Tippy lifted Truck - Defender Source
Defender Source  

Go Back   Defender Source > Defender & Series Technical Discussions > Defender Technical Discussions


Reply
 
Thread Tools
  #1  
Old May 21st, 2009, 04:49 PM
Rugbier's Avatar
Rugbier
Status: Offline
Gustavo
110 Tdi - 110 N/A - D3 HSE - RRS SC
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Peoples Republic of Marylandistan
Posts: 5,884
Registry
Tippy lifted Truck

I did search the forums and Confussion has taken over badly.

After a lot of research ( just kidding ) I've decided to go with 2" lift and 285/75/16. ( 2" RTE/OME or SG Progressive )

Now the questions.

Will no swaybars make the the Soft Top really tippy to the point of been dangerous on road?
part a: rear sway off
part be: front off
part c: all off

Am I correct to assume longer Brake lines and retainner are to be used with no sways?

Would it be beneficiary to use lowered turrets and rear relocation shock mounts? ( I guess longer travel shcoks needed as well? )

Finally do the Rear links have to be changed as well as the Front radius?

Thanks in advance
__________________
NO SIGNATURE
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2  
Old May 21st, 2009, 04:50 PM
rmuller
Status: Offline
Ryan
1966 S2a 88" | 2006 LR3
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Caldwell, NJ
Posts: 1,056
The stiffer the shocks the less tippy... a lot of people drive with no sways what soever without any issues... but other people like to retain the front ones and get quick disconnects for them.. I have that setup on my disco.
__________________
Ryan
-------------
Current:
1966 Series IIa "Olive"
2001 Discovery II
2006 LR3 HSE7


Past: 1994 Defender 90 #416, 2001 Discovery II
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old May 21st, 2009, 04:59 PM
Red90's Avatar
Red90
Status: Offline
John B.
1991 Defender 90, 200TDI
Site Team
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Calgary
Posts: 9,232
Registry
Sway bars? What are those??? Most 90s never had sway bars. Those were added for the silly Americans.

Body roll has nothing to do with tipping safety on the road. In fact body roll will prevent tipping as the driver is getting more feedback.....

There should be no need for brakeline, unless you are changing shocks or mounts as the shock control travel, not the springs.
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #4  
Old May 21st, 2009, 05:08 PM
ini88's Avatar
ini88
Status: Offline
Daniel Marcello
Alloy+Grit Creative Director
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Queens, NY
Posts: 2,816
Take the sways off. I run 35s with a loaded up roof rack doing 80mph and i have no problem. I run a stiffer shock so its helps keep the truck more stable.

Would you just be doing a 2" lift and driving it on the road, or be wheeling it a lot?
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old May 21st, 2009, 06:00 PM
rover4x4's Avatar
rover4x4
Status: Offline
Phillip
1995 SW #487/500
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: The Old North State
Posts: 7,523
Registry
I am running OME's and I put my front back on for safety.
__________________
Poor gas mileage gets you to the best places on earth
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old May 21st, 2009, 06:09 PM
chrisvonc's Avatar
chrisvonc
Status: Offline
Chris von C
No Defender at this time
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Va
Posts: 4,135
Quote:
I've decided to go with 2" lift and 285/75/16. ( 2" RTE/OME or SG Progressive )
For just 2" OME is solid but the call is up to you. I ran those size tires (BFG MTs), no sway bars and stock brake lines, no retainers, OME 2" for 2 years without issue. Was fine on and off the road. When I went to 3" I retained the rear springs with much more HD retainers as I have pulled lesser ones through the top perch when I had my Disco.


Quote:
Will no swaybars make the the Soft Top really tippy to the point of been dangerous on road?
No, at least if you dont go crazy and start loading up the roof rack


Quote:
Am I correct to assume longer Brake lines and retainer are to be used with no sways?
Not required for a 2" lift


Quote:
Would it be beneficiary to use lowered turrets and rear relocation shock mounts? ( I guess longer travel shcoks needed as well? )
No and maybe.. depends what kind of shocks you want to run. I ran the lowered upper mounts with the 3" springs with very good results, but again, only a 2" lift, you really dont have to go through that.


