34 PM
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Tom Rowe
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A 1310 and 1300 (stock for D90's) series u-joints with flush fittings.
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/s.../1310-1300.jpg
(I still haven't figured out how to insert an inline image here LOL)

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  #28  
Old March 21st, 2010, 08:59 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Tom, just click "Go Advanced" below, and then scroll down to see the "Manage Attachments" button. Should be obvious from there other than take note of the size restrictions.

Thanks for the picture. I haven't taken the time to figure out the thread size/pitch but at some point I'll plug at least the bottom side zerk holes to avoid sheering them.

hth,
charles
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  #29  
Old March 22nd, 2010, 06:07 AM
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Tom Rowe
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Yeah, I know how to add an attachement, I was talking about an inline photo that's on another site. like mine on photobucket. I think the forum jus isn't configured to allow that, to keep the page load time short.
The Neapco 1-0005 takes a 1/4-28 as does the slip joint.
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  #30  
Old March 22nd, 2010, 08:59 AM
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Charles Galpin
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Yeah probably. It would be nice to be able to reference actual attachments Attachment 25832 inline, but this appears to be all you get with the current settings.
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