Time to de-rust the undercarriage - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old October 6th, 2013, 11:43 PM
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Stephen LeBlanc
1994 Defender 90
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Time to de-rust the undercarriage

Ok friends.. I'll be spending the fall/winter sipping beer and chipping away at my D90 to get her ready for the spring. Any suggestions with the rust/mud undercarriage? Wire brush and elbow grease? I own a power washer. Now a good idea for the loose stuff? I also own a sand blaster. Not a good idea? Back to wire brush and beer?
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  #2  
Old October 7th, 2013, 01:16 AM
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evilfij
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How bad is it?

The major rust spots are behind the transmission crossmember and the rear crossmember.

The outside rust is less of a concern than rust from the inside out. I would powerwash the crap out of it, wire brush on an angle grinder, rust converter, primer, chassis paint and the. Waxoyl the inside and out.

Or just do a frame off and have the frame galvanized.
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Old October 7th, 2013, 11:24 AM
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Stephen LeBlanc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij View Post
How bad is it?

The major rust spots are behind the transmission crossmember and the rear crossmember.

The outside rust is less of a concern than rust from the inside out. I would powerwash the crap out of it, wire brush on an angle grinder, rust converter, primer, chassis paint and the. Waxoyl the inside and out.

Or just do a frame off and have the frame galvanized.

Thanks for the great advice! I'm not sure how bad the rust is on the crossmembers. The rear one has a few holes that I was hoping to patch up (rather than a costly replacement). I'll dig in to see behind trannycrossmember.

Thanks again. I'll be chipping away all winter, a few hours/week. Wish me luck!
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  #4  
Old October 7th, 2013, 12:48 PM
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Mack Crouch
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Sounds like you are off to a good start. If your rear crossmember does have some rust holes, I would definitely recommend replacing it now. In the long run it will be an easier and a more permanent fix. At a very minimum, get the crossmember sand blasted inside and out and make sure it's not worse than you thought.
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Old October 7th, 2013, 04:17 PM
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Andrew Najarian
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I agree with Macker. By the way, if you have air tools, a needle scaler is great for getting into certain areas, and make sure you have a variety of brush sizes, shapes and rigidity to get into all the areas.

I stripped mine to metal, then used POR15 Prep & Ready, then POR 15, then a Flat Black Top Coat.
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