Tips needed to burp coolant. - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old July 19th, 2012, 10:40 AM
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Leif
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Tips needed to burp coolant.

My Rover is getting hot at idle. It happened after I had the radiator repaired and refilled. There was a lot of air in it when I first drove it after refilling and I could hear sloshing when I squeezed the hoses. I topped it off and drove it. Weeks later I was in traffic downtown and the temp slowly climbed. I topped off the upper fill pipe that leads to the heater core and filled the expansion tank half way (to the seam.) It took about 4 ounces this time in the pipe and 8 ounce in the expansion tank. This was all about 4 weeks ago and since I have no need to sit in traffic or have the Rover idle very long I haven't seen a problem.
This Saturday I will have the Defender in my town's parade along with various Land Rovers and I realized I didn't want to have an overheating engine and no way to pull over as I inch down the parade route, so I let it idle for about ten minutes yesterday and the temp began to climb. I tested the viscous fan clutch with rolled up cardboard and it was spinning strongly. I suspect air is still in the system and would like tips on getting it out. I plan to drive it up a ramp and open the system to see if any air finds its way out. Are there any other tips? Should the engine be running with it open or will that just pump my coolant out and add to the problem? What should I open? Radiator plug, the plug in the pipe over the right head, the expansion tank cap?
I recently replaced the expansion tank cap because I wanted a shiny one. It's a Britpart cap. I went back to the old dirty cap last night just in case the new one is not releasing pressure. Water pump, thermostat, and head gaskets have 10k miles on them and they may be cause for the problem at idle, but since they are new I suspect air remains in the system.

I short, how does one get air out of the cooling system?
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  #2  
Old July 19th, 2012, 10:51 AM
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Brian Jones
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Make sure you fan clutch is working. Your truck will overheat at idle if it isnt working.
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  #3  
Old July 19th, 2012, 11:15 AM
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I tested the fan clutch with rolled up card board and it didn't slow in the least. It shredded the paper (luckily not the fan.) When the engine is off it spins freely and there is no play.
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Old July 19th, 2012, 03:02 PM
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I am not sure this is right but I:
1. drove my up a ramp (or jack up the front end)
2. opened the rad cap and the expansion tank cap
3. turned truck on
4. revved it until warm

while truck was running...
5. topped off radiator and capped
6. halfway on expansion tank and capped.

I believe I read somewhere the revving will force the air out of the system. YMMV.

Are you sure it's air in the system? Doesn't air in the system lead to spikes in temp and not slow creeping temp?
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Old July 19th, 2012, 04:08 PM
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The theory I have read is that air in the coolant system makes it difficult for the pump to move water when it is spinning slowly.
I did exactly that about 30 minutes ago and squeezed in an extra .25 to .5 gallons into the system. When it was running on the ramp with the heater on the upper radiator hose was full of air. I pumped out the air and filled the radiator. Pumped and filled. Pumped and filled. Revved engine and filled.
It ran cool for 20 minutes. My fingers are crossed that this is residual air from opening the system for the radiator work.
Thanks for the input.
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Old July 19th, 2012, 04:15 PM
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How did you pump the air out?
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  #7  
Old July 19th, 2012, 04:22 PM
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Chris
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With engine cold remove cap from expansion tank
Have bottle of premixed coolant ready so you can top up
Start engine
Turn heater on max
Let the truck sit there with engine running. Top up as necessary
Don't be surprised if you need to repeat
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Old July 19th, 2012, 04:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronlam View Post
How did you pump the air out?
I squeezed the hose with two hands and the air moved into the radiator core and belched through the fill hole.

------ Follow up post added July 19th, 2012 01:29 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rocky View Post
With engine cold remove cap from expansion tank
Have bottle of premixed coolant ready so you can top up
Start engine
Turn heater on max
Let the truck sit there with engine running. Top up as necessary
Don't be surprised if you need to repeat
That's exactly what I did initially, but it was still having an issue at idle. Sitting flat the radiator and upper fill tube were full. When the front was on the ramp the radiator level went down as the thermostat kicked in. I think air might have been making its way back to the heater core when the engine cooled down. Lifting the front up may have helped it out.
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  #9  
Old July 19th, 2012, 10:47 PM
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Jason England
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Raising the front of the truck is recommended to try and get the air out. The proper way to do it is to vacuum evacuate the air in the system and then suck in the coolant.

If you still lose water then either you have a leak ... Check with a pressure tester ... ( cheap from autozone - I bought mine by hiring it and never returning it ) or you have head gasket gone ...
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  #10  
Old July 21st, 2012, 01:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leastonce
Raising the front of the truck is recommended to try and get the air out. The proper way to do it is to vacuum evacuate the air in the system and then suck in the coolant.

If you still lose water then either you have a leak ... Check with a pressure tester ... ( cheap from autozone - I bought mine by hiring it and never returning it ) or you have head gasket gone ...
I was looking at the Airlift pump to suck coolant in. I may buy that next time I flush the coolant. I'm accumulating a lot of tools since buying the Rover. I'd rather do work on it myself as I care a lot more about doing it right than the shops around me do.
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  #11  
Old July 21st, 2012, 02:24 AM
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Might want to check the temp with an ir thermometer too just to make sure its not a gauge or sensor issue giving you a false reading. Good luck.
Daniel
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