Thermostat for the PNW and PS hemorrhage. - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old January 25th, 2014, 08:59 PM
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DJ Menasco is The Dude
1995 D90
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Thermostat for the PNW and PS hemorrhage.

I just moved to the Pacific Northwest from Texas where the average temp is ten thousand degrees F in the winter. I noticed the ambient temperature up here is a little cooler and my heater isnt working worth dick.

Which thermostat degree rating do you all typically run in your rigs up here? Im gonna swap in my Disco (4.0) and Defenders (3.9)

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

While were on the topic of advice has anyone ever purchased a power steering unit that did not hemorrhage PS fluid from the main shaft? Im about to pack mine with C4 and blow it to sharpnel sized chunks of failure. "fire in the hole!" If anyone has ever seen such a thing (maybe you've also seen a Chupacabra or Yeti) I'd love to know what brand it was or who carries them. I'll even settle for one that doesnt require me to buy the gallon sized PS fluid jugs monthly.

Thanks,

Keith
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  #2  
Old January 25th, 2014, 09:04 PM
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Ray Gerber
54 S1 86", 96 D1 (Coyote), 06 D3
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For the PS go with the Meridian Reman...I assume Will Tillery can still facilitate that. I've had one in plastic for years waiting for the inevitable (and of course, by having it, the inevitable has yet to happen...till I just wrote that.)
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  #3  
Old January 26th, 2014, 12:44 AM
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1st 'd replace the thermostat you're using to insure it's not worn out. Are you sure you don't have a heating core issue too ?
I'm sure you will only find a standard temperature T-stat listed, probably a 192F (88C). You may find a colder one listed, but that's not what you are after.

It is possible to build one that is a higher temperature by assembling components of 2 units. I have done this to create a 195, 198, 203 and a 205(high flow) thermostats for my 300Tdi. I had zero temperature gain by blocking off the radiator. A higher temperature unit will also make the system pressure also increase, so you may find leaks that you were not aware existed. Even when I run the 203 in the coldest part of the winter, my radiator cap does not blow off which tells me that I'm still below the system maximum pressure. I have not run the 205 high flow unit yet (40% greater flow) because higher flow will actually result in a lower temperature because it allows the water in the bock/head to exit faster therefore not absorbing as much heat to be dissipated in the radiator. http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...tdi+thermostat

If you decide to do this, I'd recommend that you 1st install a VDO Temperature gauge by their instructions to be sure of it's accuracy. Maybe get yourself an IR gun (+/-2MAX) & measure the temp at the sender to be sure of accuracy seen at the gauge. http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...ir+thermometer
http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...tdi+thermostat

I use MotoRad thermostats to make mine. Here's their catalog link. They are found commonly on eBay.
http://www.fishman-tt.com/_Uploads/d...09_Catalog.pdf

You will need to maintain the D1 diameter and the approximate over all length (AOL). The wax pellet (copper thing in the middle) does come out and you can carefully unwind the spring out of the pressed together housing, replace the pellet and screw the spring back in.

Here's a link to help you in this process. http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread...=306799&page=4
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  #4  
Old January 26th, 2014, 10:04 PM
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thanks

volume temperature pressure, forgot about that one from the Navy diving days. My old buddies Boyle, Charles, and Gay-Lussac
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