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  #1  
Old July 23rd, 2007, 07:03 PM
Seanh
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Sean Hanagan
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Thermostat switch

Do I need to drain the coolant to change the thermostat? My manual says yes.
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  #2  
Old July 23rd, 2007, 08:30 PM
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It is a messy job and hard to reach. I usually drain part of the coolant. It is also easier to do the job right if you pull the dizzy out so it is not in the way. Careful not to strip or break the bolts off or you will be pulling the plenum to fix it. I had one that was frozen and snapped off so I know from experience. Be sure and put the weep hole at 12 o'clock when you put in the thermostat.

Cheers
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Old July 23rd, 2007, 08:53 PM
Seanh
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Sean Hanagan
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Dizzy?
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Old July 23rd, 2007, 10:14 PM
Andrew Vick
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Distributor. Cap. Thingy with spark plug wire running to it.
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Old July 23rd, 2007, 10:27 PM
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Sean Hanagan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew Vick
Distributor. Cap. Thingy with spark plug wire running to it.
AHHHHH THE DIZZY! Thanks,
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  #6  
Old July 23rd, 2007, 11:40 PM
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Hans Haase
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Just to make sure, since the thread title is a bit different.

Are you changing the whole thermostat? Or just the temp switch that threads into the housing?

If you are changing the thermostat, yes you have to drain some of the coolant to change it.

If you are just changing the temp switch that threads into the housing.... I just make sure the engine is cold and do it without draining. Just make sure you're quick, because coolant will be coming out while you have the thing removed.

-hans
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  #7  
Old July 24th, 2007, 09:39 AM
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Sorry a bit of limey slang...

On the UK boards your likely to see something like this:

There's a septic whos dizzy is knackered and he thinks his whole lump is ready for the tipper! Bollocks, wif a bit o muster and a few spares, he could be one jammy git.
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  #8  
Old February 26th, 2009, 12:06 PM
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where's the best place to drain some water for the thermostat change? the top radiator hose on the radiator side? My radiator itself does not have a drain plug. Thanks
Also, are there any other tips like: the weep hole goes at 12 o'clock.

Do you use any sealant or just the supplied gasket?
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Old February 26th, 2009, 01:18 PM
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I use a little sealant on one side of the gasket so that it will stick in place. Makes the job easier. Don't overtorque the fasteners or it will make you pull the intake manifold to get them back out again.

As for draining the coolant, I usually just undo the top hose and then of course some coolant spills out on the valley gasket. If you wanted to be really clean about it you should let some coolant out by undoing the bottom hose on the rad, but in my experience you end up wearing it that way and then you will have more trouble refilling the system and getting all the air out.

I have started raising the front end with a set of ramps when I am refilling the cooling system. It makes it easier to get air out. Also you can pour some coolant into the top radiator hose and let it slowly fill the intake manifold by going through the weep hole (that is why it is there, to keep the hose from being full and the intake manifold dry).

It is a messy job no matter how you do it.
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  #10  
Old November 28th, 2009, 12:18 PM
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I got an aftermarket thermostat that supposedly runs a little cooler, but it doesn't have the weep hole. Is that hole necessary? Should I drill one or do you think I can just go without? What the hell does the weep hole do anyways?

B
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Old November 28th, 2009, 12:34 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wcampbel@nas.edu
I got an aftermarket thermostat that supposedly runs a little cooler, but it doesn't have the weep hole. Is that hole necessary? Should I drill one or do you think I can just go without? What the hell does the weep hole do anyways?
I didn't know this, but apparently this is why
Quote:
Originally Posted by landrovered
Also you can pour some coolant into the top radiator hose and let it slowly fill the intake manifold by going through the weep hole (that is why it is there, to keep the hose from being full and the intake manifold dry).
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Old November 28th, 2009, 02:01 PM
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Weep hole lets air pass through, to prevent an airlock in the vicinity of the thermostat. I'd drill one if it wasn't already there, doesn't have to be very big. 3/32" to 1/8" or so sounds about right.

-Hans
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  #13  
Old November 28th, 2009, 03:25 PM
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mark kellgren
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Quote:
Originally Posted by landrovered
There's a septic whos dizzy is knackered and he thinks his whole lump is ready for the tipper! Bollocks, wif a bit o muster and a few spares, he could be one jammy git.
This explains why after ordering a used 2nd row seat from a breaker in the UK, and having a perfectly normal dialogue in email, when I finally called him to talk live, I couldn't understand anything he was saying!

I only understand about half of what you just wrote! Geez. They use quite a bit of slang, don't they?

what the hell is a "jammy git"? I have to know now.
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  #14  
Old November 28th, 2009, 06:32 PM
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Bill Campbell
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hans
Weep hole lets air pass through, to prevent an airlock in the vicinity of the thermostat. I'd drill one if it wasn't already there, doesn't have to be very big. 3/32" to 1/8" or so sounds about right.

-Hans
Ya, I was planning on matching it up with the old one and drilling it I guess.

Weird overheating issue. Starts up and runs a little cool, just short of midpoint. After about 5 mins it kicks over and spikes to about 3 needlewidths past midpoint, then settles down to about 1 needlewidth past midpoint. This is all after i replaced the water pump and put a new thermostat in. Funny thing is that sometimes if I ran it a while then stopped to run in a store or something then cranked it back up like 10-20 minutes later it would run cool, just short of midpoint rest of the time. I am thinking thermostat and I am planning to replace that and am putting in new hoses and got the radiator flushed as well.

Any other suggestions?
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