Trail Issue - CDL? - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old February 11th, 2013, 11:46 AM
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Trail Issue - CDL?

So I was out on a relatively easy trail yesterday when I found myself 7/10's the way up a steep incline with only the front passenger wheel grabbing for traction. After some careful wheel placement, I was able to make it up about 9/10's up the hill. A spotter noticed that on the way up it looked like I had zero power being transfer to my rear wheels. This meant that I had essentially climbed with front wheel drive and an open diff.

My transfer case was in the 4lo and locked position but it seemed like my diff lock was not engaging (hence the no power to the rear). It almost seems like the diff lock was engaged for the beginning of the trail and slipped out of engagement during the climb. Can this happen? What can I do to check if it's engaged or not? If it does engage, what can I do to make sure it stays engaged?
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  #2  
Old February 11th, 2013, 11:49 AM
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Neill Thornton
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First question... was the locker indicator in the dash lit up?
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Old February 11th, 2013, 11:53 AM
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complicated answer.

My locker indicator stopped working a year ago. It used to flicker on and off while the locker was engaged but then stopped working all together. I've run more difficult trails where the CDL was engaged but with the indicator off. I've had it verified by a shop that the indicator no longer works because of a malfunction in whatever pin sets off that light and that it is unrelated to the diff engaging. Or so they said.
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  #4  
Old February 11th, 2013, 12:05 PM
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The light is just a connection to a switch on the transfer case.

Assuming the wiring/light is ok, I'm guessing that the fix is as simple as threading the switch further into the transfer case, or replacing it if it is broken.
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Old February 11th, 2013, 12:28 PM
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YOU need to test if it is locked or not. Park on flat suraface and chock the wheels. Difflock engaged, gearbox in neutral, hand brake off. Jack up one wheel. If you can spin it AND the propshaft is spinning, the difflock is not engaged.

If not, first make sure the linkage is moving fully. Fix the indicator. It is simple to fix and helps you out a LOT.
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Old February 11th, 2013, 12:50 PM
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I've had mine pop out before but i had the dam nanny buzzer going of to remind me that it wasnt fully engaged..
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Old February 12th, 2013, 09:21 AM
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Can you explain how this works? I understand (or actually not really) that if you jack up the truck with no front locker, spin front left forward, front right will spin opposite. Lock the locker, both spin same direction. With respect to the CDL, why would the driveshaft spinning and the tire spinning show no CDL, and not relate to "the path of least resistance" problem when out on the trail. Thanks in advance - finally trying to learn how the damn car actually works!!


Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
YOU need to test if it is locked or not. Park on flat suraface and chock the wheels. Difflock engaged, gearbox in neutral, hand brake off. Jack up one wheel. If you can spin it AND the propshaft is spinning, the difflock is not engaged.

If not, first make sure the linkage is moving fully. Fix the indicator. It is simple to fix and helps you out a LOT.
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Old February 12th, 2013, 09:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
If not, first make sure the linkage is moving fully. Fix the indicator. It is simple to fix and helps you out a LOT.
x2. Most likely your shift linkage isn't getting the job done. Crawl under the truck and see if you can move the selector into lock position with your hands. You can find further explanation here:


http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co...&productId=219
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Old February 12th, 2013, 10:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nuclearmonkey View Post
Can you explain how this works? I understand (or actually not really) that if you jack up the truck with no front locker, spin front left forward, front right will spin opposite. Lock the locker, both spin same direction. With respect to the CDL, why would the driveshaft spinning and the tire spinning show no CDL, and not relate to "the path of least resistance" problem when out on the trail. Thanks in advance - finally trying to learn how the damn car actually works!!
If we are trying to test the center diff lock, we want to know if one driveshaft can spin with the opposite one being held. If the center locker is working, both driveshafts will be linked together and one will not be able to spin without the other doing the exact same thing.

So... if we only jack up one wheel (say the left rear), and the center diff is unlocked, and then turn that lifted wheel, it should turn freely and the force you are putting on the wheel will then be transferred to the rear driveshaft since the right rear wheel is still on the ground. Then since the center lock inside the transfer case is not engaged, the center diff will spin (you can't see this but it's happening) and the front driveshaft can sit still.

Now let's lock the center diff. Same test. Now when you spin the left rear tire, as before the force will be transferred to the rear driveshaft to the transfer case. However, we have now locked the front and rear driveshafts together, so that any movement in the rear shaft must be met with movement of the front. Mechanically, they are now joined into one shaft. Since both front wheels are still on the ground, any movement of the driveshaft will mean movement of the front wheels... and movement of the truck. Just to be super safe, we chock the truck so that when we turn the wheel, the truck has no where to go, and therefore the rotational force we are applying to the wheel also has no where to go, and it won't turn.

Clear as mud? I tried looking for a video on it but it seems like no one has really done one.
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  #10  
Old February 12th, 2013, 11:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by meatblanket View Post
x2. Most likely your shift linkage isn't getting the job done. Crawl under the truck and see if you can move the selector into lock position with your hands. You can find further explanation here:


http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co...&productId=219

Thanks, that link and the advice so far will be really helpful. I haven't had a chance to check things out yet because of work. I'm sure come this weekend I'll have a lot more question for you guys.

Worst case, if my diff lock is engaging but then slipping out of the locked position, will readjusting the indicator help fix this?
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  #11  
Old February 12th, 2013, 12:08 PM
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Awesome explanation! For some reason, I never pictured the CDL locking both driveshafts together at the transfer case. Makes total sense now that I think about. Sorry about the thread hijack, but I kind of figured it was a half a$$ hijack seeing how it was sort of on topic.

Quote:
Originally Posted by navydevildoc View Post
If we are trying to test the center diff lock, we want to know if one driveshaft can spin with the opposite one being held. If the center locker is working, both driveshafts will be linked together and one will not be able to spin without the other doing the exact same thing.

So... if we only jack up one wheel (say the left rear), and the center diff is unlocked, and then turn that lifted wheel, it should turn freely and the force you are putting on the wheel will then be transferred to the rear driveshaft since the right rear wheel is still on the ground. Then since the center lock inside the transfer case is not engaged, the center diff will spin (you can't see this but it's happening) and the front driveshaft can sit still.

Now let's lock the center diff. Same test. Now when you spin the left rear tire, as before the force will be transferred to the rear driveshaft to the transfer case. However, we have now locked the front and rear driveshafts together, so that any movement in the rear shaft must be met with movement of the front. Mechanically, they are now joined into one shaft. Since both front wheels are still on the ground, any movement of the driveshaft will mean movement of the front wheels... and movement of the truck. Just to be super safe, we chock the truck so that when we turn the wheel, the truck has no where to go, and therefore the rotational force we are applying to the wheel also has no where to go, and it won't turn.

Clear as mud? I tried looking for a video on it but it seems like no one has really done one.
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