Timing and Overheating - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old July 4th, 2005, 07:01 PM
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Michael Kerr
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Timing and Overheating

Trying to set the timing on a 94 D90. Can anyone tell me where the distributor clamp bolt is? I have searched quite a bit and feeling a little stupid by now! Any general tips on setting the timing. I searched the posts but haven't found much on timing.

Also having the overheating curse that many have had. And have read most of the posts on that subject. Is it possible that these vehicles aren't designed to idle in 100+ deg temps? That is the only time I have an overheating issue now.

In the manual is mentions the possibility of overheating due to timing. I know the timing is off a little, but can this really make it overheat?

Thanks
Michael
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  #2  
Old July 4th, 2005, 09:11 PM
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m j
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Hey Michael,

I've heard the timing thing also! I too have overheating problems, but haven't gotten around to checking it.

One thing I did do was put in a four core. This hasn't completely solved it, but I needed a new rad, as all the fine were completely rotted. This weekend I had a chance to do some wheelin and see if the new rad would actually work. It helped immensely, but didn't completely solve the problem. The temp jumped up to around 240; normal running temp is 190-200 (I put in a VDO mechanical temp gauge). I did notice that it came back down to a "normal" range pretty quickly. While wheelin before she would jump into the red and stay there for most of the trail.

My next step is to flush the block. And hopefully check out the timing too. If you get around to it; I'd be interested in hearing what you found out.

cheers,
jabber
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  #3  
Old July 4th, 2005, 10:19 PM
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Having the timing off by too much either way can cause overheating definitely, as well as significant performance drops.

The entire area where the holddown nut is get pretty gunked up sometimes, which makes it hard to find. Access is pretty bad too, which makes it even worse. It's about 3/4" to the right of where the distributor goes into the timing cover. It's actually a nut which threads onto a stud that sticks pretty much straight up. You can get to it from the front of the engine with a 9/16 open end wrench, and you only really need to loosen it 1/4 to 1/2 a turn.

If you are having overheat probelms while idling, most likely its the fan clutch going bad. Not many options out there for upgraded parts either unfortunately since the stock water pump uses an oddball threading (surprise surprise). I'm looking into a few solutions, but time and funding is short for experimentation right now.

-Hans
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  #4  
Old July 4th, 2005, 11:03 PM
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Robert Ragland
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jabber
Hey Michael,

... The temp jumped up to around 240; normal running temp is 190-200 (I put in a VDO mechanical temp gauge).
If memory serves correct, isn't 240 well into the range where damage happens? I thought 220 was the magic number not to go above.
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  #5  
Old July 4th, 2005, 11:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ragland
If memory serves correct, isn't 240 well into the range where damage happens? I thought 220 was the magic number not to go above.
Maybe it was 220 - 230. All I know, is I shut it down for a little while...
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  #6  
Old July 5th, 2005, 12:41 AM
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Chris Davis
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220, 221---whatever it takes.
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  #7  
Old July 5th, 2005, 11:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hans
Having the timing off by too much either way can cause overheating definitely, as well as significant performance drops.

The entire area where the holddown nut is get pretty gunked up sometimes, which makes it hard to find. Access is pretty bad too, which makes it even worse. It's about 3/4" to the right of where the distributor goes into the timing cover. It's actually a nut which threads onto a stud that sticks pretty much straight up. You can get to it from the front of the engine with a 9/16 open end wrench, and you only really need to loosen it 1/4 to 1/2 a turn.

If you are having overheat probelms while idling, most likely its the fan clutch going bad. Not many options out there for upgraded parts either unfortunately since the stock water pump uses an oddball threading (surprise surprise). I'm looking into a few solutions, but time and funding is short for experimentation right now.

-Hans
Mine is a 15mm bolt, you need an open end box wrench and it is a real PITA to get too. Here is a pic of the back side showing the dist and the bolt without the nut

Quote:
Originally Posted by Davis
220, 221---whatever it takes.
Now your talking electrical!
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Old July 5th, 2005, 11:19 AM
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Robert Ragland
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Mike, I'm dealing with the overheat issue as well. When my factory gauge was hitting the lower of the two dots in the hot zone, my top hose and lower hose were both around 195 before I replaced the thermostat and the dead fan clutch. While this isn't exactly overheating, it was only taking five minutes of idle time before this would happen. I'm still not satisfied with how quickly the truck will run hot. None of my prior non-LR trucks had this issue. Replacing the factory gauge with a mechanical VDO is on my list.
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  #9  
Old July 6th, 2005, 01:22 AM
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Michael Kerr
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Thanks!

Thanks Mike - that helped a lot and thanks for the other info very helpful. Just found the site - I Love it!

While we are on the issue of metric and standard size bolts... I have had 3 rovers now, a series III, a discovery and now finally a D90! VEryone of them seems to have a mix of metric and standard bolts - or am I crazy? I assumed that would be normal for the 1974, but for the new vehicles?

Those that have added the VDO mechanical gauge or are planning to, do you know the exact model number. I've been to their site but its not all too clear.
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  #10  
Old July 6th, 2005, 09:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mkerr2112
Those that have added the VDO mechanical gauge or are planning to, do you know the exact model number. I've been to their site but its not all too clear.
http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...30&postcount=4
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  #11  
Old July 6th, 2005, 09:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ragland
Mike, I'm dealing with the overheat issue as well. When my factory gauge was hitting the lower of the two dots in the hot zone, my top hose and lower hose were both around 195 before I replaced the thermostat and the dead fan clutch. While this isn't exactly overheating, it was only taking five minutes of idle time before this would happen. I'm still not satisfied with how quickly the truck will run hot. None of my prior non-LR trucks had this issue. Replacing the factory gauge with a mechanical VDO is on my list.

Is there a differance now between the upper and lower hose with the new fan clutch? There should be a good drop from the upper to lower hose.


Quote:
Originally Posted by mkerr2112
Thanks Mike - that helped a lot and thanks for the other info very helpful. Just found the site - I Love it!

While we are on the issue of metric and standard size bolts... I have had 3 rovers now, a series III, a discovery and now finally a D90! VEryone of them seems to have a mix of metric and standard bolts - or am I crazy? I assumed that would be normal for the 1974, but for the new vehicles?

Those that have added the VDO mechanical gauge or are planning to, do you know the exact model number. I've been to their site but its not all too clear.
LOL, I think depending on the owner they may have qiet the variaty of bolts, I replace some with standard bolts because I can get them cheaper and stronger, like the bolts on my driveshafts have all been replaced with fine thread grade 8 standard bolts.

I think the hard part about the VDO temp gauge is getting a sender that you can screw into the block. Curently I am running a Auto meter in the 4.0 (97 engine different sender I think) and one of the adaptors that came with the gauge bolted right in.
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