Tire carrier powdercoat - Page 2 - Defender Source
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  #21  
Old June 20th, 2011, 07:07 PM
CDeWan
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Clay DeWan
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Barry,
Maybe this is going to oversimplify it.
1. You can just tape off the bushings you don't want powder coated and the powder coat guys will know where you don't want it sprayed on. This also works if you shove so tape in the hole where you took out the grease fittings.
2. f the tape and when you get the carrier back, you get a brass brush that fits on a drill and just brush the powder coat off.
Not knocking anyone's suggestion, but I currently have the one you sold me at the powder coater and I just took blue painters tape and marked where I did not want them to spray. On my last tire carrier, I just cleaned off the powder coat that the idiots put on the brass bushings.

If you go through the trouble of popping your bushings out then the numbskulls will end up getting powder coat in the bushing hole and you will have to clean out the hole before you put the bushings back in.

2 cents.
Clay
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  #22  
Old June 20th, 2011, 07:33 PM
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barry f
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Thanks Clay that makes sense

Would it also be a good idea to leave the grease nipples in?
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  #23  
Old June 20th, 2011, 07:59 PM
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Clay DeWan
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nipples

I wouldn't just from the fact that powder coating will kinda glue them in if you don't tape them off well. I think just take them out and roll up a thing of tape that fits nicely in the hole.
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  #24  
Old June 20th, 2011, 09:25 PM
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Don't leave them in place. There are silicone plugs and special tape used to keep pc away. It's not a big deal and any good shop will know what to do.
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  #25  
Old June 20th, 2011, 10:11 PM
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barry f
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Thank you. Much appreciated
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Are there shocks that I can addjust up and down like my friends LX460? That would be very cool!
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  #26  
Old June 21st, 2011, 12:03 AM
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You really need to remove the bushings / nipples and do a good job of getting it clean or when they put the carrier in the oven to heat the powder coating oil / grease will bubble out and cause defects in the PC.

Little defects lead to failure of the PC
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  #27  
Old June 21st, 2011, 12:44 AM
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barry f
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Thanks Dave

I would assume the current coating has to be burned off and during this process all the contaminants would be removed?
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  #28  
Old June 21st, 2011, 12:53 AM
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Sand blasting should be fine.
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  #29  
Old June 21st, 2011, 06:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dave_lucas View Post
You really need to remove the bushings / nipples and do a good job of getting it clean or when they put the carrier in the oven to heat the powder coating oil / grease will bubble out and cause defects in the PC.

Little defects lead to failure of the PC
Barry, this is sound advice ^^ ....do not leave anything in place. Remove everything. People that leave things in place are the same people who bitch about a lousy powder coat job 1 year later... just sayin.
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  #30  
Old June 21st, 2011, 07:26 AM
Oliver Whiting
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Oliver Whiting
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powder coating

All sound advice. I powder coat a lot of stuff. Remove the grease nipples and the bushings. Any oil and grease will be burned off prior to sand blasting. The powder coater should ask if any masking needs to be done and will do it for you properly. The oven is approx 400 degrees for 40 minutes.
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  #31  
Old June 21st, 2011, 08:54 AM
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I think it's a good idea to always keep in mind that powder coating is just another way to apply a finish to an object. Just like conventional painting, powder coating has a variety of formulas and they all have particular characteristics. And just like paint, powder coating requires the proper preparation.
So use the same criteria in choosing a powder coater that you would use in getting a conventional paint job.
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  #32  
Old June 21st, 2011, 10:36 AM
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barry f
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Thanks

I do have fear of this coming out correctly. If you search and read about my experience with my 110 cage you will see why.
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  #33  
Old June 21st, 2011, 04:23 PM
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Don Bunnell
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Barry-

Interested in what direction you go with the spare tire carrrier. I was looking to replace my bushings as it rattles pretty good but the "might as well" button kicks in and and I am now thinking sand blast and a trip to the powder coaters would make it 100%

Question to anyone that has purchased a bushing kit: what is the difference between RN's and AB's beside the price?

http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/8987.cfm $59.95

http://www.roversnorth.com/store/p-6...fender-90.aspx $177.45

At $177.45, once you add sand blast (about $50) and then powder (about $100) you are not far off from a brand new Mantec unit.
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  #34  
Old June 21st, 2011, 04:34 PM
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Mantec unit is for wagons not soft tops. As for bushings and bolts if you aren't going factory get them from mcmaster for much cheaper.
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  #35  
Old June 21st, 2011, 05:05 PM
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George at RDS has them for $5 each. The ones from AB certainly look sturdier, but if either gets the job done it shouldn't matter. I am interested to know which is better since I need these as well.

http://roversdownsouth.com/images/se...SERIES_HKS.JPG
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  #36  
Old June 21st, 2011, 05:36 PM
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barry f
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Those aren't tire carrier bolts. Those are for the door. Totally different. If you go genuine for the carrier bolts it will cost you roughly 225 for four bolts plus the cost of bushings. If you go mcmaster it will cost you 50 tops
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  #37  
Old June 21st, 2011, 06:01 PM
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Charles Galpin
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The bushings I got from mcmaster were just fine, but the bolts rusted almost immediately. Just FYI
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  #38  
Old June 21st, 2011, 06:17 PM
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Originally Posted by bjf View Post
Those aren't tire carrier bolts. Those are for the door. Totally different. If you go genuine for the carrier bolts it will cost you roughly 225 for four bolts plus the cost of bushings. If you go mcmaster it will cost you 50 tops
Blast your right. I was thinking the door. I need to do those too!
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  #39  
Old June 21st, 2011, 06:49 PM
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barry f
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Originally Posted by cgalpin View Post
The bushings I got from mcmaster were just fine, but the bolts rusted almost immediately. Just FYI
Second person who has said that to me. Why can't anyone find original style ones for cheap?
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  #40  
Old June 22nd, 2011, 07:58 PM
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Barry,

I did this project recently. I had to have the bushings removed at a machine shop because they were seized. I got new shoulder screws from AB but the caps rusted quickly. I see that McMaster sells stainless shoulder screws; it would be worth investigating to see if they sell them in the proper sizes.

I had the carrier mediablasted and then powder coated. The powder coating has held up just fine. This isn't a high-impact area and I'm not worried about it chipping. If it chipped and rusted, I could always just have it re-done. You don't need to go full-Horsey here.

Pictures here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/defende...7624439349518/
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