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  #1  
Old April 11th, 2015, 11:29 AM
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Thinning Waxoyl

Has anyone used lacquer thinner in place of mineral spirits to thin Waxoyl?

I'm guessing it would just evaporate more quickly, but has anyone tried it?

Looking for a fine coating, not like the gloppy jobs you see folks do when theyre trying to hide rot.
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  #2  
Old April 11th, 2015, 02:17 PM
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Personally I prefer Dinitrol. I have always applied with disposable foam brush to the exterior of the chassis, and fully injected the inside of the chassis and outriggers. First using ML3125 and couple days later 4941. I had no trouble reaching all of the chassis with a brush and the end product simply looks like it is just painted. None of the goopy or tar look, no texture and absolutely no overspray. Setting the can in very hot water for a while prior to injecting or spraying works well too if you are looking for other ways to thin.

Have fun, stay clean!
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Old April 11th, 2015, 02:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jackie Treehorn View Post
Has anyone used lacquer thinner in place of mineral spirits to thin Waxoyl? I'm guessing it would just evaporate more quickly, but has anyone tried it? Looking for a fine coating, not like the gloppy jobs you see folks do when theyre trying to hide rot.
I have soaked it in a bucket of hot water before spraying. It goes on quite thin...
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Old April 11th, 2015, 03:57 PM
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It's sitting on a hot water pipe (radiator) in the shop now (the tin). Folks have suggested a hot plate.
I get that you have to make it warm. Like above 70 at least.

I was just reading different opinions (mostly on UK) boards about how people thin it with "white spirits" a/k/a mineral spirits. I have lacquer thinner now, but can get some mineral spirits, but my thought was that the lacquer thinner should evaporate faster than mineral spirits that's all.

I'm talking about the Hardwax for the outside of frame. I already hit the internals with 50/50 mix of LPS1/motor oil and let it creep for the past few days.

I just don't want the frame rails to look like a tar-soaked tractor trailer frame. I spent a ton of time cleaning, prepping and POR 15 coating any exposed areas and don't want the frame looking like a greasy mess after Waxoyl that's all.
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Old April 11th, 2015, 04:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by broadstone View Post
Personally I prefer Dinitrol. I have always applied with disposable foam brush to the exterior of the chassis, and fully injected the inside of the chassis and outriggers. First using ML3125 and couple days later 4941. I had no trouble reaching all of the chassis with a brush and the end product simply looks like it is just painted. None of the goopy or tar look, no texture and absolutely no overspray. Setting the can in very hot water for a while prior to injecting or spraying works well too if you are looking for other ways to thin.

Have fun, stay clean!
Has any one been able to get dinitrol in north America? I tried for the life of me and everyone in the UK refused to ship to Canada, talked to the north American hq (Joe something) and offered to buy it by the case since they wholesale and he stopped replying. Extremely frustrating.

Anyone in the UK feel like trying to ship some over if no one in NA has any suggestions?
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Old April 11th, 2015, 04:58 PM
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Xylene is quicker to flash off
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  #7  
Old April 11th, 2015, 06:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o2batsea View Post
Xylene is quicker to flash off
Perfect, I was thinning the POR with Xylene so I've got one less thing to buy.
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Old April 14th, 2015, 06:36 AM
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Boeshield.com

or

fluid-film.com

my recommendations. Was never the biggest fan of waxoyl. I prefer oil over wax.. Just my .02
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Old April 14th, 2015, 07:03 AM
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jackie...any chance you would consider actual two part epoxy or catalyzed urethane vs por? por has low strength from what i have experienced in exterior applications, and the adhesion is low.
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  #10  
Old April 14th, 2015, 08:07 AM
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A, waxoyl only looks gloppy and textured if the chassis is not fresh, or if you're using aerosols. If you use the wand and high enough pressure it looks great.
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  #11  
Old April 14th, 2015, 08:22 AM
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Chris, you are the second person this week to tell me about "Fluid- Film" - there must be a local rep around here. It's essentially lanolin I'm told.


Ed, it's funny over the years I've read so many polarized opinions about POR-15. I mean you can jump on ANY forum from the John Deere tractor forum to the Chevelle board and you'll get 1,001 opinions about POR-15 (positive and negative). Without starting a debate in this thread (cause it literally will turn into a 15-page debate), I'll say the results are mixed with POR-15. I'll admit it's not the best solution on a chassis that has seen grease, oil and waxoyl in its life.....unless you get it 100% clean. In fact, I'll do a search here before starting another thread on POR-15 vs. epoxy but I will say that I brushed on the POR-15 and this was my first time thinning and spraying the top coat (Chassis Black) so we'll see. I really just did touch-ups on the chassis with the POR-15 as it wsn't that bad to begin with.


However, my rock sliders were bad. Mantec PC did not hold up (even on the topside). When I was quoted $600 to re-powdercoat the sliders (when you can get a new set at RN for $500) I figured what is there to lose. Stripped then down to bare metal and actually let some surface rust form by leaving them outside for a week. Sanded again, etched and POR-15. Came out looking like glass, then coated with chassis black so they will take on a satin finish and have UV protection.


Now, back to the waxoyl. I tried it a few ways. (now, we're talking about the black wax, not the clear stuff for inside the frame as that has already been addressed).
First, I warmed it with a halogen heat lamp with good results. It gets really thin.
However, it cools quick when it's going through the gun. I wanted to thin it enough to get it to shoot through the little hook wand gun to get surgical with it.....and it worked for a while....until it gelled and clogged. Probably because I wasn't working fast enough. Anyway, an hour later after I douched the equipment, I switched to the larger spray gun with the black plastic tip, lowered air pressure to 100psi and hit all the large expanses. All the while thinning with 10% Xylene which really helped the waxoyl travel and atomize.
I'm not done, but here it is after several hours on Sunday (3 of those hours were clean up).


(Note the seam area on the lower edge of the rear crossmember - this area is horrible at trapping debris and usually is the first to go. I thoroughly cleaned this with wire brush, acetone, then compressed air before spraying thinned POR-15 in there. Then generous amounts of 50/50 LPS/motor oil sprayed in - does anyone know if this open edge is the only open edge? would welding it closed make it worse for drainage? I'm done here, but thinking of anyone installing a new non-galvy crossmember)
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