Quote:
Finally do the Rear links have to be changed as well as the Front radius?
No you dont have to, its nice but not required.
__________________
Chris von C

Please email one of the current MODs if you need assistance.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lriwater: As you know, most wives don't like Series trucks due to the ride and lack of creature comforts. Girlfriends seem to like those, but some sort of magic happens during the wedding ceremony.
[/size]
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old May 21st, 2009, 06:11 PM
Rugbier's Avatar
Rugbier
Status: Offline
Gustavo
110 Tdi - 110 N/A - D3 HSE - RRS SC
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Peoples Republic of Marylandistan
Posts: 5,884
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by rmuller
The stiffer the shocks the less tippy... a lot of people drive with no sways what soever without any issues... but other people like to retain the front ones and get quick disconnects for them.. I have that setup on my disco.
Ryan,

I coouldn't find quick disconnect for the 90.
I did have them on the DII

and I have a pir left over

Now wouldn't stiffer spring affect the wheel from staying on the ground when off road?

Thanks

Follow-up Post:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90
Sway bars? What are those??? Most 90s never had sway bars. Those were added for the silly Americans.

Body roll has nothing to do with tipping safety on the road. In fact body roll will prevent tipping as the driver is getting more feedback.....

There should be no need for brakeline, unless you are changing shocks or mounts as the shock control travel, not the springs.
LOL

Thanks

Follow-up Post:

Quote:
Originally Posted by ini88
Take the sways off. I run 35s with a loaded up roof rack doing 80mph and i have no problem. I run a stiffer shock so its helps keep the truck more stable.

Would you just be doing a 2" lift and driving it on the road, or be wheeling it a lot?

Have Bilsteins on now

Any recommendation as to shock ( specific brand/model )

Thanks

Follow-up Post:

Quote:
Originally Posted by rover4x4
I am running OME's and I put my front back on for safety.

Why? was it loose?

How does it respond with the one in the back gone?

Thanks
__________________
NO SIGNATURE
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old May 21st, 2009, 06:14 PM
chrisvonc's Avatar
chrisvonc
Status: Offline
Chris von C
No Defender at this time
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Va
Posts: 4,135
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rugbier
Any recommendation as to shock ( specific brand/model )
For just the lift you are looking for, OME HD 2" springs and shocks. Tried and proved combo for years on the D90s. The HDs will firm up your ride with the ST
__________________
Chris von C

Please email one of the current MODs if you need assistance.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lriwater: As you know, most wives don't like Series trucks due to the ride and lack of creature comforts. Girlfriends seem to like those, but some sort of magic happens during the wedding ceremony.
[/size]
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old May 21st, 2009, 06:16 PM
Rugbier's Avatar
Rugbier
Status: Offline
Gustavo
110 Tdi - 110 N/A - D3 HSE - RRS SC
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Peoples Republic of Marylandistan
Posts: 5,884
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisvonc
For just 2" OME is solid but the call is up to you. I ran those size tires (BFG MTs), no sway bars and stock brake lines, no retainers, OME 2" for 2 years without issue. Was fine on and off the road. When I went to 3" I retained the rear springs with much more HD retainers as I have pulled lesser ones through the top perch when I had my Disco.


No, at least if you dont go crazy and start loading up the roof rack


Not required for a 2" lift


No and maybe.. depends what kind of shocks you want to run. I ran the lowered upper mounts with the 3" springs with very good results, but again, only a 2" lift, you really dont have to go through that.


No you dont have to, its nice but not required.
Chris,

Did you have any vibration with the 2", how about the 3" ( someone suggested to put OME 762 in the front and 781 in the back for 3" lift )? did you do anything to the Driveshaft / links , radius, castor, etc?

