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  #1  
Old February 3rd, 2005, 07:36 AM
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Transmission temperature gauge

I did a search and found nothing. Has anyone added a transmission temperature gauge to a R380? Any feedback on whether it is truly needed or not? I do not plan on towing anything. With all the problems I seem to be having I was thinking future prevention. But not sure if there is even a way to attach it to the Tranny.

Thanks,
Larry
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  #2  
Old February 3rd, 2005, 09:26 AM
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I really dont think it would be worth get a good synthetic Redline MTL and check it periodically. my .02$
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Old February 3rd, 2005, 09:37 AM
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Other then the syncros going (and if they did you could get by double clutching) I don't here about too many problems with them. I think you would have to drill and tap to get a sensor in the fluid.
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Old February 3rd, 2005, 10:15 AM
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Thanks guys appreciate the advice. I will not do it seems to be a waste of time. On a seperate line I am buying a new rear diff (i think its like 899.00 off atlantic british). Is there a upgrade part for that item that can bolt directly in? Which can use the same axels etc...? Idea of the price or site to look?

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Larry
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Old February 3rd, 2005, 10:30 AM
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WOW $900! They do make 4 pin diffs and I think Great Basin Rovers sells them, they are a bit stronger but the R&P are still weak. Not much else you can do that is bolt in as an upgrade.
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Old February 3rd, 2005, 10:32 AM
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is that WOW! as in good WOW! or WOW! as in your a jackass for spending that much money.
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  #7  
Old February 3rd, 2005, 10:36 AM
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thats highway robbery
Is your current diff broke or something? there are a plenty of upgrades, I imagine you could pull a detroit and some nice axles for that kinda of money.
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Old February 3rd, 2005, 10:46 AM
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LOL yes it is a bad wow, you can get a complete third member used for around $300. You could put a locker in but at the same time it's not a bad idea to put in HD axles. If you plan on running under 33" tires, you may be OK with an ARB, if you put a Detriot in I would put in HD axles. Or you could put in a Truetrack (limited slip) and you would be fine. What are your plans, or why do ou want to upgrade?

Follow-up Post:

Look here for pricing and ideas. I think Bill also will set it all up in a third and send it to you, then you send back your old one.

http://www.greatbasinrovers.com/diffs.html
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  #9  
Old February 3rd, 2005, 10:51 AM
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Not completely sure. I am pricing things out right now, work should be starting today as well. That seemed like a option for everything new (case, gears, seals and everything). Might only need something minor I should know from my mechanic today what is wrong. But I was thinking it would be a good time to upgrade now. Just do not know much about d90's parts 4x4 stuff etc... so not sure which way to go. I need something extremely reliable but has to ability to have some fun. Not sure if that exist with upgrades or not. Maybe staying stock is best. Any opinions would be greatly appreciated.

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Larry
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  #10  
Old February 3rd, 2005, 10:55 AM
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tru-trac from GBR and save alot of money for other things, that is an outrage to pay that much for a stock diff.

On another note this site is a wealth of information with a number of folks who know tons about the Defenders, keep reading.
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Old February 3rd, 2005, 10:55 AM
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So since I am not too sure, you have stock tires now, you maybe some time in move up to say 33s or smaller, what type of off roading have you done or do you want to try? In Florida you are only going to see mud and water, in NC you will see everything. Too keep it reliable I would either go with the 4 pin diff or the truetrac.
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  #12  
Old February 3rd, 2005, 11:10 AM
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Larry, check out http://www.floridalandroverclub.com. There's a bunch of good guys that can take you out and show you around when you're in Florida. Orlando-Tampa is where most of the active club members are, so you're in luck.

I wouldn't tear into a stock diff and NOT upgrade though. At least a TrueTrac if you're in there. And I think those are only $450 or so?
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Old February 3rd, 2005, 11:58 AM
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I work in NC where I do not like to call my residence. I usually try to go back to Orlando every 3-4 months so most of the 4 wheeling I attempt will be here in NC. I would eventually (this summer) like to drive out to moab or something along those lines. But my knowledge of off roading is extremely limited at this point and have a lot to learn before then.

