Tuffy install ROW 110 - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old January 28th, 2013, 08:16 PM
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Dave
1986 RHD 110 SW OM617
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Tuffy install ROW 110

Before I start drilling holes, does anyone have any pictures, lessons learned or instructions on installing a TUFFY in a ROW vehicle? It is simple enough -- but thought there might be a recommended solution out there.

Thanks

------ Follow up post added January 28th, 2013 08:17 PM ------

By the way... the 'Charcoal Grey' is not really charcoal. Its really light grey, but I'm too cheap to pay for the shipping to send it back to get black. Just letting any potential tuffy buyers out there know
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  #2  
Old January 30th, 2013, 12:19 PM
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Gene
'83 110 CSW
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In my ROW 110 CSW there is a removable panel under the middle seat. I made a template then drilled through that. Put mounting bolts through it, heads on the underside, locked them down with nuts. Now have a panel w/ 4 bolts sticking up. Used 1" sound down (dense foam stuff) cut out some space for the nuts and drilled through for bolts. (A sandwich of foam between panel and tuffy.) Used acorn nuts on the inside of the console I may add a length of 1/2" angle iron to the length of the panel held down by the same bolts just to stiffen it up a bit. The panel flexes up a tad due to compressing the foam.

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Originally Posted by ontheway View Post
Before I start drilling holes, does anyone have any pictures, lessons learned or instructions on installing a TUFFY in a ROW vehicle? It is simple enough -- but thought there might be a recommended solution out there.

Thanks

------ Follow up post added January 28th, 2013 08:17 PM ------

By the way... the 'Charcoal Grey' is not really charcoal. Its really light grey, but I'm too cheap to pay for the shipping to send it back to get black. Just letting any potential tuffy buyers out there know
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  #3  
Old January 30th, 2013, 10:58 PM
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John Oates
1993 NAS Defender 110 #367/500
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The 110 kit comes with three bolts, all of which require 3 new holes to fit the Tuffy holes. I used the front hole, then drilled new holes in the tufty floor to match the existing two back holes. You can do this by anchoring the Tuffy in place, then drilling pilot holes from underneath the truck through the floor of the Tuffy box. That way you are only drilling one new hole. I just read the previous post on the padding - I wish I'd have added some type of pad below before adding spacers and installing.
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  #4  
Old April 20th, 2013, 11:16 PM
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Geoff
1993 Defender 110 NAS
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Awesome idea! Thank you for that. I just installed a Tuffy box this evening and did exactly this. I'm now using the 4 OEM bolts in the OEM position and drilled 3 holes in the tuffy. I didn't have any of the insulation, but I added dynamat to the bottom (underneath) of the box and black removable metal plate already had it on both sides. Very solid install.

My only complaint... drink holder did not fit in the front, so had to mount it to the rear. Better than nothing though!


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Originally Posted by coffee View Post
The 110 kit comes with three bolts, all of which require 3 new holes to fit the Tuffy holes. I used the front hole, then drilled new holes in the tufty floor to match the existing two back holes. You can do this by anchoring the Tuffy in place, then drilling pilot holes from underneath the truck through the floor of the Tuffy box. That way you are only drilling one new hole. I just read the previous post on the padding - I wish I'd have added some type of pad below before adding spacers and installing.
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  #5  
Old April 21st, 2013, 09:05 AM
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John Oates
1993 NAS Defender 110 #367/500
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you might try spacers or raising the cupholder a little - I was able to fit a cup holder in front and in back with no clearance issues. good luck.
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