Two new things to fix. Raidus Arm Bushing and Parking brake - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old October 1st, 2012, 08:49 AM
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Two new things to fix. Raidus Arm Bushing and Parking brake

Back from a great weekend of offroading in Rausch Creek. Truck did wonderfully, and I thought nothing broke.

Came home, was washing the truck and realized my left front wheel was able to be moved front to back with very little force (i actually just touched it with the brush I was washing the car with). I see I have a beat up front radius arm bushing, with 1/4-1/2" of play in it. I never noticed this before but it could have been there all along. I doubt you can destroy a bushing in one weekend (although I do remember one pretty hard hit that wheel took on a rock). Do these need to be pressed in/out? Looks pretty easy to disconnect, just wasn't sure if the whole arm has to be taken out and brought to a machine shop


Issue #2, my parking brake seems to be getting stuck a little. I'll engage it (lever is pulled pretty far up but its always been this way). Then it will not release when I put the lever down and you feel/hear it on when you go to move. Drive 10' and it dis-engages? I'll see if I can just spray some silicone on the cables if that helps... otherwise not sure what it would be? maybe some water/mud got in there and I need to take it apart and clean it? anyone have other ideas?
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  #2  
Old October 1st, 2012, 09:42 AM
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#1: no press needed but it helps. The front 2 bushes can be pounded out with sockets and a hammer. The rear can be pried or cut off the truck if it is stuck.

#2 Had the same issue, my cable was shot and the return springs on the ebrake were weak. I just replaced it with an Xbrake and called it a day.


If you want to press out the bushes, I have a press at my house you can come do the job with
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Old October 1st, 2012, 09:46 AM
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Ok - thanks!

I just ordered the bushes, I may take you up on that offer


as for the e-brake. Trying to get it fixed before the weekend. Took the rear drive shaft off now. Tried WD-40 and it didn't work. There is too much slack but I cant turn the adjuster screw either. Gonna take the drum off and see what I see
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Old October 1st, 2012, 09:50 AM
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Originally Posted by bossman429 View Post
Ok - thanks!

I just ordered the bushes, I may take you up on that offer


as for the e-brake. Trying to get it fixed before the weekend. Took the rear drive shaft off now. Tried WD-40 and it didn't work. There is too much slack but I cant turn the adjuster screw either. Gonna take the drum off and see what I see


When you say toy cant turn the adjuster do you mean the square lug on the side of the drum assembly or do you mean the cable double nut adjustment?

both can be fiddled with to take up slack in the system

The square lug on the drum assembly backing plate moves the entire shoe set.

The cable double nut just moves the cable end relative to the handle in the truck
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Old October 1st, 2012, 10:11 AM
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Matt I may need to come by as well. I have some new bushings for my panhard that I was thinking of dropping off at a shop this weekend to have done.
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Old October 1st, 2012, 10:15 AM
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Ok - can't get this thing off.

I cant budge the square lug on the back of the drum. I can back the 15mm bolt just below it all the way out.

The cable has slack in it. But it feels like the shoes are engaged. Its very difficult to spin the drum assembly. I'm assuming this is why i cant get get the drum off
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Old October 1st, 2012, 10:36 AM
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yep...sounds like the drum shoes arent releasing...try gently tapping the outside of the drum with a hammer..at least enough to release the shoes..or re-assemble and drive for a bit..park and dont pull the handbrake on (reflex action..LOL..).. try heating the square nut (well not the nut but the threaded section it goes in)..that sometimes helps...as far as the front bushings go..they are plastic outsides and can someties be a bitch to press in as they want to buckle..I find its best to grind a small leading edge chamfer on one side...plenty of grease on the bushing and its receptacle..put the bushings in a short tube that fits snug around it and then press them into the arms from that...keeps them from buckling out..
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Old October 1st, 2012, 10:57 AM
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Hit the drum hard. Don't be gentle.....

Once released, pull the whole assembly off of the truck and overhaul it. It is about an hour job. I do mine once a year. The mud is not great for them.
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Old October 1st, 2012, 11:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rijosho View Post
Matt I may need to come by as well. I have some new bushings for my panhard that I was thinking of dropping off at a shop this weekend to have done.