What kind of shocks do you ran or think will be best?


Thanks
__________________
NO SIGNATURE
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old May 21st, 2009, 06:26 PM
chrisvonc's Avatar
chrisvonc
Status: Offline
Chris von C
No Defender at this time
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Va
Posts: 4,135
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rugbier
Chris,

Did you have any vibration with the 2", how about the 3" ( someone suggested to put OME 762 in the front and 781 in the back for 3" lift )? did you do anything to the Driveshaft / links , radius, castor, etc?

What kind of shocks do you ran or think will be best?


Thanks
I didnt have a single issue with the OME 2" set up. Buy 4 springs, 4 shocks, remove sway bars, install new springs and shocks, love life. Nothing else you need to do.

If you are going to go 3" then yes, you will want to consider all the other changes you have asked about depending on your use.

Quote:
someone suggested to put OME 762 in the front and 781 in the back for 3" lift
Uhh.. for the 3" thats not quite the combo I ran.. I was running the 764's in the front and 781's in the rear. I cant say if the 762 will work for the fronts as I had a 9K winch and SG winch bumper up front, as you can see from my wonderfully updated bio http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...ead.php?t=1346.

For my 3" on that truck and my SW, yes all those additional things I have done to both of mine, mainly because my D90's get wheeled, a lot not so lovingly.
__________________
Chris von C

Please email one of the current MODs if you need assistance.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lriwater: As you know, most wives don't like Series trucks due to the ride and lack of creature comforts. Girlfriends seem to like those, but some sort of magic happens during the wedding ceremony.
[/size]
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old May 21st, 2009, 07:33 PM
Rugbier's Avatar
Rugbier
Status: Offline
Gustavo
110 Tdi - 110 N/A - D3 HSE - RRS SC
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Peoples Republic of Marylandistan
Posts: 5,884
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisvonc
I didnt have a single issue with the OME 2" set up. Buy 4 springs, 4 shocks, remove sway bars, install new springs and shocks, love life. Nothing else you need to do.

If you are going to go 3" then yes, you will want to consider all the other changes you have asked about depending on your use.


Uhh.. for the 3" thats not quite the combo I ran.. I was running the 764's in the front and 781's in the rear. I cant say if the 762 will work for the fronts as I had a 9K winch and SG winch bumper up front, as you can see from my wonderfully updated bio http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...ead.php?t=1346.

For my 3" on that truck and my SW, yes all those additional things I have done to both of mine, mainly because my D90's get wheeled, a lot not so lovingly.
Thank You
__________________
NO SIGNATURE
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old May 21st, 2009, 07:51 PM
cgalpin's Avatar
cgalpin
Status: Offline
Charles Galpin
'94 D90 ST, '63 SeriesIIA
Site Team
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: South Riding, VA
Posts: 11,625
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisvonc
For just the lift you are looking for, OME HD 2" springs and shocks. Tried and proved combo for years on the D90s. The HDs will firm up your ride with the ST
This is what I have. No anti-sway bars. I suggest trying it and seeing if you have any vibes before doing anything else.
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old May 21st, 2009, 08:01 PM
ini88's Avatar
ini88
Status: Offline
Daniel Marcello
Alloy+Grit Creative Director
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Queens, NY
Posts: 2,816
I went a bit over and set up my truck different. Instead of lowering shock towers I extended mine. Rockware towers in the back and Rover Hybrid externals in the front. 14" Bilsteins 7100s w/ Reservoir valved at 360/80 all 4 corners. They are very long and the valving is a tad on the high side I think. On road they hold me up straight. Off road I feel a bit too stiff. The body moves more then than I like. they push up too hard and instead of having the truck stay level and making the suspension do all the work. I never ran Fox shocks but I bet they are basically the same thing. Also, take out the Heim joint and run the hard bushing instead. East Coast water/mud/sand eat those up real quick.
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old May 21st, 2009, 08:23 PM
rover4x4's Avatar
rover4x4
Status: Offline
Phillip
1995 SW #487/500
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: The Old North State
Posts: 7,523
Registry
2" OME is hit and miss. I did the rear links to get rid of the growl when I let off the gas, they worked. Ive still got a little vibe but I think its mostly mud grip tires. I felt that if I had to do some high speed manuever with no sway bars I would get myself in trouble. I was running back and forth from NC to SC on the interstate so that was the main reason I hooked the front back up. I took the rear sway bar off long before I did the OME springs, I never missed it. I think the Rovertym will net closer to 3". 285 is a lot of tire, 255's seems to be a better fit. All that being said if you have any bad bushings worn rear a frame ball joint worn steering parts you will most definately find them when you throw the taller springs on. I am going to likely go to some Bilsteins and put my OMEs on my RRC, unless someone will buy my Defender.
__________________
Poor gas mileage gets you to the best places on earth
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old May 21st, 2009, 09:31 PM
Rugbier's Avatar
Rugbier
Status: Offline
Gustavo
110 Tdi - 110 N/A - D3 HSE - RRS SC
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Peoples Republic of Marylandistan
Posts: 5,884
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by cgalpin
This is what I have. No anti-sway bars. I suggest trying it and seeing if you have any vibes before doing anything else.
Thanks

