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  #21  
Old December 18th, 2008, 09:53 AM
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If your scuttle vents are completely closed, you might be getting cold air through the oblong hole where the speedo cable goes through the firewall. Rover just used some silly-cone on that spot.
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  #22  
Old December 18th, 2008, 11:47 AM
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George Kase
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Don,
your heater core might be plugged up with debris and dirt...that would cut air flow from the fan...

Also, as to warming up my Rover, I spoke with Chris at Badger yesterday and he suggested changing the heater air intake to take it's air from the cab of the truck instead of the out side air....I'm going to try setting that up this weekend...
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  #23  
Old December 18th, 2008, 12:20 PM
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Don Andrews
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gkase
Don,
your heater core might be plugged up with debris and dirt...that would cut air flow from the fan...

Also, as to warming up my Rover, I spoke with Chris at Badger yesterday and he suggested changing the heater air intake to take it's air from the cab of the truck instead of the out side air....I'm going to try setting that up this weekend...
I've tried figuring our how to open up the heater box, but can't figure it out... I loosened the bolts in the footwell, but it is still attached... I think it may be connected somehow from inside the cab somewhere - maybe behind the dash? (that seems dumb!)

Any insight how to get it open?

WRT the taking intake air from the cab, how would you set that up? Put a hole somewhere in the passenger footwell?


Don
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  #24  
Old December 18th, 2008, 12:55 PM
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The heater box has to come out to get it open. Its bolted to the bulkhead at the top, and through the footwell - there are no fasteners hidden behind the dash. Also, the only way to "open" it is to pull the heater core out.
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  #25  
Old December 18th, 2008, 01:22 PM
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Don Andrews
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Is it a hard job to do? I changed a heater core on my F150 a few years ago - about a 45m job...
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  #26  
Old December 18th, 2008, 01:25 PM
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Keith Kreutzer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xrover
Looking back I realize I may have been over zealous in putting such a list out. The only thing you really have to worry about (in a NAS) is the left side of your body. Here's your cheapest solution:

Can you get those for RHD trucks?
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  #27  
Old December 18th, 2008, 02:30 PM
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Jim Cheney
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DonFromWhitby
Is it a hard job to do? I changed a heater core on my F150 a few years ago - about a 45m job...
Its more than 45 minutes but I swapped a heater core in about 3 hours one time. The worst part is dealing with the coolant. Fortunately the heater is pretty high and the lines pinch well. One thing to watch though is that the plastic part that the hose fits over might snap off easily if it has become old and brittle.
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  #28  
Old December 18th, 2008, 03:17 PM
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Len Cater
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Quote:
Originally Posted by revor
Can you get those for RHD trucks?
Of course you can. In fact you can strike a deal with someone who has a NAS LHD truck.
This is of course provided they are not reversible.
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  #29  
Old December 18th, 2008, 10:48 PM
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I have thought of doing the following for my truck......

see parts at following link http://completeoffroad.com/c-59848-o...t-heaters.html

1) Take off the heater box and remove the matrix.
2) Remove the blower and then seal the hole......essentially I now have a box with a rectangular hole going across the bulkhead into the dash "plenum".
3) Take the Heatercraft heater and mount or place it inside the box.
4) Attach two hoses.
5) Have one hose split off and either directly mount to the defrost vents or mount very near them.
6) Have other hose split into two or four vents drilled/mounted into dash plenum....perhaps two facing into cabin and the other two directed at feet.
7) Mount control switch to control blower speed.

Now you have the "air intake" essentially being cabin air recirculated from the plenum going through the heater matrix and being blown directly through the various vents. Would not use the OEM controls but use the new ones.

Drawbacks: No fresh air intake. No ability to control between defrost vents versus cabin (its all on or all off). This can be worked out if you can mount the tubing on the other side of the diverter flap or setup an electronic controlled damper/flap in the vent tubing.

Questions: Does the hot/cold lever control and an actual valve that control temp of water going into matrix or is it mechanical flap that somehow mixes air??

Does anyone know the BTU's of the OEM matrix??

Does anyone know of a electronic controlled damper/flap that can go inline with 2" vent tubing??
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  #30  
Old December 19th, 2008, 12:30 PM
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Scott T
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I'm not real experienced with combating this problem, but have seen these suggestions, which make sense, over the years...

Drop Curtain -- Even if you have the hard top, if you aren't using the rear for passenger space, the heater will be much more effective..

Get More Heat Output -- Oldie, but apparently goodie. If you close down the area needing to be heated, and increase output, you should have a winning combination.

Sealing the Doors (Idea #1) -- The original creator of this site had these fabbed up to pull the door in tight against the top seal. I'm not sure I like the idea of them possibly falling off and hitting me, nor the inconvenience of removing and replacing every time you open the door, but offered up for your consideration none-the-less.

Sealing Air Leaks -- Another option to seal the gaps around the sliding window door tops and the factory soft, or hard top. Pipe insulation zip tied on seems to work really well...

And if it is still cold int he cab, I'd definitely consider some seat heaters (butt and back), they help to warm you at the core..
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  #31  
Old December 21st, 2008, 09:10 PM
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Cliff
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Not meant to hijack but..