No prob. I'm waiting on a tool to replace my injector pump then the garage will be clear. Otherwise it's jacks and stands outside
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  #10  
Old October 1st, 2012, 11:57 AM
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Hit the drum hard. Don't be gentle.....

Once released, pull the whole assembly off of the truck and overhaul it. It is about an hour job. I do mine once a year. The mud is not great for them.
This.
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Old October 1st, 2012, 11:58 AM
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Ok - finally got the adjuster to loosen up. had to step up to a big adjustable wrench to get enough tq on it (didn't want to to this at first b/c I thought I'd break it). backed it way out and was ablt to get the drum off along with some whacks with a rubber mallet

I cleaned up and lubricated what I could. Also took up the slack in the cable on the other adjuster. felt like the linkage just inside the assembly is where the hang up is. Half a can of WD-40 later it seems to have freed up After fiddling with the adjustment for about 25 minutes I think I got it right. Seems to work now. (engages much lower in the pull too) I still want to take the whole assembly apart, clean it real good and put it back, but I dont feel like doing it on my back. Next time I have it on a lift I'll do that.


Ordered new bushings, should be in Wednesday. If I can take the radius arm off easily I'll just have NAPA press them out/in. Not worth my time to rig it for hours on my back in my drive way.


Trying to take a trip up to Mt. Washington w/ the truck next weekend and hoping to sort these issues out before then. neither seem to be major that would stop me from going, but I'm sure the bushing would help with the ride quality a bit.
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Old October 1st, 2012, 12:04 PM
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I suggest doing one arm at a time..if you remove both there is nothing stopping the diff from rolling..also makes lining things back up easier...also..if you have a lift kit might behoove you to get the offset ones for castor correction..
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Old October 1st, 2012, 12:11 PM
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The bolts holding on the radius arms at the axle are a bear to get out and often are corroded on the shafts (ie you might have to replace them).
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Old October 1st, 2012, 12:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the rover shop View Post
I suggest doing one arm at a time..if you remove both there is nothing stopping the diff from rolling..also makes lining things back up easier...also..if you have a lift kit might behoove you to get the offset ones for castor correction..
Was planning on doing one at a time. for sure

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Originally Posted by evilfij View Post
The bolts holding on the radius arms at the axle are a bear to get out and often are corroded on the shafts (ie you might have to replace them).

Just saw that on a youtube vid. Worst case I cut them and put new grade 8 in there

Edit: Just put my impact gun on the nuts/bolts and they all were easy to take off. I have to say for as mudded up as I've had this thing, and as old as it is. Knock on wood I have stripped or broken a single bolt or nut on it. I guess waxoyl really does work!
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Old October 1st, 2012, 03:01 PM
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Was planning on doing one at a time. for sure




Just saw that on a youtube vid. Worst case I cut them and put new grade 8 in there

Edit: Just put my impact gun on the nuts/bolts and they all were easy to take off. I have to say for as mudded up as I've had this thing, and as old as it is. Knock on wood I have stripped or broken a single bolt or nut on it. I guess waxoyl really does work!
The nuts off is the easy part. Getting the bolt out from the bushing is the hard part.
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Old October 1st, 2012, 03:38 PM
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The nuts off is the easy part. Getting the bolt out from the bushing is the hard part.
If the bolt is spinning in the bushing i can't imagine it not sliding out?
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  #17  
Old October 1st, 2012, 03:50 PM
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Originally Posted by JSBriggs View Post
If the rubber is delaminated, and the bolt is seized to the inner sleeve, then its going to be some work. Do you have access to a sawzall just in case?

-Jeff
yes, and a cut off wheel, and a torch, and a can of gasoline and lighter if need be
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Old October 1st, 2012, 04:19 PM
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OK, your good.



-Jeff
Air chisel with punch end fitting thing!
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  #19  
Old October 1st, 2012, 05:07 PM
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These seized up on a fewof my E30s...i would just ligh tthe rubber with a blowtorch and let it burn for 10 min or so.

then just tap out the outer sleeve with a hammer.


the easy and dirty way
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  #20  
Old October 1st, 2012, 05:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Naplm00 View Post
These seized up on a fewof my E30s...i would just ligh tthe rubber with a blowtorch and let it burn for 10 min or so.

then just tap out the outer sleeve with a hammer.


the easy and dirty way
Don't breathe those fumes those are terrible for you.
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