Follow-up Post:

Quote:
Originally Posted by ini88
I went a bit over and set up my truck different. Instead of lowering shock towers I extended mine. Rockware towers in the back and Rover Hybrid externals in the front. 14" Bilsteins 7100s w/ Reservoir valved at 360/80 all 4 corners. They are very long and the valving is a tad on the high side I think. On road they hold me up straight. Off road I feel a bit too stiff. The body moves more then than I like. they push up too hard and instead of having the truck stay level and making the suspension do all the work. I never ran Fox shocks but I bet they are basically the same thing. Also, take out the Heim joint and run the hard bushing instead. East Coast water/mud/sand eat those up real quick.
Thanks

Follow-up Post:

Quote:
Originally Posted by rover4x4
2" OME is hit and miss. I did the rear links to get rid of the growl when I let off the gas, they worked. Ive still got a little vibe but I think its mostly mud grip tires. I felt that if I had to do some high speed manuever with no sway bars I would get myself in trouble. I was running back and forth from NC to SC on the interstate so that was the main reason I hooked the front back up. I took the rear sway bar off long before I did the OME springs, I never missed it. I think the Rovertym will net closer to 3". 285 is a lot of tire, 255's seems to be a better fit. All that being said if you have any bad bushings worn rear a frame ball joint worn steering parts you will most definately find them when you throw the taller springs on. I am going to likely go to some Bilsteins and put my OMEs on my RRC, unless someone will buy my Defender.
Well if I go OME all around a set of Bilstein with 1500 miles will be available *LOL*

So you are comfortable with the front in place? how does it behave with the back loose and the front tie when off road?
__________________
NO SIGNATURE
Reply With Quote
  #16  
Old May 21st, 2009, 09:40 PM
rover4x4's Avatar
rover4x4
Status: Offline
Phillip
1995 SW #487/500
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: The Old North State
Posts: 7,523
Registry
I dont even notice the rear being off in the woods, I imagine I get a little more wheel travel its been so long since I've wheeled with the rear on I cant comment. The front really makes a difference on the road, I have not wheeled with it off. Id order my springs from Expedition Exchange and get the shocks from e-shocks or similar. I am running the spring isolators and rubber shock tower rings, I couldnt tell a difference.