I think in some respects the old style ac/heat design of the 110's like 1993 were better.
You had a choice of inside or outside air.
In my '97 ST w/ Badger top a few years back I was driving across UT and CO in a snowstorm.
I was pretty much the only one of a few on the road.
It was well below 0 out. I have one of the vent "scoops" on the wing. So at 50mph, how cold was that air blowing into the matrix?
I had the heater on high the whole time and was VERY chilly unless I had gloves, hat, jacket, sweater ect on.
If I had the option like on the older trucks to select inside air, I would get warmer and warmer, not keep trying to heat up -15F air!

I am actually pondering getting an older system and replacing mine w/ it.

The A/c sucks too, as its picking up all the hot air from the floorboards. If you could select outside air, it would be better.

I was driving from Orlando to Daytona one summer, and yes it was 98 out and humid, but even with the a/c on high it was cooler to open the front vents, side windows and roll up the rear window.
A shame having 98F air blowing on you is better than your AC! (I had it checked out at the dealer the next week, and it was working fine, just couldnt keep up)

So if anyone has an old 110 system they can loan me for mock up let me know!
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  #32  
Old December 21st, 2008, 10:45 PM
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Dendy Jarrett
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I have seen and it has been explained to me that the heater opening on the bulk head is smaller than the opening to the fan box mounted to that opening. The idea (according to a good source) was that by making the hole opening smaller, it would cause the air to be forced into the cabin better (smaller opening causes air to speed up when forced through a smaller space was the thought). In reality, that flat surface that is encroaching the opening of the fan box has the opposite effect thus causing negative pressure (air blowing back against the fan) and hence causing less output and causing undue strain on the blower motor causing them to have a shorter life.
If you take things apart, it will all make sense. Simply cut the opening in the bulk head larger to allow all the air coming out of the fan box to enter the cabin. The one that I have seen that was done this way, had twice the output of the stock setup.

Just one possible solution. Have Chris at Badger make you a drop curtain to go behind the front seats. This will double your heat since you are only heating half the truck.

Just some thoughts.

Thanks
Dendy
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  #33  
Old December 23rd, 2008, 12:24 AM
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I recommend slowing down on the highway...

that or some 3/4 x 1/2" sticky-back cmaper tape strategically placed. and some black 3M putty at the base of the roof and windscreen and maybe at the roof to roofside join if you can see any gaps in those places.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Gkase
I haven't been able to find any threads on ways to actually seal the doors of my D90...I've got new door seals but there are still major breezes blowin through...anybody got a better brain for appropriate search terms? Ideally, there would be a larger more pliable door seal that would actually work!
thanks
George
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  #34  
Old January 2nd, 2009, 10:09 PM
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George Kase
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Thought I'd report in on my efforts at staying warmer...made up a drop curtain and put some closed cell foam weatherseal tape on the edges of the doors to help the stock rubber weatherseal do what its supposed to do...so far, it seems to have really helped a lot...I would say the drop curtain is really worth doing as it gives the heater a chance to create a positive pressure of warm(er) air...
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  #35  
Old January 3rd, 2009, 03:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gkase
Thought I'd report in on my efforts at staying warmer...made up a drop curtain and put some closed cell foam weatherseal tape on the edges of the doors to help the stock rubber weatherseal do what its supposed to do...so far, it seems to have really helped a lot...I would say the drop curtain is really worth doing as it gives the heater a chance to create a positive pressure of warm(er) air...
I've got two left...
~Art
amvigil(at)comcast(dot)net
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  #36  
Old January 6th, 2009, 12:53 PM
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That was me at Lowes in glenview. I live in northbrook and work in the glen. I would like to meet you chicago guys some time. The best thing I have found for staying warm is my down coat.
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  #37  
Old January 6th, 2009, 01:21 PM
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Andrew Najarian
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sommer_90
That was me at Lowes in glenview. I live in northbrook and work in the glen. I would like to meet you chicago guys some time. The best thing I have found for staying warm is my down coat.
Yeah, I was hoping we could get a Chicago Happy Hour setup like the CO and NOVA ones but I only got one response. I'll bump the thread to the top and see if we can get a group together...
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  #38  
Old January 6th, 2009, 01:28 PM
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count me in...
George
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  #39  
Old November 29th, 2011, 10:15 PM
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Joshua
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So, I'm pretty sure this is a common issue, but I get a lot of air coming into the front cab through the door bottom right around where the door latch is...but along where the door shuts to the truck. I already installed new Series full-door seals over the Summer to the truck, since I had some holes in my old one. I have a drop curtain (top and bottom already). Heater is awesome...works great, there's just a strong draft through the back of the front door bottoms. Maybe I rubber mallet-ed the seal too snug, and it's letting air through?
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  #40  
Old November 30th, 2011, 12:26 AM
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Paul
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rijosho View Post
I already installed new Series full-door seals over the Summer to the truck
Series door seals?! You're joking or mistaken, right? Series seals suck to install, hardly seal...
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