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  #1  
Old October 27th, 2015, 08:29 AM
slorocco
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Dan Prasada-Rao
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The saga continues. 94 NAS D90

I've been trying to tighten up a 94 D90 ST for my uncle. It had an exhaust leak at the bottom of the right side exhaust manifold where it bolts to the y pipe. So I got the exhaust sorted and bolted back up. It also has a bit of a coolant leak which I thought was from the thermostat. Well.... Maybe not. After bolting the new manifolds on and the rest of the exhaust I fired it up with high hopes. Not so much. It now appears to be blowing exhaust up past the head bolt between cylinders 8 and 6. So, would that indicate a blown head gasket, or is it more likely to be a cracked head? Getting frustrated with this.
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  #2  
Old October 27th, 2015, 08:32 AM
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john
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how many miles on it?
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  #3  
Old October 27th, 2015, 08:45 AM
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Mark Garrenton
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Was it leaking there before? Has the motor overheated? Are you sure it is leaking between the head and block or is it the head and manifold?
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  #4  
Old October 27th, 2015, 02:10 PM
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Jason England
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Exhaust gasket is on upside down.
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  #5  
Old October 27th, 2015, 02:56 PM
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Dan, start it up cold and immediately feel around the exhaust manifold--->head junction and the manifold---> y-pipe junction.
You might get lucky and just have a blown out gasket.
You have a minute or so to feel around before things get heated up there...


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  #6  
Old October 27th, 2015, 03:22 PM
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Chris Davis
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You can use a piece of hose--stick one in by your ear, the other end poke around at the various areas you suspect the leak to pin point it.

A guess would be that the manifold/engine bolts have worked a little loose as they often due and a laterial pressure from replacing the y-pipe/manifold gasket allowed a small gap to open on the upper portion of the manifold/engine gasket and you are getting gasket blow-by... A hose will be able to pinpoint where the leak is from.
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Old October 27th, 2015, 04:54 PM
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We've repaired that type of blown head gasket about 5 times. The noise will get worse. We call it the Chitty Chitty Bang Bang repair.
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  #8  
Old October 27th, 2015, 04:55 PM
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Dan Prasada-Rao
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Thanks for the suggestions.

This truck has only 124,000 miles but it has overheated a couple of times. However it was not leaking at this location prior to the work I did. Hmmm

It has all new exhaust manifold gaskets on it, they are not upside down, I don't think. They are all installed with the connecting piece between the adjacent ports on the low side.

I just went out, fired it up and felt around before it got too hot. It may actually be leaking behind the exhaust manifold gasket at the number six cylinder and getting funneled up around the head of the head bolt making it seem like it's coming from the head bolt. I will pull that manifold and re install with new gaskets. I torqued the manifold to head bolts to 21 nm per the manual but that seems pretty low. Is that really the right number? Incidentally, I had to remove the two bottom manifold bolts under the number eight and number six exhaust ports and re install them to get the starter heat shield on right. That may be what caused the leak, if that's actually where it's leaking.

Thanks for the tips.

------ Follow up post added October 27th, 2015 04:58 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by RoverDude View Post
We've repaired that type of blown head gasket about 5 times. The noise will get worse. We call it the Chitty Chitty Bang Bang repair.
Head gasket or manifold gasket? I'm really hoping it's just the manifold gasket. And yes, it does sound like Chitty Chitty Bang Bang!
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  #9  
Old October 27th, 2015, 05:12 PM
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Dan Prasada-Rao
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JSBriggs View Post
Ive had the manifold gaskets fail. Im guessing it was on its way out, and moving things around might have damaged it to the point of leaking. Give that a try before doing the head gasket.

-Jeff
I could understand it with old gaskets but these are brand new manifold gaskets and reconditioned manifolds. I'm hoping it's simply a matter of me screwing it up when I pulled and reinstalled the two bottom bolts under the two exhaust ports, 8 and 6, after the manifold was already installed.
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  #10  
Old October 30th, 2015, 08:23 PM
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Dan Prasada-Rao
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Well, I re did the the exhaust manifold gaskets on the right side. The good news is the exhaust is sealed up tight. The bad news is that the head gasket is where the leak is coming from on the number six cylinder. The outside head bolt between cly 6 and 8 is what seemed to be leaking. I found out that the head bolt was actually loose so I torqued it down. The leak moved to right outside the number six cylinder.

So, I now have a new question. If I have to take it down that far should I just re do both heads? I found a vendor hat has a package deal going for two recondition heads and gasket set for about $800. Worth buying?
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  #11  
Old October 30th, 2015, 10:26 PM
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Unless you are a glutton for punishment I would do both sides at the same time. As for the $800 reconditioned heads I would save your money and get your heads surfaced for a fraction of the price and buy new gaskets and head bolts.

*****Disclaimer***** I'm a diesel guy so let's see what the died in the wool petrol guys have to say.
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  #12  
Old October 30th, 2015, 10:48 PM
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Nathan Garnand
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Get a head kit from you favorite supplier. Send your heads out for a resurface and valve job. It's an easy job. Plus watch your elbows as you will dent the shit out of the upper fenders.
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  #13  
Old October 31st, 2015, 07:14 AM
slorocco
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Dan Prasada-Rao
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Thanks for the recommendations guys. I'll Dion that. I have great local machinist that could do the work for me I think. Plus he's a Land Rover owner.
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  #14  
Old October 31st, 2015, 07:39 AM
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Kevin Keith
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There is one upside to the recondition heads... you'll save a bunch of down time but maybe your machinist has a fast turnaround. You could still have your heads resurfaced & valve job then sell to recoup some $$$.
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  #15  
Old October 31st, 2015, 11:01 AM
slorocco
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Dan Prasada-Rao
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Yeah, I thought about that too, but I think I need to save the $$ more than I need a quick turnaround on this one.
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  #16  
Old October 31st, 2015, 01:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slorocco View Post
Yeah, I thought about that too, but I think I need to save the $$ more than I need a quick turnaround on this one.
If it helps....

I had mine resurfaced at a local machine shop and also had one valve replaced that turned out to be damaged for about $225 with a two day turnaround.

My issue was with the rocker assembly. It ended up costing an additional $500+ from D&D for a refurbished set plus gaskets.
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  #17  
Old October 31st, 2015, 02:22 PM
slorocco
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Dan Prasada-Rao
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Thanks for the price info. I'm hoping mine goes easy. I have great machinist but he's not the cheapest. On the plus side he always does a great job. He's even built new swivel pins for me on a front Salisbury when I couldn't find any anywhere else.
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