Trying to Remove Front Door Upper Hinge Bolts - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old June 3rd, 2015, 05:12 PM
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Trying to Remove Front Door Upper Hinge Bolts

I'm not having any luck removing the front door upper hinge bolts, the side that attaches the hinge at the body, not at the door. Other than they have been painted over by the PO during the last respray, they are more than likely rusted.

I've tried spraying WD-40 on them, but I know that wasn't much help because the spray is not getting to the threads. I've even used a manual impact driver with the proper size bit on it, and the suckers won't budge. They are held by captive nuts and a retainer, correct?

All help, tips, ideas, etc are welcome.
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  #2  
Old June 3rd, 2015, 05:15 PM
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Drill
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Are there shocks that I can addjust up and down like my friends LX460? That would be very cool!
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  #3  
Old June 3rd, 2015, 05:18 PM
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As a last resort, yes. But I'm trying to avoid that for now. I have to remove them and put the same back on, if I can. I'm not rebuilding or changing doors.
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  #4  
Old June 3rd, 2015, 05:19 PM
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Yes, held in by a captive nut and like Barry said, drill them out.
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  #5  
Old June 3rd, 2015, 05:20 PM
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Drill head off bolt.
Pull hinge off and you can remove the old rusted bolt and captive nut.
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Are there shocks that I can addjust up and down like my friends LX460? That would be very cool!
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  #6  
Old June 3rd, 2015, 05:23 PM
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Get yourself on of these. http://www.craftsman.com/craftsman-i...8&blockType=G8

If that doesn't work go straight to the drill. Which you will likely be doing anyway. Its a #4 phillips.
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  #7  
Old June 3rd, 2015, 05:25 PM
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At least half of them will need to be drilled. The captive nuts rust solid. Stainless bolts and nuts probably help in the future.
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  #8  
Old June 3rd, 2015, 05:25 PM
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Barry nailed it. If they're original, they're almost certainly beyond saving. Drill the heads, wrestle whats left out and re-assemble using new captive nuts and hardware. Be sure to use a little anti-seize on the threads to save yourself the same headache down the road.

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  #9  
Old June 3rd, 2015, 05:30 PM
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I just did this. it took a ton of liquid wrench and some patience. One of mine was seized, but i just used a combination of the right phillips head, a vice grip, and a dead blow hammer. Finally got it out, but wasn't easy.

Do yourself a favor and just drill, then replace all of the bolts, captive nuts, and retainers for all the door hinges with stainless. It'll look much better and you won't have to worry about it again for as long as you have the truck.
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  #10  
Old June 3rd, 2015, 06:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RovingRyan View Post
Get yourself on of these. http://www.craftsman.com/craftsman-i...8&blockType=G8

If that doesn't work go straight to the drill. Which you will likely be doing anyway. Its a #4 phillips.

That's exactly what I used, to no avail. The consensus is to drill them out, and that's what I'll do.

Question: I need to replace them with slightly longer screws than the factory size, and will more than likely have to go to a hardware supplier to get those. What size are they? Diameter, pitch and length, anyone know?
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  #11  
Old June 3rd, 2015, 06:31 PM
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Why do you need longer screws?
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Are there shocks that I can addjust up and down like my friends LX460? That would be very cool!
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  #12  
Old June 3rd, 2015, 06:37 PM
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I ordered these and I believe they were a bit longer than stock but I'm not 100% sure.
The Stig Fasteners
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  #13  
Old June 3rd, 2015, 07:09 PM
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Stig is definitely the way to go. Great vendor. Will work with you to put a package together for your specific needs.
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  #14  
Old June 3rd, 2015, 07:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bjf View Post
Why do you need longer screws?

Working on a little project that requires sandwiching a piece of 1/8" sheet metal between the hinge and body.

Do you think that this additional "gap" will have an effect on the way the door lines up and closes?
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  #15  
Old June 3rd, 2015, 08:36 PM
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Use a Philips socket bit on a breaker bar
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  #16  
Old June 3rd, 2015, 08:46 PM
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You're going to replace the bolt and the captive nut. Drilling is the way to go.
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  #17  
Old June 7th, 2015, 10:05 AM
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Drilled them out yesterday, and both captive nuts and bolts were rusted. It appears as though they had been replaced in the past, because they were standard sizing not metric, and my understanding is they are supposed to have been 8mm x 50mm fine thread.
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  #18  
Old June 8th, 2015, 07:38 PM
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were they sae or whitworth? Or just some random pitch metric. regardless, other than the chassis and body, all the parts on the rover (largely and generally speaking) are standard hardware store fittings. Not much specialized in it. Quite possible they put in some not oem bolts. I just ordered a set of SS hardware (non oem standard) to replace my door hinge bolts.

I am able to get all my bolts out but 1. But they were all rusted. The fittings they chose originally are junk. Cheap crappy fittings throughout. I put anti-seize on everything I can get apart on an old truck like this. Especially something japanese or british.
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  #19  
Old June 8th, 2015, 08:40 PM
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I'm not actually sure at this point what they were exactly, but they were stainless and looked to have been replaced prior.

I ordered a new set from Rovahfarm and haven't received them yet. I'll report on them when they get here.
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  #20  
Old June 8th, 2015, 08:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Talleyrand View Post
Stig is definitely the way to go. Great vendor. Will work with you to put a package together for your specific needs.
X2 on stig. They are fast and reasonable for metric stainless

Land Rover Defender 4 Cab Door Stainless Hinge Screws (Hex Socket Button)
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