Transfer Case Filler Plug removal - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old September 16th, 2007, 10:53 AM
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J Phillips
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Transfer Case Filler Plug removal

I'm having a very hard time removing the transfer case filler plug. I have tried and tried to remove the plug, even taping the rachet a few times with a big hammer, and I cant get it to budge. I don't want to break the plug or crack the T-case wall. Are these things that hard to remove. The last time the fluid was changed was by the PO at the LR dealership.
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  #2  
Old September 16th, 2007, 10:55 AM
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have you soaked it liberally in liquid wrench or pb blaster?
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  #3  
Old September 16th, 2007, 10:57 AM
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Jim Cheney
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They arent hard to remove per se, but monkey techs tighten them up ridiculously over tight. Since its a 1/2" drive, just try a breaker bar and pull gently.
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  #4  
Old September 16th, 2007, 02:42 PM
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J Phillips
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No I havent tried soaking yet. I will give that a try. I notice that the LR Workshop manual says to use Hylomar sealer on the treads when putting the plug back in. I have feeling it was way too much thread sealer and overtightning from the dealer. Thx for the suggestions.
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  #5  
Old September 16th, 2007, 10:24 PM
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Once you have tried soaking it in liquid wrench and other (stronger) PB Blaster, used a long breaker bar, then you can try to use a impact wrench (use the lowest strength first).
If you use the impact wrench, stop using it and revert to a regular (manual) wrench as soon as the plug turned by 1/4th of turn or you will risk messing up the thread.
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  #6  
Old September 17th, 2007, 02:04 AM
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Might also try heating it if someone happened to put red Loctite on it.
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  #7  
Old September 17th, 2007, 04:52 PM
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Barry O'Mahony
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It should come out fairly easily with a 2 ft. breaker bar or torque wrench. A short rachet? Maybe not so easy.

Since the threads are in constant contact with oil (on the inside), I don't think hitting it with PB Blaster, etc., will do much of anything.
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  #8  
Old September 17th, 2007, 08:10 PM
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Heat it up. The aluminum will expand more and let it lose.
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  #9  
Old September 17th, 2007, 10:22 PM
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I got a breaker bar, been using that along with a hammer. I picked up some PB blaster today, and going to keep spraying it this week, and try again this weekend when I have more time.
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  #10  
Old September 18th, 2007, 09:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90
Heat it up. The aluminum will expand more and let it lose.
It's a hole.... It you heat up the aluminium around the hole, the hole will become smaller as the aluminium expands..... I think the idea of heating it up is to cause the heat on both to make the thread "move" between the two metals/break any sealant that might be there, hoping that this might help.
Technically, what you really would mean to do is cool the filler plug so that it becomes smaller (and cool the T-Case).
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I have an ex MoD and an ex wife. The two no longer conflict with each other.
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  #11  
Old September 18th, 2007, 10:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MonLand
It's a hole.... It you heat up the aluminium around the hole, the hole will become smaller as the aluminium expands..... I think the idea of heating it up is to cause the heat on both to make the thread "move" between the two metals/break any sealant that might be there, hoping that this might help.
Technically, what you really would mean to do is cool the filler plug so that it becomes smaller (and cool the T-Case).
No, the hole will become bigger. This is the law of physics. Go grab a caliper and try it yourself on something.

Since the aluminum expands more than the steel, it will release.
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  #12  
Old September 18th, 2007, 10:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90
No, the hole will become bigger. This is the law of physics. Go grab a caliper and try it yourself on something.

Since the aluminum expands more than the steel, it will release.
Yeah, that makes sense. I don't know what I was thinking.... Probably lacking sleep!
Thanks for correcting me.
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I have an ex MoD and an ex wife. The two no longer conflict with each other.
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  #13  
Old September 18th, 2007, 12:48 PM
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Put your foot on that breaker bar.
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  #14  
Old December 27th, 2009, 07:09 PM
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seems the best place to place this issue....when putting my drain plug back in it broke (just regular one handed socket tightening, no huge pull). Please tell me I am not totally screwed (no pun intended). Since I was running out of daylight I will have to survey more tomorrow, but how accessible are the drain plug 'remains' if I remove the plate and take a go from that angle? Didn't seem too far. Are my threads permanently damaged? A whole new XF case can't be the solution. Not leaking with the small bit of oil I put in. Thanks for the help.
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  #15  
Old December 28th, 2009, 10:07 AM
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Weird. Never heard of that before. It just cracked? The bottom plate should be easy enough to remove, but the bits might not have made it all the way to the bottom. You might have to (or be better off) fish the bits out through the hole where it threads into depending on how big they are. Just make sure you get them all. A flashlight should make the job easier.
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  #16  
Old December 29th, 2009, 01:06 AM
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Robert Dassler
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Yeah, it happens. The drain plugs are hollowed out where the magnet is inserted. They are prone to cracking the threads and breaking off. You aren't screwed. Pull the cover & punch out the magnet and use an easy out to back it out, run a 12x1.5mm tap through the threads, and replace the plug. If the threads in the t-box are damaged beyond salvage you can drill and retap it for a 14mm plug. If you drill it oversize, make sure to drill the hole squarely with the case, otherwise the sealing washers don't seal so well. Look through the NAPA parts & accessories catalog...they have a whole section of drain plugs.
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  #17  
Old December 29th, 2009, 01:18 AM
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I see now. Drain plug, not fill plug. DUH. All makes sense to me now.
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  #18  
Old December 29th, 2009, 05:28 AM
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Brian Love
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whew. Good to hear. Just went to the top of the list of things to do on this three day weekend.
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  #19  
Old December 29th, 2009, 10:35 AM
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Go easy on that hammer, should come out with a breaker bar. Or try a longer breaker bar. And remember righty tighty lefty loosy.
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  #20  
Old December 29th, 2009, 12:56 PM
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I wish it was something that 'manly'.....straight regular tighting. I'm left handed so I have to be extra careful which way I turn all the time. And I get it wrong a lot still
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