What bilsteins, the stock replacements from AB?
__________________
Poor gas mileage gets you to the best places on earth
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old May 21st, 2009, 09:57 PM
Rugbier's Avatar
Rugbier
Status: Offline
Gustavo
110 Tdi - 110 N/A - D3 HSE - RRS SC
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Peoples Republic of Marylandistan
Posts: 5,884
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by rover4x4
I dont even notice the rear being off in the woods, I imagine I get a little more wheel travel its been so long since I've wheeled with the rear on I cant comment. The front really makes a difference on the road, I have not wheeled with it off. Id order my springs from Expedition Exchange and get the shocks from e-shocks or similar. I am running the spring isolators and rubber shock tower rings, I couldnt tell a difference.


What bilsteins, the stock replacements from AB?

Cool, I will.

Yes the stock replacement
__________________
NO SIGNATURE
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old May 21st, 2009, 11:11 PM
Buckon37s's Avatar
Buckon37s
Status: Offline
Buck
Re-Fendered 90
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Temecula, CA, USA
Posts: 3,376
Keep in mind that if you go with the SG springs, they are 2 stage springs. The guys over at Pirate figured the top rate was 200lb. This is the "correct" spring weight for these rigs. But, the stock springs are much stiffer. This will cause more body roll than stock. How much more, couldn't tell you. Your truck will drive much nicer on fire roads or at speed offroad than a stock or standard coil lifted truck.

If you do end up keeping a sway bar, keep the one on the rear. It is the better way to go for a host of reasons, but specific to your vehicle, it will force the front to travel a little free-er off road, and the radius arms act similar to a sway bar already.
__________________
2009 King of the Hammers

BUCK Wild Racing
Driver: Me
Co-driver: Pat Quirk
Team 911

Rover Tracks
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
PSC
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
DJ Safety
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
West Coast Rovers
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Reel Driveline
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Made it further than half of the other guys, but the Hammers won.
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old May 22nd, 2009, 06:52 AM
rover4x4's Avatar
rover4x4
Status: Offline
Phillip
1995 SW #487/500
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: The Old North State
Posts: 7,523
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by Buckon37s
Keep in mind that if you go with the SG springs, they are 2 stage springs. The guys over at Pirate figured the top rate was 200lb. This is the "correct" spring weight for these rigs. But, the stock springs are much stiffer. This will cause more body roll than stock. How much more, couldn't tell you. Your truck will drive much nicer on fire roads or at speed offroad than a stock or standard coil lifted truck.

If you do end up keeping a sway bar, keep the one on the rear. It is the better way to go for a host of reasons, but specific to your vehicle, it will force the front to travel a little free-er off road, and the radius arms act similar to a sway bar already.

All that rear does it limit the rear travel. I didnt even notice it was gone with stock springs. Just as well run no sways as to run no front.
__________________
Poor gas mileage gets you to the best places on earth
Reply With Quote
  #20  
Old May 22nd, 2009, 08:19 AM
Treuwer's Avatar
Treuwer
Status: Offline
Trae Reuwer
94 D90
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Ellicott City- MD
Posts: 255
Gustavo, if you want to see how a soft top with no sways feels PM me. I'm close and I'll let you try out my set up to get a feel. I would ask if you could bring that 430 I saw a few threads back... but it's not necessary.

Rovertym 3" with Rancho 9000s, 35" BFG AT.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Lower Navigation
Go Back   Defender Source > Defender & Series Technical Discussions > Defender Technical Discussions

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
FOR SALE: 1989 Land Rover Range Rover Classic (lifted) Rovercox For Sale - Vehicles 33 May 28th, 2014 09:44 PM
Best way across the US Mike Hippert Defender Technical Discussions 173 April 29th, 2010 04:56 PM
A Great Read... CDN90 Misc. Chit-Chat 6 December 16th, 2009 12:25 PM
Rookie question... How to determine if my truck is lifted or not. KKilo23 Defender Technical Discussions 31 July 6th, 2009 10:55 AM
Truck will not START ? Weldon Defender Technical Discussions 28 December 15th, 2005 12:58 PM


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:25 AM.


Copyright