Turning off 99 TD5 immobilzer? - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old August 17th, 2016, 04:11 PM
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Cool Turning off 99 TD5 immobilzer?

I have owned many TD5 Defenders, but this one requires you to press unlock on the key fob every time you turn it off. I want to get rid of that feature.

Does anyone know the procedure?
I have heard you need a code and you reset it by opening closing the drivers door and turning the ignition to II for 30secs, then repeat open-close turning the ignition on off to each number in the code.

Is this the only way? I don't have the code

Thanks
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  #2  
Old August 17th, 2016, 04:34 PM
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You should be able to get the EKA code from the dealership for free... Or from here http://www.mgrovercodes.com for 20 iirc... But I think that entering the code does the same job as using the fob

So you should first eliminate whatever invoking the immobiliser...

The immobiliser may be losing power when you shut down.

Or you it could be simply a faulty door switch that the system thinks you left the door open then it engages the immobiliser.

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Old August 17th, 2016, 05:17 PM
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Old August 17th, 2016, 05:54 PM
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Thank you for posting that.
Although my issue here is that I have the key fob, but I don't want press unarm every time I go to start. It drives me nuts.
It automatically arms after a few minutes of being off; it will not start until you press unlock.

Is there a way to eliminate this?
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Old August 17th, 2016, 05:59 PM
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Can't you just sell it?!
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  #6  
Old August 17th, 2016, 06:18 PM
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There's no way to eliminate the immobiliser... All you can do is to stop it from arming.

As I said above, I suggest you start by checking the door switch, if it's faulty it will arm the dreadful immobiliser.

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Old August 17th, 2016, 06:30 PM
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Ok. Any ideas how to check the door switch? I don't have factory cab lights. I am also curious, if the switch is faulty, how does that trigger the immobilizer? Hope it's that simple
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Old August 17th, 2016, 06:47 PM
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Could be door switch or the alarm going off while you are driving--both have happeend to me, Take out the speaker under the steering wheel and check to see if the green box is mounted, if it is loose, the alarm can go off and then it takes a few tries for the immobilizer to act properly.

The light is supposed to be synced to the unlock button. If the alarm has gone off while driving the light also doesn't behave

If you remap the ECU you can bypass the immobilizer with a wire. I'm not sure the remote will work at all at that point. You should try defender2.net those guys would have a better idea.
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  #9  
Old August 17th, 2016, 06:55 PM
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You need to remove the switch and check for continuity between the spade and the mounting screw when you press and release it, no continuity if pressed.

Then you need to check for continuity between the wire and the body. The door switch is wired directly to the alarm ecu (gray/white wire iirc). If this wire is earthed, the alarm ecu will think that you left the vehicle unattended and will arm.

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  #10  
Old August 17th, 2016, 07:00 PM
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Very useful info. I will check and let you know the result. Thanks

Just to clarify... It is not normal, or a security mode to have the Defender auto immobilize every time I turn it off and leave it?
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  #11  
Old August 17th, 2016, 07:26 PM
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no it sounds like the alarm is going off when you are driving or the issue at the drivers side door.
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  #12  
Old August 17th, 2016, 09:08 PM
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All that should be required is that the fob be within proximity of the ignition. This avoids the potential of anyone stealing or copying a key to steal your trusted steed.

I'l look through some of the literature I have on the 10As system and see if I can find the answer.
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  #13  
Old August 18th, 2016, 11:15 AM
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Could be that the "exciter" coil that's around the ignition barrel could be broken, this is what recognised the key fob when you've got the keys in the ign.

But if you get a nanocom or the like, just turn off "passive immobilisation" in the security setting to stop if from auto arming.

@ Ben01... it's a little more that just one wires to totally eliminate the 10AS from a Td5 ECU.

The 10AS is a pretty reliable unit though, so no real need to bin it.
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