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  #41  
Old August 25th, 2015, 10:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WeBeCinYa View Post
Surely there is a British shop in Pitts. Otherwise, put it on a uhaul and take it to Trevor at British 4x4 specialties. He did my trucks master, slave, and clutch in 2010 and knows what the hell he is doing.

Land Rover, Range Rover, Rover Repair | Elizabethtown, PA
^This. Trevor is honest, fair, and knows his Rovers (especially Series, Defenders, and the older stuff...though does newer LR3/etc).

AAA Premiere membership entitles you to (1) 200-mile tow per year with membership. Should be just about 200-miles from the Burgh to Trevor's place .
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  #42  
Old August 25th, 2015, 10:20 AM
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Russell
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As Doug and others have mentioned, wrenching on a Defender is as basic as it gets. Name a simpler platform?
The time and cost for pair of 400 mile round trips to sort out the clutch master cylinder or simply bleed the system sounds like a royal PITA to me.
There is nobody around Pittsburg that can lend the OP a hand? Where are all these guys? https://www.facebook.com/FPLRG
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  #43  
Old August 25th, 2015, 12:26 PM
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I received a call from the shop today that they needed some special tool for force the bleed into the hydraulics. They claim its mostly complete but some how the batteries are now dead....jumping it.

Next they are taking it out for a long test drive. I await their call for completion. I can only pray there is no other issue that pops up. If so - Im taking out of the shop.

Thanks all for your thoughts and advice!
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  #44  
Old August 25th, 2015, 12:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gmuiter View Post
I received a call from the shop today that they needed some special tool for force the bleed into the hydraulics. They claim its mostly complete but some how the batteries are now dead....jumping it.

Next they are taking it out for a long test drive. I await their call for completion. I can only pray there is no other issue that pops up. If so - Im taking out of the shop.

Thanks all for your thoughts and advice!
OK, now they are being ridiculous. I bled my clutch by myself without anything but a box end wrench.
1) Disconnect the return spring attached to the clutch pedal
2) While pushing the pedal down with your right hand open up the bleed screw using the wrench in your left hand.
3) Retighten the bleed screw before all the pressure is gone from the pedal
4) Repeat till there is no air and the pedal feels solid. You may need to top off the fluid as you do this.
5) Reattach the spring
6) Congratulate yourself for fixing your own problem.
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  #45  
Old August 25th, 2015, 12:39 PM
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Idiots.
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  #46  
Old August 25th, 2015, 12:50 PM
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Good grief. I hope no long term damage was done.
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  #47  
Old August 25th, 2015, 01:14 PM
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The problem is that if they can't bleed a clutch, which is exactly the same as every other clutch in the world, you can't trust any other work they have done.
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  #48  
Old August 25th, 2015, 01:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
The problem is that if they can't bleed a clutch, which is exactly the same as every other clutch in the world, you can't trust any other work they have done.
Exactly. Between the info the OP posted and the troll telling him to sell his truck I wish I lived closer so I could help the poor guy out. Who lives in or near the Pittsburg area that could give him a hand?
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  #49  
Old August 25th, 2015, 01:22 PM
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Hershey, PA is only 3 hours away from Pitt
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  #50  
Old August 25th, 2015, 05:41 PM
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Guys - thanks very much for the help. I'm cautiously optimistic that this saga is over. I got the call that the truck is complete. I test drove it and forked over the labor and shop fees.

The truck seems to be shifting fine though its a lot stiffer. There is no grind into any gear like my old transmission. The new clutch is a delight though as it grabs very early in the engagement. Also to note, all of the "slop" in the drive train is gone. Its a quieter truck now and so far, with 12 miles on the new trans., I am happy, finally.

Over all the repair took 5 weeks and I am disappointed to have that time taken away from our already short summers (not to mention the last 5 weeks here have been the summers best). But hopefully this is all behind me and I can get back to sinking money into it otherwise; repairs/improvements that which I can do on my own.

Thanks again for all the well wishes and help.

PS - Some one previously on this thread wanted to see the splines. Pictures attached. Seemed to be in fine shape.

Cheers!
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  #51  
Old August 25th, 2015, 07:15 PM
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Glad it's back, I hate ordeals like that! So whose taking the old one apart to see what was wrong? If you have the time it would be a good learning experience.
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  #52  
Old August 25th, 2015, 07:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ignotus View Post
Glad it's back, I hate ordeals like that! So whose taking the old one apart to see what was wrong? If you have the time it would be a good learning experience.

Would love to mess around with it but I have to send back to Atlantic British as my core return. I wonder if I can ask them to let me know what the issue was upon rebuild?
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  #53  
Old August 25th, 2015, 08:58 PM
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Originally Posted by gmuiter View Post
Would love to mess around with it but I have to send back to Atlantic British as my core return. I wonder if I can ask them to let me know what the issue was upon rebuild?
How much is the core charge ?
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  #54  
Old August 25th, 2015, 09:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gmuiter View Post
Guys - thanks very much for the help. I'm cautiously optimistic that this saga is over. I got the call that the truck is complete. I test drove it and forked over the labor and shop fees.

The truck seems to be shifting fine though its a lot stiffer. There is no grind into any gear like my old transmission. The new clutch is a delight though as it grabs very early in the engagement. Also to note, all of the "slop" in the drive train is gone.
What fluid is in the transmission.
If they put HP-90 or ATF, the new gearbox will have a short life.
MTF-94 is required.
http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produc...n-fluid-5w-30/
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  #55  
Old August 25th, 2015, 09:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdavisinva View Post
What fluid is in the transmission.
If they put HP-90 or ATF, the new gearbox will have a short life.
MTF-94 is required.
AMSOIL Manual Synchromesh Transmission Fluid 5W-30
Which, in addition to the Amsoil...many folks run Redline MTL, or even BG Syncro Shift II.
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  #56  
Old August 25th, 2015, 09:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nathanwind View Post
How much is the core charge ?
$500 - Though, I am considering now hanging on to it. Like the previous person mentioned - might be a good learning experience.... Not sure though.

------ Follow up post added August 25th, 2015 09:33 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by rdavisinva View Post
What fluid is in the transmission.
If they put HP-90 or ATF, the new gearbox will have a short life.
MTF-94 is required.
AMSOIL Manual Synchromesh Transmission Fluid 5W-30

I supplied my own oil for them to use:

Red Line SAE 75W80 API GL-4 Manual Transmission and Transaxle Lubricant
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  #57  
Old August 25th, 2015, 09:39 PM
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. Isn't that MTL?

I use Honda mtf.
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  #58  
Old August 26th, 2015, 09:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gmuiter View Post
$500 - Though, I am considering now hanging on to it. Like the previous person mentioned - might be a good learning experience.... Not sure though.

------ Follow up post added August 25th, 2015 09:33 PM ------




I supplied my own oil for them to use:

Red Line SAE 75W80 API GL-4 Manual Transmission and Transaxle Lubricant
Let's pull it apart in your driveway this weekend
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  #59  
Old August 26th, 2015, 09:41 PM
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Redline MTL is the best for the R380 ive triend them all Ive ran it in my Honda but it seems happier with the Honda transmission fluid, maybe i will try that next
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  #60  
Old August 26th, 2015, 10:03 PM
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Sorry to hear about this dramatic journey, but glad all is well and the truck is finally back in your hands.

Minus the 'sell the truck' bit, this thread is a great example of why I love this forum.

PS Come to Florida - summer year round
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