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  #1  
Old May 20th, 2006, 04:43 AM
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Christian Shea
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Total Cut Out, No Power

I was driving home tonight at midnight and almost back when the D90 lost all power. Momentarily all the dash indicator lights lit up the engine coughed it tried to power up (almost like a hesitation) then it died totally. I came to rest at a red light and had to put it in park. Well I couldn't get it into neutral for a flat bed. The kicker is this. I'll twist the ignition to the start position and nothing happens, no guages read no clicks from the ignition nothing! The only thing that work is the open door chime, dome lights, and i can turn the headlights to the on position but only the dash backing lights come on. I couldn't get the thing into neutral to save my life so a dolly came and got it home. Two parts I guess....What the hell happened to make it cut out all together and no power? I got a jump and tried to get a charge from another car but nothing changed. Also Why can't I get the thing into neutral? Is there a way to get it there so I can flat bed it from my house to the mechanic? All help will be greatly appreciated.
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  #2  
Old May 20th, 2006, 07:23 AM
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not sure why you lost all power, can be hard to diagnose over the net.

You need 12v to get into N as there is a lockout solenoid that needs 12v to open and let you shift the truck

Do you have 12v at the battery?

If so, check the battery connections to the truck especially the ground
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  #3  
Old May 20th, 2006, 12:06 PM
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Christian Shea
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I jumped under the truck this morning, the ground that runs from the battery drivetrain looks tight and secure. I need to get my multimeter out, but is this possibly a catastrophic failure in the electrical system? Or if it were would I get no electricity whatsoever for the interior lights to come on?

Also, the Optima in it is from 1997! Now I'm not sure what the usual time for them to be good is but 9 years seems like a good while.
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Old May 20th, 2006, 12:18 PM
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Had a similar problem once, though in a manual truck, ended up being a blown maxi-fuse under the hood, and I also found out that two of the circuits were reversed in the block and the main circuit that was SUPPOSED to have a 60 amp fuse only had a 30 amp.

-Hans
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  #5  
Old May 21st, 2006, 02:16 PM
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Christian Shea
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Could this potentially be a problem with the alternator? Had a suburban once which did a similar thing albeit not running. Went to crank it and it was dead and tried to jump it to no avail. Doesn't seem likely but I'm getting kind of worried it may be something serious. If it helps any I was tailgating for a couple hours before hand listening to the stereo and would crank the truck every 45 minutes to an hour to keep the battery from going dead. Could this have done any damage?

Also I switched the battery to my brothers F150 battery which has less than 5000 miles on it and it did the same thing so definately not the battery. What I don't get either is the CD changer will check the cartridge when the key goes in position 2 but the stereo head unit gets nothing. What gives? Could really use some input to save my sanity at this point
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  #6  
Old May 21st, 2006, 02:49 PM
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A somewhat similar failure happened to me once. Turned out to simply be the ignition switch in the steering column. If the symptoms are what you would expect if you suddenly pulled the key out of the ignition, that could be it.
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Old May 21st, 2006, 05:08 PM
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Chris Davis
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Mine was ignition switch, too.
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  #8  
Old May 22nd, 2006, 01:49 PM
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There is also a fuse for the majority of the GEMS system. It is a 15 amp fuse. Top row of the interior fuse block, all the way to the RH side. If that fuse goes for some reason it kills everything you have mentioned. Lights, radio etc would still work, but dash lights gauges, EFI ECU and the power for the shifter selonoid (getting it into park) etc all go t*ts up.
As to what caused the fuse to go... that is another story, but it is a good place to start (along with all the other suggestions as well).
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  #9  
Old May 22nd, 2006, 02:18 PM
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Christian Shea
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Thanks guys, the strange thing is the only things that work are parts of the truck that would function without the key in (ie lights in the car and running lights, but no headlights, i can flash the brights though, the clock, and caution flashers). When i plugged my obdII reader in it said fail as it would I guess without the key in and turned to the second position. Does this sound like ignition switch to you guys?

Follow-up Post:

Ran outside to test it real quick and the Gems fuse looks fine, I didnt bother swapping it as it looks practically brand new. Also it looks like the top bank of the fuse panel is the parts of the truck that dont work at all while the bottom bank are in tact I think almost wholly. All the two wired up to another fuse seperately possibly?
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