Turning Radius Issue - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old March 6th, 2013, 10:44 AM
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Stephan Laputka
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Turning Radius Issue

My truck turns farther to the right than it does to the left. Going left, the turning radius is probably double and I can't figure out why. What I've done so far:

1. Tires are not rubbing

2. It's not hitting the steering stops

3. Disconnected the steering stabilizer and problem persists

4. Disconnected tie rod and drag link and each swivel will go the full range of motion to the steering stop

It has to be the box but I don't know what could have happened. There are no leaks, it doesn't go through fluid and is completely fine otherwise. Are there "steering stops" in the box itself that could have come out of adjustment? Could a LR tech have disconnected the pitman arm and reconnected it with the wheel a revolution off? When turning left, it's a hard stop on the steering, not a binding/rubbing feel. Any ideas or am I just out a steering box?

It's a 1995 NAS SW with Rovertym drag links and tie rod. Thanks
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  #2  
Old March 6th, 2013, 10:46 AM
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Your drag link or steering arm is bent
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  #3  
Old March 6th, 2013, 10:50 AM
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Stephan Laputka
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The drag link is straight. Steering arm doesn't look bent. I guess I can compare it against my brothers defender to be sure. If anything was bent though, my alignment would be out. the steering wheel is dead in the middle when going straight.
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  #4  
Old March 6th, 2013, 11:06 AM
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It is one of several things.

Easiest is to check and adjust your steering stops. Adjust them or remove them and see what the turning radius is with it all the way turned so the tires hit the radius arms, if they are roughtly similar, bob's your uncle and you solved your issue. My bet is on this.

Other is you lifted it and either the axle is being pulled over slightly due to the length of the panhard bar or something else.

Third is there is something wrong with the box or somehow you put the drop arm on wrong or you fitted a discovery drag link instead of a D90 one.

1 and 2 seem most likely.
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  #5  
Old March 6th, 2013, 11:31 AM
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Is your truck lifted 3 inches or so ?
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  #6  
Old March 6th, 2013, 11:57 AM
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It has Rovertym 2 inch springs.

I looked at the steering stops and it's 100% not contacting the stops at full lock when going left, only when turning to the right does it hit the stop.
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Old March 6th, 2013, 12:36 PM
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I'd guess that sometime in the past, maybe before you owned it, the pitman arm had been removed and not re-centered properly. Have you ever had the pitman arm off ? You say it's hitting the bump stop on one side, try turning that stop in further to make the wheel turn even sharper. You may even have to take your wheels off & turn the bump stop in (or remove the bolt all together) all the way to get to the point where the steering box limits the travel on that side.
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Old March 6th, 2013, 12:48 PM
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So turn the stop in more on the right and see what happens.
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  #9  
Old March 6th, 2013, 01:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij View Post
So turn the stop in more on the right and see what happens.
I bet its steering stop adjustment issues.
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  #10  
Old March 6th, 2013, 02:57 PM
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Pitman arm is splined such that it can't be put in just any position.

------ Follow up post added March 6th, 2013 03:01 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by sflash868 View Post
It has Rovertym 2 inch springs.

I looked at the steering stops and it's 100% not contacting the stops at full lock when going left, only when turning to the right does it hit the stop.
I asked because lifting the truck without an adjustable panhard rod would create that problem but 2 inches shouldn't throw it off.
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  #11  
Old March 6th, 2013, 04:06 PM
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Stephan Laputka
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I have not take the pitman arm off but I did have a shop install the Rovertym links so maybe they took it off without my knowledge. How would I check that it's properly aligned?
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Old March 6th, 2013, 08:56 PM
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with the front wheels off the ground and steering at center count turns to the left and then to the right. It should be pretty close between left and right. If it is way off then when the shop did the work they didn't align everything up correctly and you will have to drop the pitman arm and do it correctly.
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  #13  
Old March 10th, 2013, 11:22 PM
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Stephan Laputka
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Ok, think I found the issue. I compared my steering setup against that of a stock Defender. The most glaring difference was the drag link. The Rovertym setup has threaded links on each end and the stock seems to have pinch bolts connecting to each link? Anyhow I noticed that the drag link on my truck was barely threaded onto each link. There is probably 1.5 inches of thread sticking out on both sides. I also counted the steering wheel revolutions and I have 1 less when turning left. I'm thinking the shop that installed the rovertym stuff did the install and alignment with the wheel one revolution off which is why they couldn't thread the links very far since they needed to get the wheels straight.

I think my fix is to jack up the front end, mark the wheels for straight, then turn one revolution to the right on the steering wheel, then thread in the drag link bar until the wheels match the old alignment points.

Am I thinking about this wrong?
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Old March 10th, 2013, 11:55 PM
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Sounds plausible.


Is the drop arm straight ahead or off to the side? It should be parallel to the frame. Just so you know, only the steering link behind the axle effects alignment. If the wheel is straight, then the drag link is fine so you don't need to worry about aligning anything other than the steering wheel.
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  #15  
Old March 11th, 2013, 09:35 AM
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Stephan Laputka
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I did not check the drop arm when straight but it has to be off to the left otherwise there would not be an issue. It has to be a misalignment when the drag link was installed. I looked at the drop arm at full lock to the left and it's close to hitting the frame but the wheels are only slightly turned. Furthermore, the steering stabilizer is almost fully extended, I probably have another inch of travel. The only way that would be is if the drag link was too long and I can make it shorter by threading the links in further. What I don't know, is if there is enough thread to adjust the wheel one full revolution.

I'm currently not near the garage otherwise I would post pics of what I mean
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  #16  
Old March 11th, 2013, 10:36 AM
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sounds more reasonable if the drop arm isn't parallel with the frame when the tires are centered

good luck, I think you may have found your solution!
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  #17  
Old March 17th, 2013, 04:50 PM
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Stephan Laputka
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Ok quick update. I was able to crack loose the jam nuts on the rovertym drag link and threaded it further on to each end link which shortened the overall length of the bar. Now the original issue is resolved, I can now turn equally far to both sides until the steering stops hit. New issue.. I'm out of thread on the drag link ends and the steering wheel is now 1/2 revolution off. I don't see how the drag link can be adjusted to center the wheel so is the answer to pull the steering wheel off and recenter or use a puller to get the drop arm off and then center the wheel?

My questions is then.. where the drop arm connects to the steering box, is that a splined shaft where I have lots of room for adjustment? I thought I read somewhere on the forum that there is a specific alignment that in turn will limit my ability to align everything.. So steering wheel or drop arm.. what do i do.. I need to make up a half revolution of the steering wheel.
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  #18  
Old March 17th, 2013, 06:39 PM
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Neither. You do not want to mess with your drop arm, they're a pain to get off usually. You also shouldn't need to mess with your steering wheel.
Download the RAVE.
With wheels straight get the exact measurement for the track rod and adjust accordingly.
The back of the steering box should have a hole in it that aligns with a notch in the drop arm. Put a punch or screwdriver in there to keep it aligned.
Adjust your panhard so the axle is centered, if applicable.
Now adjust your drag link to spec.
Drive it and check everything.
Tweak drag link slightly if necessary.

*Can somebody with a Defender verify this info is accurate? I have a D1 and I think the parts are the same.
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