Trouble replacing Alpine window seal - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old July 31st, 2016, 09:27 AM
bnoonan
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Trouble replacing Alpine window seal

Hello all,

The rear quarters were easy. I watched the only alpine video I could find on YouTube, but it was on a Disco (those windows appear to be far easier to seat).

I've encountered a few recommendations on how to get these in, but all were exceptionally brief (so brief that I'm not certain I follow).
From what I've gathered:
1) wrap seal around window
2) put string/twine inside channel around seal (where the roof rim will go)
3) Set in place (as much as possible? may be able to get much of bottom set)
4) Have helper hold firmly in place from outside
5) from inside pull string at right angle to the window around the seal through window opening. it will pull the lip of the seal inside the window.

(some appear to grease the rubber with baby oil or spray silicone)
(a Lisle 47000 tool appears to be very helpful getting the bead in....mine will be here in 2 days)

Since I've got 2 days until my Lisle tool gets here to help me fill the hole in my Defender, I'd much appreciate any insight or guidance on how to best do this.
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  #2  
Old July 31st, 2016, 10:25 AM
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Mybluett
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Ditch the string, use a lot of lubrication (soapy water, wd40, etc..), use a couple plastic spreaders, use the channel tool when it comes in, and put a towel on the ground in case the glass slips out of your hand. Getting the glass in place is easy, getting the locking strip in place can be a SOB.
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  #3  
Old July 31st, 2016, 10:32 AM
bnoonan
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Am I correct though that you put rubber around glass, then insert it or would you put seal around hole and try to fit glass into it (that is how I did the back)
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  #4  
Old July 31st, 2016, 10:34 AM
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Rubber in the hole, glass into the rubber.
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  #5  
Old July 31st, 2016, 11:32 AM
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Mike Ferguson
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I replaced both of mine when I painted the top. Agree with no string. Place the rubber in the top with the gap on the bottom so water will be less likely to leak (I used a long straight piece of the gasket, not sure if they make a round on to match the hole). I used a screen door roller from Home Depot and a lot of armor all to get the lock strip in. It helps if you keep it warm while working with them. Good luck.
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  #6  
Old July 31st, 2016, 01:31 PM
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Rubber in hole, add spray Pam, set glass, more spray Pam on rubber where lock seats, insert lock...
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  #7  
Old July 31st, 2016, 02:31 PM
bnoonan
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Fantastic. Thanks to all of you for the advice. Much appreciated.
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  #8  
Old August 1st, 2016, 11:59 AM
PTSchram
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I use tire mounting lubricant.

Once you get over the fear of the glass breaking (so far, I have not broken a piece of glass on a Rover and have done a LOT of glass work!) it goes pretty well. The Alpine windows are easier than say a rear window on a Disco. Trust me when I say that will make you question your line of work!
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  #9  
Old August 1st, 2016, 12:09 PM
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Disco rear door glass is the worst!! I finally gave up and had the glass shop do it, and they said they would prefer not to do any more!
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  #10  
Old August 1st, 2016, 02:10 PM
bnoonan
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The cooking spray and window screen tool suggestions ended up working perfectly for me.
It gets a bit slippery but no real issues.

I:
1) Put rubber around hole in roof, seam at bottom.
2) Set glass into bottom and slid to one side, getting a bit of the top edge within the rubber as well. You can do pretty much the whole bottom and around one end without the cooking spray.
3) Spray and use flat screwdriver to lift lip around other end and top edge.
4) Spray channel with cooking spray and use screen roller tool to get it in.

With the cooking spray it took less than 10 minutes per side.
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  #11  
Old August 1st, 2016, 03:54 PM
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'Slick' trick ;-)
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  #12  
Old August 1st, 2016, 06:02 PM
PTSchram
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rovertrader View Post
Disco rear door glass is the worst!! I finally gave up and had the glass shop do it, and they said they would prefer not to do any more!

LOL-right after I started slinging Chrome, my son and I had three in a single week.

We used up all but one of my used rear window glass stock.

By the last, we were pretty good at it, but Boy Howdy I was still nervous as all get out. A big piece of glass with too many curves!
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  #13  
Old December 6th, 2016, 04:25 PM
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I am making preparations to replace my rear quarterlight and alpine window seals. Not leaking, but starting to show there age.

Where are you guys sourcing your seals? Any better alternatives then $50 a pop for the genuine alpine seals?
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  #14  
Old May 22nd, 2017, 08:04 PM
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Bringing this back to life as I'm about to do this - any thoughts on the best source for window seals? OME VS aftermarket?
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  #15  
Old March 19th, 2018, 11:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bnoonan View Post
The cooking spray and window screen tool suggestions ended up working perfectly for me.
It gets a bit slippery but no real issues.

I:
1) Put rubber around hole in roof, seam at bottom.
2) Set glass into bottom and slid to one side, getting a bit of the top edge within the rubber as well. You can do pretty much the whole bottom and around one end without the cooking spray.
3) Spray and use flat screwdriver to lift lip around other end and top edge.
4) Spray channel with cooking spray and use screen roller tool to get it in.

With the cooking spray it took less than 10 minutes per side.
I am about to attempt this this weekend as my seals are original and looking tired. I'm scared after reading so many horror stories.

I wish there was a shop I could just pay $100 bucks and be done with it...
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  #16  
Old March 19th, 2018, 12:10 PM
Tom109
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Two things, first I cut the rubber seal about +1-inch in length, and in the end everything forced into place - so no gap at the joint several years later. Second, I made a tool to insert the locking strip. You can buy them, but I only discovered they existed the day I planned the installation. Mine are made from wood dowels and cotter pins. Having the right tool makes this part MUCH easier.


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  #17  
Old March 19th, 2018, 01:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom109 View Post
Two things, first I cut the rubber seal about +1-inch in length, and in the end everything forced into place - so no gap at the joint several years later. Second, I made a tool to insert the locking strip. You can buy them, but I only discovered they existed the day I planned the installation. Mine are made from wood dowels and cotter pins. Having the right tool makes this part MUCH easier.
Thanks. I ordered the tool from Amazon. Going to try and get those and the rear 1/4 seals done this week.

I was in the process of rebuilding my SW sliding windows and I turned it into a project... Might as well replace all the rear glass seals now that my sliding windows look so nice... and might as well install these roll bar brackets I never put in... So now the back half of my truck is torn apart, windows out, trim out, sliding windows out, jump seats out.

Need to get it done before the weather finally breaks, ideally before the end of next weekend.
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  #18  
Old March 21st, 2018, 02:24 PM
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OK I got the new seal and glass in which was pretty brutal already. How the hell am I going to get this filler strip in? I have the Lisle tool.
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  #19  
Old March 21st, 2018, 02:28 PM
seriessearcher
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Lube! I have used dish soap, others have recommended hair spray which I do not think would work as well.
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  #20  
Old March 21st, 2018, 02:44 PM
sonoronos
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I found snap ring pliers to be more helpful than the lisle tool, personally.
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