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  #1  
Old December 19th, 2015, 05:03 PM
Scooby Doo
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Armand
1994 D90
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To Castor Correct or not for 3" lift

I have had my 94 Defender 90 for 20 years. Years ago I put on a 2" lift and fitted it with 285's. Recently I upgraded to 35" tires which involved re-gearing the diffs and adding ARB air lockers front and rear, new axles, CV joints and more. The thing is, I would like to get a bit more lift and contemplating going to a 3" spring which would require castor corrected radius arms. Since it is a short wheel base and drives kind of squirrelly as it is, I am wondering if anyone out there has done this and can tell me if it is worth the cost. There is a kit that corrects the castor angle and rear pinion angle and I am wondering if after it is installed if I will actually be able to tell a difference. I know about lengthening brake lines and prop shaft angles etc. I am afraid I will spend thousands of dollars and then when I drive it, it will feel practically the same. It would be great to hear from anyone who has added castor corrected radius arms and corrected the pinion angle in the rear and that other piece that lengthens the A arm in the rear, or whatever it is called.
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  #2  
Old December 19th, 2015, 05:16 PM
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don
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Don Bunnell
'86 110 3dr ST
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- Keep 2" lift
- Swap bump stops to longer ones
- Cut flares where the 35's rub on them
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  #3  
Old December 19th, 2015, 05:33 PM
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sonoronos
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Ed
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I'm with don.

Don't bother with a 3 inch lift if you already have a 2 inch lift.

If you have squirrely handling, something else is eff'd up, mate.

I have Rovertym crazy-castor corrected front radius arms, Rovertym rear arms, rear a-arm extension, Rockware rear shock mounts, DC shafts, and a higher than 3 inch lift. I bought all this shiz to fix all the stuff that broke from buying castor corrected arms. I speak from experience. STAY AWAY.
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  #4  
Old December 19th, 2015, 05:45 PM
the rover shop
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shayne young
89,93 & 95 camel trophy 110s 06 130
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The problem with bigger lifts in not just the castor settings but also where the arm goes into the bushings at the frame...on 3 and up inch lifts this bushing is always on the wrong angle and gets messed up easily, the castor corrected arms are bent where it goes through these bushings to allow it to be straight in the bushing..
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Old December 19th, 2015, 05:57 PM
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Don Bunnell
'86 110 3dr ST
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Like sonoronos said - an NAS 90 should go down the highway at 70 and feel stable.

I just feel like the rigs I have seen with higher than 2" lifts seem more tipsy on the trail. Look up Meiser and his flat fender Jeep build. He did a couple of UA trips and his posts on Pirate said his low build on 37's did very well in all terrain save for deep water. And that trip sees some very capable trucks on very tough terrain.

35's will get that pumpkin over obstacles that would hang up something on 33's. I think if you wheel, have the HP/TrQ and strong axles they are a nice move. The flares take up a lot of room and are pretty cheap to replace so I'd keep a mellow lift and cut as needed.
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  #6  
Old December 19th, 2015, 06:01 PM
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Brett Fritzler
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It was my understanding that RTE front arms corrected Pinion angle to accommodate a DC shaft. Other arms may account for castor correction but then the pinion angle will be wonky.
The only way to correct for both pinion angle and castor is to run modified arms and redrilled swivels.
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