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  #1  
Old July 8th, 2012, 02:43 PM
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Jason
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Need to pull my steering wheel and the puller I have doesn't fit the threads

What size/thread do I need for an '83 steering wheel?

Thanks
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  #2  
Old July 8th, 2012, 02:52 PM
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You don't need a puller. Slacken the nut. Don't take it right off. The push / pull twist the wheel until it pop off. 5 min job.
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  #3  
Old July 8th, 2012, 02:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leastonce
You don't need a puller. Slacken the nut. Don't take it right off. The push / pull twist the wheel until it pop off. 5 min job.
No nut on the wheel
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  #4  
Old July 8th, 2012, 06:23 PM
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Put on a nut. Beat 7 barrels of crap out of wheel. Open beer. Relax!
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Soapy water / KY jelly, etc. is is basically a must. Yes, good idea to remove trim panels - only takes 5 more minutes to do so.
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  #5  
Old July 8th, 2012, 11:34 PM
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So my wheel is about 10 degrees off from straight and it's starting to bug me. I went to pop the wheel off and re align it, when I see the words" use puller tool do not use hammer". Lol. Well I don't have one and before I go about making one, how did you guys smack it off without breaking plastic bits?
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  #6  
Old July 9th, 2012, 12:41 AM
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I got a cheap puller at a auto parts store, or you could use 3 bolts and a piece of thick ass flat stock..
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Old July 9th, 2012, 07:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by revtor
I got a cheap puller at a auto parts store, or you could use 3 bolts and a piece of thick ass flat stock..
I have some half inch flat bar. Was gonna use that to make one if need be
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  #8  
Old July 9th, 2012, 08:38 AM
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unless your steering wheel is welded on you wont need a puller!!
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Soapy water / KY jelly, etc. is is basically a must. Yes, good idea to remove trim panels - only takes 5 more minutes to do so.
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  #9  
Old July 9th, 2012, 10:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leastonce View Post
unless your steering wheel is welded on you wont need a puller!!
Rapped mine with a rubber mallet and rapped it to the point I locked the ignition/wheel!

Searching other threads it looks like my only option is remove and replace the ignition switch?
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  #10  
Old July 9th, 2012, 10:39 AM
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if the wheel hasnt come off in years, you very well may need a puller.. The suggestion of leaving the loosened nut on is a good one if you're just going to be wacking and thrashig it, so when it does come off it doesnt smack you in the face.
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  #11  
Old July 9th, 2012, 11:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by revtor View Post
if the wheel hasnt come off in years, you very well may need a puller.. The suggestion of leaving the loosened nut on is a good one if you're just going to be wacking and thrashig it, so when it does come off it doesnt smack you in the face.
Yeah I broke down and rented (free basically) a puller from O'Reilly. Mine has some rust and doesn't look like it has come off in a while, but it also looks like the PO fitted a new indicator/DIP but he would've removed the wheel for that. He also lost the nut so I need to size a new one.

The smallest bolt size in the puller set is 1/4", which is too big. So I tried M6 and it's close enough. There looks to be some thread damage though so i will probably just rethread after I'm done to M6.

The PO also broke the clamp on the indicator so that will probably be replaced along with one of the missing clamps that go in the steering column cover.

All in all, it will be a pricey week and I'll probably be only half way there!
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  #12  
Old July 9th, 2012, 09:51 PM
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Well it's finally off.

A little Blaster and a puller did it, after bending two sets of bolts and rethreading the wheel.

Now on to fix what I bused on the way out...
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  #13  
Old July 9th, 2012, 10:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leastonce View Post
unless your steering wheel is welded on you wont need a puller!!
I would argue that this is not good advice. 30 second job with a puller from unscrewing the plastic wheel center cover to wheel off the column in your hand. The older style wheels on the 36 spline columns I am pretty sure(like 99% sure) are not tapered the same way the newer styles were. They will not easily budge without a lot of force. The newer wheels you can just kinda wiggle by bumping opposing sides with your palm a bit after the nut is off to knock it off. Pullers were sold on ebay UK for like 10 quid or you could make one on your own fairly easily(especially after looking at the ones online).
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  #14  
Old July 9th, 2012, 11:27 PM
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I'm inclined to say use the puller, at least for older trucks like mine.

Rental is free. I ended up using the one I bought one at Napa for $10.

In the end even with the puller I bent a total of 4 bolts.

Cracking it with a rubber hammer engaged the steering column lock so it just caused more problems than it fixed.

To that end, how do you disengage the column lock? The traditional wheel/ignition key turning ain't working out....
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  #15  
Old July 9th, 2012, 11:45 PM
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I assume you mean the column lock is engaged now and you can't turn the key to disengage it? Put the key in and while trying to turn it apply pressure in a direction(try different directions until you find the right one, up, down, left, right, etc.) to slightly move the column itself(think like wiggling it just instead of wiggling applying pressure in one direction). If that makes sense. I've had this happen to me multiple times and just sort of leaning into the steering wheel in different directions until you get the right one will allow you to turn the key eventually.
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  #16  
Old July 9th, 2012, 11:57 PM
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No way my wheel comes off without a puller unless you want to wreck the column beating on it. I just bought a generic, cheap multi-puller set from AutoZone and some extra long M6 bolts from ACE and it works great. You do have to thread the bolts well into the wheel before trying to get it off if you don't want them to strip and pull out.
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  #17  
Old July 10th, 2012, 12:06 AM
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Thanks Greenspan, I got it.

Twisted and turned wheel/ignition to no avail so I just popped it out with a few raps of the mallet and some negotiation. I wanted to try to identify what switch and lock combo I have anyway so I wanted to pull it. But no part numbers that I can see. I've got a 1983 110 with 200Tdi, so I was trying to see if they did any changes to the switch and lock assembly when they did the conversion.

Anyone know what the 5th connector is for on the switch? Mine wasn't connected.
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  #18  
Old July 10th, 2012, 01:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by texrover View Post
Thanks Greenspan, I got it.

Twisted and turned wheel/ignition to no avail so I just popped it out with a few raps of the mallet and some negotiation. I wanted to try to identify what switch and lock combo I have anyway so I wanted to pull it. But no part numbers that I can see. I've got a 1983 110 with 200Tdi, so I was trying to see if they did any changes to the switch and lock assembly when they did the conversion.

Anyone know what the 5th connector is for on the switch? Mine wasn't connected.
Just curious, how long were the M6 bolts you ended up using?
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  #19  
Old July 10th, 2012, 02:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jefhuf View Post
Just curious, how long were the M6 bolts you ended up using?
75mm

M6 was a little looser than what i would have preferred even after I rethreaded it.

1/4" would be better but that would be more effort than it's worth I think.

Spraying some rust solvent like PB Blaster helped.

The heads were a little small on the M6 so I stacked two washers (1/4") atop the larger washer that came with the puller; the washers with the puller we're bending as well thus the reason I added the two 1/4" per side.
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  #20  
Old July 10th, 2012, 02:31 PM
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http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Landrover-...item1c28c3a01c
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