Tips for removing Clutch Pressure Plate - Defender Source
Defender Source  

Go Back   Defender Source > Defender & Series Technical Discussions > Defender Technical Discussions


Reply
 
Thread Tools
  #1  
Old June 29th, 2017, 12:01 PM
JehovahNissi77
Status: Offline
Ceyon Woods
1991 200Tdi D110 CSW, Arles Blue
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Swansboro, NC, USA
Posts: 62
Registry
Tips for removing Clutch Pressure Plate

I know this should be simple and I've been searching but this step seems to get glossed over when trying to access the clutch. Thanks to this site. I was able to get the motor and trans separated.


It's my first clutch replacement, it took a bit to get to this point, removed way more parts than expected to get enough room between the transmission bell housing without removing the seat box or cross member (rusted in place).


Trying to remove the clutch pressure plate but it keeps spinning. Looking for a way to lock the flywheel so I can replace the clutch.


Also some of the studs came out of the bell housing when removing the nuts that bolt it to the transmission is this normal?


Trying to get back on the road this weekend, I've been down a couple of weeks and
__________________
1991 200Tdi D110 CSW, Arles Blue.
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2  
Old June 29th, 2017, 12:55 PM
rdavisinva's Avatar
rdavisinva
Status: Offline
Guess Who?
N/A
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: USA
Posts: 7,346
You didn't mention the engine, but it isn't hard to lock the flywheel with a screwdriver or piece of metal wedged into the ring gear to prevent the engine from turning.

When doing this sort of thing it is common that the whole stud and nut comes out.
I remove all the studs and replace them with bolts so it makes assembly much easier.
__________________
RDavisinVA

Uncle "Richard" Douglas has a Land Rover with big wheels that never gets stuck... until he breaks something so it won't go. Uncle Douglas always breaks something. - Anna Crowther at the Conclave 2012 (AKA Carburetor Neck)

"What's with this death wobble, Uncle Douglas, I can't keep it in 1 lane?"
UD: "Just Power through it man!"
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old June 29th, 2017, 01:45 PM
JehovahNissi77
Status: Offline
Ceyon Woods
1991 200Tdi D110 CSW, Arles Blue
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Swansboro, NC, USA
Posts: 62
Registry
Apologies! Its a 200tdi with an LT77,(with knackered 2nd gear SYNCHRO).
Thanks. I'll give the screwdriver a shot and see if Lowes has some suitable bolts. I noticed that one of the nuts was missing when I took off the Trans Cover, so I had to go there anyway.
__________________
1991 200Tdi D110 CSW, Arles Blue.
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #4  
Old June 29th, 2017, 01:52 PM
rdavisinva's Avatar
rdavisinva
Status: Offline
Guess Who?
N/A
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: USA
Posts: 7,346
I think the bolts would need to be M10 1.5.
You can gauge the length by where the nut stopped on one of the studs that came out.
__________________
RDavisinVA

Uncle "Richard" Douglas has a Land Rover with big wheels that never gets stuck... until he breaks something so it won't go. Uncle Douglas always breaks something. - Anna Crowther at the Conclave 2012 (AKA Carburetor Neck)

"What's with this death wobble, Uncle Douglas, I can't keep it in 1 lane?"
UD: "Just Power through it man!"
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old June 29th, 2017, 02:42 PM
Arlo's Avatar
Arlo
Status: Offline
Kurt Ohlendorf
1997/130CC
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Bremen, Germany
Posts: 526
Registry
You may use a 27mm spanner on the central nut in front of the crankshaft to fix it.
You might need a setting die to fix a new pivot into the crankshaft and a tool to center the clutch disk while fixing the housing with the flywheel.



