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  #1  
Old June 19th, 2011, 01:35 PM
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barry f
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Tire carrier powdercoat

Contemplating powdercoating the tire carrier on my truck. Can I leave the bushings in? Bad idea? Should I pull them? If so how do I put new ones in? Headset press?
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  #2  
Old June 19th, 2011, 01:39 PM
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Anything that's not metal has to come out or it will melt.
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Old June 19th, 2011, 01:48 PM
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What are the bushings?
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Old June 19th, 2011, 01:57 PM
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Mine are plastic, but its an aftermarket deal.
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  #5  
Old June 19th, 2011, 02:46 PM
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I think the stock ones are brass but sure
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Old June 19th, 2011, 02:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bjf View Post
I think the stock ones are brass but sure
Yes, stock is brass. You can use a brass punch...if you know what you're doing. If you're having the carrier recoated, I would just fit new one's personally.
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  #7  
Old June 19th, 2011, 03:19 PM
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Thanks and how you wrote that without mockery is shocking.

No clue what a brass punch is but I will look it up.
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Old June 19th, 2011, 03:52 PM
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A brass punch is identical to a steel punch, but made out of brass...

You would need to be exceptionally careful even with a brass punch. The chances that they will come out without getting destroyed is pretty nill,......however, you are on the wrong coast, and I'm only accustomed to working on rusty parts....
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Old June 19th, 2011, 04:07 PM
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Replacing is fine. I wish the factory bolts could be had for cheap. Over 200 for four.
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  #10  
Old June 19th, 2011, 05:09 PM
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Make sure the powder coater knows what opening/holes will be bushed so he can keep them free of the powder coating. Otherwise you have to hone out the openings for the bushings to fit.
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  #11  
Old June 19th, 2011, 08:25 PM
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How does a brass punch work? Looking at the tool and am not sure how you use it to pull a bushing. Are you hitting the inside edge?
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  #12  
Old June 19th, 2011, 08:33 PM
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The bushing is actually 2 pieces...there is a seam in the middle(inside, duh)...you are far better off just beating them out and replacing with new.....honestly.

But, since you asked, you carefully hit at the seam, working 180 degrees apart and it will come out, then you might need to clean up any "mushroom effect" with a round file......that's if you're really trying to pinch the pennies.
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  #13  
Old June 19th, 2011, 10:11 PM
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I planned to buy new as they are cheap and I am sure after 17 years worn and yes I have seen them out so I understand the two part. I was wondering more of how the punch works and now I understand. I was hoping there was more of a tool like a head cup remover. Basically a pipe that is split on one end. You pull it through until it is inside the tube sitting on the bushing race and hit it with a hammer to wack it out.

Here is a picture. http://www.parktool.com/product/head-cup-remover-rt-1
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Are there shocks that I can addjust up and down like my friends LX460? That would be very cool!
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  #14  
Old June 19th, 2011, 10:30 PM
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Get yourself one of these:

http://www.amazon.com/OTC-Tools-OTC1.../dp/B000HI1P68

It made short work of the bushing on my carrier when I replaced them over the winter.
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Old June 19th, 2011, 10:40 PM
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Very cool

thanks
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  #16  
Old June 19th, 2011, 10:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomaco1 View Post
Anything that's not metal has to come out or it will melt.
sounds like keeping them in would work great for removing the bushings, no? (although, i doubt the shop doing the powdercoating would like this very much)
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  #17  
Old June 20th, 2011, 08:24 AM
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tire carries

Barry,

Just a suggestion, have you considered having it hot dipped galvanized? I did mine several years ago and have not had to think about it since.

Although powdercoating is nice, unless your truck is garaged all the time and is just a play thing it will not last and you will be doing it again in 5- 10 years. If you really use it as I do mine everyday sooner. As I don't ever plan on selling my truck, I look to do these type of service issues only once.

You can have it sandblasted and hot dipped for typically about $500 and it you want to paint it after that. Go with the aftermarket bronze bushings and new steel bolts. They are half the price of the factory ones and better.

As for changing the bushings, I have done at least 6 of these. All you need is a good bench vise. Clamp the tire carrier in and use a hammer and a steel punch to knock them out. The are split in the center and one half comes out each side. sand the hole to clean up any rust and use a little grease and the vise to press them in.

If you hot dip leave the bushings in place and knock them out after you are done. use red RTV in the grease nipple hole. It will not wash out in the dipping process.


Just MHO. Best of luck in whatever you choose.

Cheers
Scott

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Scott Preston
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Old June 20th, 2011, 08:40 AM
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Nice!
I agree. PC can be good but I have had mixed results in it's longevity.
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  #19  
Old June 20th, 2011, 02:32 PM
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Galvanizing is nice but not the look I want. Now galvanized and then powdercoated I could see doing but since my truck isn't in extreme weather I am sure I will just zinc prime and powdercoat. The whole thing seems like a nightmare though because of the current coating and the need to make sure the bushing holes and grease nipples don't get coated.
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Are there shocks that I can addjust up and down like my friends LX460? That would be very cool!
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  #20  
Old June 20th, 2011, 03:35 PM
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Barry, totally understand if that is not the look for you. I would still suggest galvanizing and then a good paint. When the paint does chip as they all do you don't get the rust. My sliders are hot dipped and them painted with just Rust-oleum. Every few years I just touch them up and don't need to worry about rust. Even if you powdercoat over the galvy, it's still a better option them powdercoat along.

Best of luck

Scott
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