Reliabilty and ride would be number 1 and 2. At the same time I want to be able to "handle" things that may arrise as im learning to not get stuck. (all prior knowledge ended with myself and friend being tower out, I would like to be the one doing the towing, or laughing as I go by). I am adding dual exhaust once the diff is done at that point I will decided if I am going larger in tires depending on power increase. I think they are stock at 265x75x16 but can not remember the exact size off the top of my head. The largest size tire I will go at this point will be 33.

This is where my complete lack of knowledge comes in. I am trying to limit the amount of work my mechanic does. Not because of money but because well he usually doesnt charge me anything and makes it extremely hard for me to pay him. I usually help him with computer stuff and he with vehicle stuff issues.

From reading the site mike suggested it seems Trutrac is a good option. What work would be involved with installing? Addition parts, axels? That would take care of what ever in my diff that is messed up at this time correct? Is that better then 4 pinion?

I can never tell by reading sites. They should tell you this is the best. this is the second this is the third.

Thanks again guys,
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  #14  
Old February 3rd, 2005, 12:08 PM
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Well noone can tell you what is best for you, diffrent people different needs. to help us along what happened to make you think something was wrong, and if/or he has pulled the diff what did he find?
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Old February 3rd, 2005, 12:15 PM
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Duals are lame? Why are you putting them on the D? do you think it will benefit you or something?
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Old February 3rd, 2005, 01:06 PM
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There are few things I would suggest not installing yourself, differentials are one of them. If you don't get the backlash and lateral spacing correctly, the gears are gone in 3000 miles. They need to be shimmed and have the mesh pattern set properly by a competent shop.

The truetrac would be a definite upgrade over the stock differential, I believe it us a 4-pin unit with a closed case. MUCH MUCH stronger. It's also not as harsh on the road as a full locker, nor does it require the maintenance of a clutch style posi unit.

As to the tranny temp gauge. Not a big issue in manual gearboxes. The heat may effect the gear oil over time, but it doesn't get as hot as an automatic tranny. With an automatic, it's recommended. Heat kills the clutch material in automatic trannies, and cooks the fluid REAL fast if you get it too hot. They also generate a lot more heat on their own as well, which is why they all have some type of cooler on them. Baked automatics need full rebuilds.

-Hans
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  #17  
Old February 3rd, 2005, 04:26 PM
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When I was coming back from a trip the rear end started grinding. At first thought it was universals but its not. I have not called him today to see what he found. I think a seal broke, fluid leaked and then who knows. Earlier in the trip I smelled that unmistakable oder. It was only when I was going close to 75. At 70 smelled nothing. Naturally most of the trip I went 65-70 after noticing that smell when going faster. From the sound it is making a gear is missing teath or something along those lines. So since its going to be pulled apart might as well upgrade.



Follow-up Post:

I spoke with Bill at Great Basin Rovers. He is a nice guy. Gave me lots of information. I think I will go with the TrueTrac. Just send him my diff and have him install it etc... About 200.00 less then the new one.

Thanks guys for all the help,
Larry
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  #18  
Old February 3rd, 2005, 06:12 PM
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There is also the ARB route..
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Old February 3rd, 2005, 07:06 PM
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MIght be a little extreme for me.
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  #20  
Old February 11th, 2005, 07:15 PM
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Ok guys, I have installed the True trac. But wanted to know about noise. Everyone said it is noisey but I want to make sure what I am hearing is the correct noise. Not sure if that makes sense or not. Now take into consideration that I have driven it for about 20 miles only since its been installed. I only hear noise when stop accelerating or coast. Not around corners (one time around corner). Nothing at high speed (55-65). Just when I press the clutch or take it out of gear.

Desription of sound would be. Sounds like gears turning. Maybe whining a little. Nothing high pitched. Not like it sounded before. No clunking or anything like that. Just like gears turning. But its gets fairly loud.

Question being is this the normal sound. Can nnyone who has the Detriot true trac give me an idea of the noise? Or am I smoking crack and got my dreads stuck in the bearing. Helpful hints please.

Also how do you turn off the check engine light. Code light? Im just driving it for the weekend before it goes back to the shop for bumper, sliders,oil pressure gauge, voltage gauge, and then most likely the sensor that is making the light come on. Just wondering for own person knowledge.

Thanks again guys for all the help,
Larry
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