Transfer case lockup (stuck in Moab) - Page 2 - Defender Source
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  #21  
Old November 13th, 2007, 07:56 PM
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Bradlee Duncan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij
Also check with the breakers as a disco case will fit fine. Used they go for $250-500 all day long. All you have to do is pull the solinoid off the top before installing.
Can you explain this a bit more? Any pics?
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  #22  
Old November 13th, 2007, 08:00 PM
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Andrew Najarian
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What specifically is your question?

1) Breakers = Junk Yard/Dismantler

2) When he says "Remove the solenoid" he means the shift interlock solenoid that only allows you to shift the T-case when the auto trans is in neutral. Since you have a 5spd you would want to remove this so that you can shift the T-case.
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  #23  
Old November 13th, 2007, 08:04 PM
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Bradlee Duncan
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Thanks, sorry to be vague. I wanted to know more about the solenoid on top as I have never seen one before (only seen manual t-cases and don't have one in front of me at the moment).

Basically, I found a t-case out of a '95 disco (auto trans) and I assume all I will need to do when I put this in the '95 D-90 (manual trans) is pull the solenoid so I'd like to know more. How do I block off the spot left by the solenoid after I pull it? Any pics are helpful.

Thanks
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  #24  
Old November 13th, 2007, 09:14 PM
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david summers
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The solenoid has a cap on it held on by 4 8mm bolts. There is a small hole in the cap for the solenoid's wires. Just put a little RTV on the hole and replace the cap after you are done removing the solenoid.
David
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  #25  
Old November 13th, 2007, 11:11 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij
3 hours to pull the LT230 in my experience (save the 110 nightmare . . . . but I guess that was more the trans . . . .)
Can you elaborate? Janey leaks pretty badly out both the rear of the transfer case and somewhere up front - not sure if it's the rear main on the engine, or the front of the transmission yet. Is pulling the transfer box / tranny on the 110 a bitch?

thanks
charles
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  #26  
Old November 13th, 2007, 11:17 PM
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Charles, you do not have an LT230.

The 110 was just a pain due to rust on the cross member and me being an idiot.

To pull the solinoid all you have to do is remove it and then pull the center bit out and put it back together with a dab of silcone to plus where the wire came out.

Ron
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  #27  
Old November 13th, 2007, 11:25 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Ok, I can be a pretty good idiot too at times, and pulling that may be in my near future
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  #28  
Old November 13th, 2007, 11:26 PM
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Bradlee Duncan
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Thanks for the tips guys, my dad's going to the yard tomorrow to pick up the t-case and the landy will be as good as new. That is assuming everything on the swap goes OK.
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  #29  
Old November 13th, 2007, 11:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cgalpin
Can you elaborate? Janey leaks pretty badly out both the rear of the transfer case and somewhere up front - not sure if it's the rear main on the engine, or the front of the transmission yet. Is pulling the transfer box / tranny on the 110 a bitch?

thanks
charles
You should be able to tell based on the color of the oil, right? Time to get dirty man! ;-) If you're planning you remove the transmission, you have to come and borrow my transmission jack. You will hate your's after using mine (seriously!).

Actually, just curious, when were all the fluids exchanged? I know that a lot of topping off has been done, but I am curious to know when everything was drained for the last time (on purpose)?
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  #30  
Old November 14th, 2007, 03:42 AM
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Ryan
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Bradlee - I put a Disco transfer case in my 110 a few years back. In addition to removing the solenoid and few unused switches, I also had to swap over the speedo housing from my old transfer case. The Disco case I got didn't have a hole for the speedo gear. Otherwise everything else worked out fine.
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  #31  
Old November 14th, 2007, 10:49 AM
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The 94 and 95 cases have the speedo holes. 96 and up (GEMS) do not (I think . . . wait, maybe I foget when the switch was).
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  #32  
Old November 15th, 2007, 10:34 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Loic, I have replaced the fluids in the rear axle and engine . Planning to do the front axle and swill housings when I do the brakes - on hold until I get her running again. I think I did the tranny/tcase when I did the engine, but honestly now I am not sure. I want to say the color of the leaks are pretty dirty. I am pretty sure I would have.

Anyway I don't know if/when I'll be pulling it. I will be doing the fluids and replacing the rear seal before I pull it. Slippery slope if I do. Anyway, got lots of stuff to keep me busy so no fear of me doing it any time soon.

charles
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  #33  
Old November 16th, 2007, 06:24 AM
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Chris Hinkle
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The T-case on defenders '94, '95 and '97 have a hole for the speedometer. The '94 and '95 have a cable that connects there and goes about half a meter to the frame rail where it attaches to a sensor. A mechanical cable goes from there to the speedometer and a pair of wires goes from there to the computer to tell it how fast you are going. (This is what causes us issues with gear changes and the speed limiter). On the '97 a sensor is bolted up to the hole in the T-case and this sends an electronic signal to everything. That is why going to a VDO electronic speedometer is easy in the 97 and not in the earlier defenders. At some point my plan is to make an adapter for the 94 and 95 defenders to allow the 97 sensor to be attached - not at the T-case, but at the sensor on the frame rail. Then you can send an electronic signal to the speedometer without interfering with the signal to the ecu.
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  #34  
Old December 10th, 2007, 03:11 PM
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Bradlee Duncan
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So for those of you looking for an update, here's the problem. The result of a combination of too little gear oil in the t-case combined with subsequent clogging of the lubrication channel to the input gear rear bearing.

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...d/PICT0004.jpg


http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...d/PICT0001.jpg

The new t-case is in, and we just need to hook up all the odds and ends now. Should be running again towards the end of the week.
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