Third Member oil seal - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old February 22nd, 2007, 06:50 AM
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Neil Steinhagen
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Third Member oil seal

I have gear oil leaking from the front of my third member, where the rear drive shaft bolts on. I'm assuming there's an oil seal gone bad. Anyone had to replace this? Does taking it apart mean setting backlash, etc.? Time involved? Thanks.

Did a quick search this morning but nothing jumped out at me. Late for work.

-Neil
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  #2  
Old February 22nd, 2007, 07:16 AM
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take off shaft, undo the big nut, pop out seal, replace with new and put back together
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  #3  
Old February 22nd, 2007, 07:56 AM
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does not Fu%$ up your back lash... by the way.
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  #4  
Old February 22nd, 2007, 10:23 AM
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Also while replacing the seal check the bearing. It could be bad and be causing the leak.
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  #5  
Old February 22nd, 2007, 03:28 PM
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Neil Steinhagen
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Would you recommend just replacing anyways since it's apart? Repacking at minimum? Anyone know the preload off the top of their head?
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  #6  
Old February 22nd, 2007, 05:07 PM
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If its not broke I wouldn't pull it out. If I remember its oil lubed from the diff.
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Can't you feel 'em circlin' (closin'in) honey?
Can't you feel 'em swimmin' around?
You got fins to the left, fins to the right,
and you're the only bait in town.
You got fins to the left, fins to the right,
and you're the only girl in town.

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  #7  
Old February 23rd, 2007, 02:17 AM
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Here's how to change seal with diff still on vehicle.

1) Remove four bolts and pull driveshaft to one side.
2) Hold drive flange by bolting a steel bar to two flange (adjacent) holes and bracing it against the floor.
3) Remove bolt (or nut on older models) that is holding drive flange to input shaft of diff.
4) Pull out input flange from splines.
5) Watch for spacer between flange and bearing it may fall out.
6) Pull out and replace seal.
7) reassemble flange and torque nut to at least 100 lbf. Preload is not changed when you do this.

It is not possible to change the bearings without removing and stripping the diff. You will need measuring tools and the shim packs to reset the pinion height and bearing preload and then next you replace the diff carrier and reset the backlash. This is a lot more work that just the seal.
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  #8  
Old March 23rd, 2007, 12:54 PM
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Neil Steinhagen
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I'm finally replacing the seal. Having a tough time removing the seal and I don't want to screw up the seating surface. I noticed that with the assemby apart, I can move the pinion from side to side (pointing to it in the picture). Does this indicate a bad bearing? Should there be no side-side movement in the pinion, or does the outer assembly that the nut goes on align the pinion? I am looking in my manual now, but any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

-Neil

In my manual, it sounds like there is a inner and outer bearing cone that supports the drive pinion. I equate this to being bad for me. Anyone got a third member they want to sell?
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  #9  
Old March 23rd, 2007, 01:22 PM
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I used to just carefully hammer a flathead screwdriver into the seal til I puncture it, than pry it out. Then drift in a new one with a rubber mallet or a piece of wood til its flush.

Neil
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  #10  
Old March 23rd, 2007, 01:31 PM
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Neil Steinhagen
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I think I'm alright. I pulled out the seal and was able to remove the outer cone bearing. Looked fine. I believe that as the pinion nut is tightened, it loads the bearing which aligns it. With the nut removed, no load on the bearing, therefore resulting in lateral movement of the pinion. If I'm reading the manual right, I torquing it to 15-36 kgf cm...I hate unit conversion.

Did the conversion...13-31 inch-pounds? Can this be right? It didn't budge with a breaker bar to remove.

Follow-up Post:

Neil,

The screw dirver trick is exactly what I ended up doing. Great names think aliike.
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  #11  
Old March 23rd, 2007, 02:59 PM
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I think you are reading the wrong numbers.

130 Nm or 95 lb-ft from what I read in the 1996 manual.
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