Timing Belt Prep - Defender Source
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Old September 7th, 2011, 08:57 PM
soturi
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Matthew
1984 300tdi
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Timing Belt Prep

Alright - just want to make sure I've got everything together for this:

http://www.johncraddockltd.co.uk/pro...with_gears.php
http://www.johncraddockltd.co.uk/pro...300_t_d_i_.php
http://www.johncraddockltd.co.uk/pro..._300_t_d_i.php
http://www.johncraddockltd.co.uk/pro...er_300_tdi.php

...should be about it, yea?

also, i thought i saw a rover dealer somewhere who had a fancy-pants puller they'd developed for this (and other) jobs. of course, i can't remember who it was now, but... does "fancy-pants puller thing" ring anyone's bells?
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Old September 7th, 2011, 09:36 PM
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Have you had your TDI front cover off before? The belt kit you're ordering is for late model tdi's. The earlier ones have a belt guide on the tensioner. I'd pull the front off before you place an order for parts. Then for the parts, I'd check with RDS, RovahFarm, DAP, and BritPac.

I have a late model one myself (mfg'd May 2001). Just today, I finished changing mine, here's my parts list;

timing belt ERR1092
tensioner LHP100860
tensioner idler LHV100150
crank shaft seal ERR4575
crankshaft "O" ring ERR4710
front cover gasket ERR7293
serpentine belt ERR5911

I see no reason to change the belt gear on the crank, unless you have a very early tdi & I believe those are lacking the belt guide (rim on the front & back of the gear & tensioner). The belt gear slides right off too, and there's an O ring & seal behind it. To get the gear to seat inside the new seal you may have to put the front pully back on temporarily, with the 27mm bolt, to push the gear into the new seal.

This was my 2nd belt change (118K). When I change mine, I pull the the entire grill, radiator & IC, etc. It is so much easier to have the entire front clear to be able to work on the belt replacement. What can be the hardest part of the job is getting the crank pulley off. I use a strap wrench to hold the pulley while I wack on a big bar (3/4"drive) & socket (27mm). My pulley slides right off without using a puller. I gently pry it away from the belt housing. I mark all the parts as to their original location & write numbers on the cover bolts & corresponding holes since there are several lengths to them. Should you find you need the older tensioner (ERR1972), the one with the belt guide, I have one for sale. It has the better bearing brand, INA (see "Parts for Sale" in this forum). I also put a new bearing in the serp belt tensioner while I had it all apart. That bearing can be had from NAPA, pt # 6203-2RSJ for about $12.

Look on YouTube too, there are some helpful films there about the 300Tdi belt change.
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Old September 8th, 2011, 07:14 AM
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Mike
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Make sure you loosen the crank bolt before you take anything off. As stated above it is easier if you take the radiator out. You can see things much better to get them lined up. I made a cardboard template to put the timing belt cover bolts in so that it would be easier to remember which bolt went where. There is a specific bolt pattern torque sequence which I put on my template to make things easier.
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Old September 8th, 2011, 08:50 AM
soturi
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Matthew
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The engine's a 21L which is a late model, yes?

dennis: any issue with using the strap wrench to tighten the crank pulley bolt back to spec during reassembly?
MC: if you loosen the crank bolt before taking off the serp belt, how do you re-tighten the crank bolt when you put everything together?

also, i found the puller thing i was talking about: http://www.difflock.com/buyersguide/...it/index.shtml ...if i'm reading that properly, that will not only help with the crank pulley, but also allow me to advance my IP timing in the future?
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Old September 8th, 2011, 12:08 PM
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My engine's serial number begins with 16L, but I'd still pull my cover off before I ordered parts, especially if you order them off-shore. Look at Rovers North too, they have a kit, TBK300L for $99. It has a belt & both tensioner parts. They also show a kit for the early engines too TBK300E.

As far as getting the proper torque on the crank bolt, I simply mark the bolt and the pulley and re-tighten the bolt to that setting/position.
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Old September 8th, 2011, 05:22 PM
soturi
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Matthew
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hmm - so where'd you get your build date? is it stamped on the block somewhere? or just something you knew when the engine was put in?
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Old September 8th, 2011, 06:19 PM
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On the turbo side of the engine, there's a sticker on the 1st cylinder block area. On the bottom left of the sticker is printed 09-05-01 14:27. Being european nomenclature it means May 9th 2001, 2:27pm. Since mine was a complete Land Rover re-power kit, the mfg date was in other paper work too with the date stated as May 9 2001.
The block sticker also says MAXION INTERNATIONAL and Rover on it, and has a bar code too.
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Old September 8th, 2011, 07:55 PM
soturi
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Matthew
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damn... mine's likely long gone, but i'll check. thanks for the heads up.

the truck is my DD, so it's sorta unfeasible for me to tear into it and THEN order parts... any other ideas for determining which kit is appropriate? if i put the later model with a guide-less tensioner on an early engine, would it hurt anything? the 21L is an EGR code... when did EGR first show up in 300s?
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Old September 8th, 2011, 08:13 PM
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I'm not sure when the EGR models started, I know when Rovers North was advertising the conversion kits, their pictures in early 2001, they showed the motors with EGR's. In various parts listings I've seen, they show that the late model 300tdi's has VIN's, >VA117354, and take the "rimless" tensioners.

When this >VIN number was built is unknown to me. They'd have to have been for countries other than the USA.
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Old September 11th, 2011, 05:08 PM
soturi
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Matthew
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alright. just found this: http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...ad.php?t=17199


Quote:
Originally Posted by diesel_jim View Post
300Tdi: there wree several types of these.

the early defenders/disco's had a plain engine, no EGR (Exhaust gas recirculation) or immobilised FIP.
so... fair to assume a 21L (egr code) is a late model 300?
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Old September 13th, 2011, 09:44 PM
soturi
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Matthew
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Ok - head casting says, if I'm reading it right, 3/95. Is that considered early or late?
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