I prefer studs to fix parts whenever possible.
__________________
Land Rover werden vererbt, Sankeys sowieso! I told the old guy that weeks ago. I think his cheese is sliding off the cracker.......
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old July 7th, 2017, 01:55 PM
JehovahNissi77
Status: Offline
Ceyon Woods
1991 200Tdi D110 CSW, Arles Blue
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Swansboro, NC, USA
Posts: 62
Registry
Thanks for the tips. The Screwdriver worked out great and I got a clutch alignment tool from Rovers North. The real fun began when torqing down the blots. I snapped the head off. I went to Lowes to get a replacment and something to get the bolt out, found out later the thread pattern didn't match.
I then broke a drill bit trying to get the bolt out only to discover the remainder of the bolt moved rather freely. I used the dremel to cut a slot in it and the unscrwewed it with a flat head screw driver. All this rendered the screw extraction kit useless so my trip to Lowes was ultimately unfruitful but the bolts out. Ordering a replacement bolts from Rovers North.
I also discovered my clutch was not that bad, very rattly but lots of material left, which means the LT77 is most likely shot. Thanks to Uncle Doug's recommendation I ordered a stumpy R380 from ascctoft with all they had to offer including HD bearings and higher 5th gear. It should be shipped in a week.
This project snow balled quickly. I now need to drop the cross member to get the downpipe completely out as I chiseled it from the turbo to try to get more room between the transmission and motor while trying to drill the bolt out. I already had a new down pipe as the old one has a few holes. Rover North to the rescue again. The down pipe won't come out with the X member in place. I could cut it but I still have to get the new one in so I rather try to just the crossmember out. It appears to be welded in place by rust. My neighbor lent me a high lift so I'll try that and see how it goes. Oh I also broke my 13mm socket. I can't drive the 110 but I haven't been bored either. At this point I think the whole neighborhood is just as excited as I am to get the 110 rolling again.
__________________
1991 200Tdi D110 CSW, Arles Blue.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old July 7th, 2017, 02:03 PM
Naplm00
Status: Offline
M
1983 110 200tdi 3 door soft top
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Bay Area California
Posts: 3,123
Use a bottle jack in between the left and right frame rails with some wood for support. Place the jack as close as you can to the Crossmember and then hammer it out of place.

Also, I know what's it's like to be "hard on the equipment" as a friend has recently said about me. Take a step back, get the tourqe settings for everything and stop gorilla wrenching. I have the same issue sometimes
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old July 7th, 2017, 03:33 PM
rdavisinva's Avatar
rdavisinva
Status: Offline
Guess Who?
N/A
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: USA
Posts: 7,346
Quote:
Originally Posted by Naplm00 View Post
Use a bottle jack in between the left and right frame rails with some wood for support. Place the jack as close as you can to the Crossmember and then hammer it out of place.
Great advice.
The cross member is press fit meaning the frame rails have to be pushed open to get it out.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Naplm00 View Post
Also, I know what's it's like to be "hard on the equipment" as a friend has recently said about me. Take a step back, get the tourqe settings for everything and stop gorilla wrenching. I have the same issue sometimes
Tight is tight and tighter is not better.
If you think everything has to be extra tight use the torque settings as recommended.
If you continue to over tighten parts, you'll destroy things like brake lines.
Over tightening does more harm than good!
For example: lets say you stretch your clutch bolts with too much torque.
Later when you are driving they will sheer off because you weakened them with your heavy handed over tightening.
__________________
RDavisinVA

Uncle "Richard" Douglas has a Land Rover with big wheels that never gets stuck... until he breaks something so it won't go. Uncle Douglas always breaks something. - Anna Crowther at the Conclave 2012 (AKA Carburetor Neck)

"What's with this death wobble, Uncle Douglas, I can't keep it in 1 lane?"
UD: "Just Power through it man!"
Reply With Quote
Reply

Lower Navigation
Go Back   Defender Source > Defender & Series Technical Discussions > Defender Technical Discussions

Tags
clutch, vin

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New Diesel Clutch & Pressure Plate LRover For Sale - Parts 0 April 24th, 2013 03:27 PM
Td5 clutch and pressure plate ECR Vendors 3 March 9th, 2011 04:20 PM
Clutch Pressure Plate Question bstraw Series Technical Discussions 4 November 30th, 2010 01:44 PM
Determine clutch pressure plate wear cgalpin Defender Technical Discussions 5 November 19th, 2010 06:14 AM
pressure plate jperakis Misc. Chit-Chat 1 April 27th, 2004 08:45 AM


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 02:43 PM.


Copyright
vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2018 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.