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  #1  
Old April 3rd, 2013, 08:55 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Transmission bellhousing differences

I'm researching my options for my EV build and I am back to considering keeping a transmission in the mix. I am told a series transmission won't handle the torque of the electric motor so I am looking at my options. At least one company makes an adapter to fit an electric motor for a "land rover" but they can't tell me what rover transmission it fits.

So what are the differences in the bellhousings? I am interested in things like long/short variants, but primarily how they bolt up to an engine.

I am pretty sure the LT77 and R380 are the same bolt pattern/shape, but what about a series?

I have attached diagrams of the adapter known as the "land rover" adapter and would like to know if anyone can tell me if these measurements jive with a r380 or series bellhousing? I don't have either one unbolted from a transmission to look at.

The end goal if I go this route is to use a series clutch pedal assembly, whatever master cylinder works, to the transmission and compatible clutch assembly with just the engine replaced with an electric motor.

Thanks,
charles

land rover.pdf

land rover hub.pdf
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Old April 3rd, 2013, 09:03 PM
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The back of the engine is either 2.25/2.5/200tdi/300tdi which are all basically the same or V8 or TD5 or Puma.

I have no idea what that one is, but I will go in my basement and take a picture of a V8 bellhousing and post it in a minute.
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Old April 3rd, 2013, 09:14 PM
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You da man!

I am going to predict it's the non-V8 pattern, but let's see.
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Old April 3rd, 2013, 09:15 PM
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See if this works: v8 pattern.
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Old April 3rd, 2013, 09:50 PM
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How can someone make a bell housing adapter and not know what it fits?
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Old April 3rd, 2013, 11:12 PM
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I think i have those same slippers (but in black) and nice preABS RRC pedal assembly
'Tis for sale! (pedal assembly, not slippers)
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Old April 4th, 2013, 08:14 AM
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I'm surprised Josh hasn't chimed in by now on the footwear

Ok, thanks for the pictures. I'll look again, but the pdf of the adapter plate doesn't seem to match any of these.

My goal description probably sucked. I have heard you guys say the series transmission is too weak. Got it. If I go this route, I'd like to take a standard R380/LT230 and find a bellhousing that fits the R380 on the back and this adapter plate on the front (and obviously support a flywheel/clutch arrangement that fits). So first step is to figure out what this adapter plate will fit and if there is such a bell housing that will meet this requirement.

Jimmy, I have no idea but clearly it's possible.
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Old April 4th, 2013, 08:37 AM
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Charles have you considered an LT95? I heard it is very strong.
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  #9  
Old April 4th, 2013, 08:40 AM
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I still question the need for a transmission.
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Old April 4th, 2013, 09:14 AM
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Forrest, I am open to all suggestions, but to be honest of I go this route I want to use something modern and ubiquitous which I believe is the R380.

Bill, I still want to avoid this but I can't get the info I need to be able to confirm I can go direct to the LT230 without complications. To do this you have to go with a pretty high end motor/controller combo and these are usually larger motors. The leading candidates have large diameter motors and/or flanges that look like they won't fit in the space next to the LT230 forward output shaft housing without a really long adapter (like 8"+) but I need to confirm. Do you know of anyone local with a LT230 out of a truck so I can take some measurements? Even just the housing? The borg warner is different or I could look at what came out of the RRC.

So the fallback is to use a transmission. As long as I can get an adapter and configuration without some esoteric parts it makes the motor/controller/battery pack selection process much simpler (although I then have to add a bunch of parts and complexity I really would like to eliminate). I am trying to gather this info which seems harder than it should be too! If I can figure out what engine this adapter emulates it should be a simple matter of asking what transmissions can fit that engine.

And if you are curious, I think cost/effort is a wash either way. Eliminating the transmission reduces a lot of weight and volume and if going with new/rebuilt parts a lot of cost. I don't have a clutch pedal/tower and would need everything else including master, slave,lines,flywheel,pressure plate,clutch,throwout bearing, arm, full transmission including shifter and bellhousing. All that money can go into the custom adapter and higher end motor.
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Old April 4th, 2013, 10:01 AM
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Rob just finished rebuilding one. I think it's just sitting around not in a vehicle.
I'm sure that you also considered hydrostatic drive. Run a hydraulic pump with the electric motor and operate the LT230 with a hydraulic motor. Or figure a way to connect a hydraulic motor to the diff input flange. Then it's just a flow control valve for your go pedal.
Then you also have hydraulic pressure to run winches, boom mowers, backhoes, stump grinders and the like.
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Old April 4th, 2013, 10:41 AM
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How about a divorced lt230?
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Old April 4th, 2013, 11:01 AM
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Yes I should have mentioned I looked briefly at doing a divorced LT230. The only place I found selling an adapter was rakeway whom I sent an email but have not gotten a reply. Do you know of someone who sells one?

The only problem I can forsee with this is can you run this at high rpms without vibrations? I assume most people who go this route don't run high rpms and with the electric motor I'll be routinely over 5k, and possibly as high a 10k rpm.

But this does sound like a nice easy/cheap way to do this if the shafts can handle the rpms (assuming a nice straight alignment).
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Old April 4th, 2013, 11:04 AM
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Dan Rao tells me the only thing you need is to have a yoke welded to an input spud shaft out of an auto box.
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Old April 4th, 2013, 12:03 PM
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Bill. that does pretty much look like that is all that is involved, but I'd want to outsource it.

Jeff would you happen to know what gear set he is using? I'll be using 1.67 which would be a bit higher than a 1.2 although I am not sure how much off the top of my head.

But ok, this is looking very encouraging.
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Old April 4th, 2013, 12:06 PM
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Oh, here is the rakeway link. Seems to be a little more than just a stub shaft, but not overly complicated.

http://www.rakeway.co.uk/page12.html
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Old April 4th, 2013, 01:23 PM
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Yes I should have mentioned I looked briefly at doing a divorced LT230. The only place I found selling an adapter was rakeway whom I sent an email but have not gotten a reply. Do you know of someone who sells one?

The only problem I can forsee with this is can you run this at high rpms without vibrations? I assume most people who go this route don't run high rpms and with the electric motor I'll be routinely over 5k, and possibly as high a 10k rpm.

But this does sound like a nice easy/cheap way to do this if the shafts can handle the rpms (assuming a nice straight alignment).
email does not really work in the UK. Their phone number is on the website, give them a ring. I think you also want a slight offset as u-joints do not like to be run 100% alligned.
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