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  #21  
Old November 28th, 2011, 08:00 PM
akfisher
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robert hall
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now i wish i hadnt replaced the oil cooler lines because an engine fire might be just the ticket to get out of this mess.
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  #22  
Old November 28th, 2011, 08:42 PM
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Trevor Griffiths
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I didn't read the whole thread through again, but are the issues isolated to just ignition fed circuits, battery fed circuits or both?

Never mind, I see it's been both. So, what's common to both ignition and battery fed circuits in a D90? The battery: start with the basics of clean cables, good grounds. The ignition switch- it has big fat brown wire going to it, right? The interior fuse box has lot's of the failed circuits: lights, fuel pump/ignition etc..
Man, I would love to fix this! It would be more fun than chasing a P0117 "Engine does not come up to temperature within the perscribed timeframe" on a Bosch P38....
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  #23  
Old November 28th, 2011, 09:11 PM
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Carl Jonsson
1995 NAS D90 #219
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Don't give up!

17 years of neglect on an already poorly designed electrical system is bound to have some problems. I have had my fair share of electrical issues on my 95 D90. Most of those were due to poor, sloppy and sometimes idiotic wiring by previous owners. Look at it as an opportunity to learn. I knew nothing when I first bought it but I have learned a fair amount due to all the issues I've had. Taking it in to the shop didn't do much for me. They would "fix" it then I would happen again. I had better luck researching and asking stupid questions on this forum. Take Ed up on his offer if you can. Inviting a knowledgeable rover owner over to trouble shoot is also a great way for you to observe and learn.
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  #24  
Old November 29th, 2011, 08:46 PM
akfisher
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robert hall
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After the advice here i called the shop and asked to speak to the actual mechanic instead of the manager of the shop. he laughed when i mentioned the circuit board like you all did. his immediate response was "there isnt one". he said he has found that he can shake the main fuse box and make the fault occur/resolve. he feels it is either a short in one of the power sources or a bad connection to the fuse box. he says that since it is all hard wired from the main harness to the back of the fuse box and not done with plug in connectors he is trying to find a way to check the connections without taking everything apart or splitting the fuse box open. does this make better sense that the original explanation? if so anyone have any ideas how to proceed from here? thanks everyone for your input, i appreciate it.
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  #25  
Old November 29th, 2011, 08:50 PM
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ECR
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There is a bolt that connects the main power supply to the maxi-fuse block. It takes about 3 minutes to get to it. If the bolt was loose the maxi-fuses would periodically cut out.
You can take the entire maxi-fuse black apart into sections and get it checked/ cleaned up.
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  #26  
Old November 29th, 2011, 10:11 PM
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mark kellgren
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not clear if the "main fuse box" he refers to is the maxi-fuse block under the bonnet, or the under dash fuse block mounted to the bulkhead. If it was the under dash block, I thought all Defenders had the same block, which is in fact composed of all captured female connectors that can be removed and replaced. At least that is how mine is. I just bought a bag of replacement connectors for it from RN so I can add some accessories to my fuse bus. 2 screws remove that entire under dash fuse panel, allowing easy access to the back of it.
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  #27  
Old November 30th, 2011, 04:10 PM
akfisher
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robert hall
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the mechanic was talking about the fuse box in the cab under the dash. for now i'm leaving the truck there. i'm leaving town for a week and hopefully they will figure something out while i am gone.
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  #28  
Old December 1st, 2011, 03:57 AM
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ed angel
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My offer still stands if you would like a hand, sounds like maybe the shop has it figured out now. But if not im in town for the next month and have some free time. im rewireing my 109 and have all the tools available.

Cheers Ed
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  #29  
Old December 1st, 2011, 06:56 AM
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Mike
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The below the dash fuse box will come loose with two screws and then each block of fuses will be able to be removed from the metal support. The wires go behind the lower dash panel and then split into two parts, one to the left and one to the right. The section to the right should go out into the engine bay and connect to the other harnesses. You may have to pull the dash to get to everything as you do not have much room to get to the main fuse box connectors if they are all fubar. I would think that it would be only a few wires that are bad however.
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  #30  
Old December 1st, 2011, 11:59 PM
akfisher
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robert hall
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Thanks everyone for your input and thanks Ed for renewing your offer. I am out of town for vacation and will deal with it when I get back.
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