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  #21  
Old May 22nd, 2009, 08:30 AM
Roverlab
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Trevor Griffiths
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I would also suggest that the front suspension is less likely to have as much down travel with stock arms even with slightly taller springs and longer travel shocks, so keeping the front sway bar to maintain road manners isn't much of a compromise.
At the rear, with the exisiting shocks and fitting taller springs, I would suggest relocating the upper shock mounts to recover the 2" of down travel "lost" with the taller spring, w/o the sway bar.
And, one can gain more brake hose travel by loosening the tee on the rear axle, straighten the mounting bracket, rotate the tee 90* and put it together. It can be done without losing any fluid.

Going to Rausch Creek Wednesday- want to go?
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  #22  
Old May 22nd, 2009, 09:27 AM
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Gustavo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roverlab
I would also suggest that the front suspension is less likely to have as much down travel with stock arms even with slightly taller springs and longer travel shocks, so keeping the front sway bar to maintain road manners isn't much of a compromise.
At the rear, with the exisiting shocks and fitting taller springs, I would suggest relocating the upper shock mounts to recover the 2" of down travel "lost" with the taller spring, w/o the sway bar.
And, one can gain more brake hose travel by loosening the tee on the rear axle, straighten the mounting bracket, rotate the tee 90* and put it together. It can be done without losing any fluid.

Going to Rausch Creek Wednesday- want to go?
Trevor, check your pm about RC
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  #23  
Old May 22nd, 2009, 09:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rover4x4
All that rear does it limit the rear travel. I didnt even notice it was gone with stock springs. Just as well run no sways as to run no front.
Disagree. The rear is the one to keep as the radius design of the front already supplies some sway control. There are many other reasons why the back will work better, offroad as well. Feel free to do research.

I have a completely custom swaybar for go fast. It's on the back.
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  #24  
Old May 22nd, 2009, 10:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Buckon37s
Disagree. The rear is the one to keep as the radius design of the front already supplies some sway control. There are many other reasons why the back will work better, offroad as well. Feel free to do research.

I have a completely custom swaybar for go fast. It's on the back.
Maybe something after market only on the rear. The stock job is too small to do squat alone in the rear.
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  #25  
Old May 22nd, 2009, 12:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Treuwer
Gustavo, if you want to see how a soft top with no sways feels PM me. I'm close and I'll let you try out my set up to get a feel. I would ask if you could bring that 430 I saw a few threads back... but it's not necessary.

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  #26  
Old May 22nd, 2009, 12:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cellulararrest
Maybe something after market only on the rear. The stock job is too small to do squat alone in the rear.
If that's the case, which I suppose it could be, then the best thing to do is leave both on and disconnect the front when you wheel. If you wheel with the front only your making a bad situation worse.
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  #27  
Old May 22nd, 2009, 02:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Buckon37s
Disagree. The rear is the one to keep as the radius design of the front already supplies some sway control. There are many other reasons why the back will work better, offroad as well. Feel free to do research.

I have a completely custom swaybar for go fast. It's on the back.

I know there is merit to this, and as far as suspension is considered youre light years away from the OME HD/MD setup.
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