The latest show-stopper: dies at idle, only runs above 2K rpm - Page 2 - Defender Source
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  #21  
Old September 29th, 2004, 12:58 PM
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Doug Walker
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Put it on a flat bed to Eddie Bostock in Irvine -- West Coast Rovers. Either that or buy or borrow a used ECU (any will work from around the same year disco or defender) and try it. Just unplug and exchange.

Eddie knows defenders cold. 949) 768-3777
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  #22  
Old September 29th, 2004, 03:03 PM
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Jason Herring
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One of my next questions was going to be a recommendation for a good, fast and cheap LR mechanic (pick any two) in the LA area.

I did forget to mention that I disconnected/reconnected the ECU to see if there was any difference in performance or signs of corrosion... and there was not (though it did clear the error code I generated when I disconnected the MAF sensor). I don't know where I could find used ECU to swap in... the junkyard is not very accomodating in this area...
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  #23  
Old September 29th, 2004, 06:20 PM
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Eddie would probably have one around the yard. Any 94 or 95 Disco for sure would be fine to swap with for testing.

I bought a 95 disco ecu from roverlandparts.com in Florida for $250 a while back. Worked fine in my rig. You need a "14CU" or "14CUX" ecu. Triumphs and a bunch of other cars have 'em too.

Trust Eddie. He's done lots of work for me and he's a smart, honest guy.

DW
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  #24  
Old September 29th, 2004, 06:24 PM
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Hey if you bring it in don't forget to post what he finds wrong!
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first then ask questions later! The loose nut behind the wheel
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  #25  
Old September 30th, 2004, 08:25 PM
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Jason Herring
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I talked to Eddie at West Coast Rovers & I'm going to try to get the truck there this weekend. Seems like a nice guy. I'll let you know what he finds...
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  #26  
Old September 30th, 2004, 08:51 PM
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pulled MAF wire and noticed idle improvement (did not drive it like this)

DRIVE IT LIKE THAT!

It gives an open loop mode and basically narrows it down to something electrical.

It may even start if you disconnect it.
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  #27  
Old October 1st, 2004, 11:41 AM
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I agree with Doug. Swap out the ECU with a known working unit. My 94 has had this dilema more than once. The symptoms you describe are almost spot on. On the 94's the ECU is just in a bad location, seems to be susceptible to moisture. Good luck.
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  #28  
Old October 3rd, 2004, 09:28 PM
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I have a spare if you want to try it. Disco chipped and ready to go.

Pay for it, try it, if it does not work just cover shipping and I will give you your money back.
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  #29  
Old October 4th, 2004, 02:13 PM
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Jason Herring
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I took the truck to West Coat Rover -- well, I had it flatbedded there -- on Friday morning. Eddie said he has a spare to swap in & would be looking at it today sometime. Besides, now I can get in and out of the garage as it's not blocking the driveway anymore

Ron, if it turns out that the problem is the ECU I may buy it from you (depending on what WCR wants for a used one).
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  #30  
Old October 5th, 2004, 02:47 AM
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Sure, you can buy it.
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  #31  
Old December 21st, 2004, 11:36 PM
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matthew breuer
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oh man after reading i was hoping to reach a resolution on the bottom of page two as i am having similar problems w/my '94 d90 - stalls at low RPM, shuddering/popping around 1000-2000 rpm, end even problems starting after a good rain (but not snow) jason - hope i can borrow your resolution...
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  #32  
Old December 23rd, 2004, 01:37 PM
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Townsend Wolfe
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I've had similar symptoms in the past. Changing the coil worked for me once. Changing the stepper motor worked once along with cleaning out the "T" fitting (didn't read that you did that - "stearlize" it too).


Latest fix for similar symptoms that worked for me was changing the Fuel Temperature Sender and the Engine Coolant Temperature Sender.

PS - the shop manual has a ohm-meter check for the TPS...
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  #33  
Old December 23rd, 2004, 02:09 PM
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Jason Herring
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My resolution was a pretty unlikely one - the brand-new rotor I had purchased for the truck was in fact bad. I purchased it at NAPA and it was defective new from the box.

Along those lines, for the same symptom again I'd check the rotor, cap, coil wire and coil. And, just because you replaced one of those items, don't assume it's any good! That was the most expensive rotor I ever purchased...
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  #34  
Old December 23rd, 2004, 06:39 PM
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Townsend Wolfe
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Now that you mention it - I've had the bad rotor too - been there!

I did teach me a great troubleshooting technique for a bad rotor.

Remove Dist cap and a coil wire from center of cap. Hold cap end, not touching but close over top center of rotor. Crank. If Spark then bad rotor. No spark, rotor is ok.
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  #35  
Old December 23rd, 2004, 07:05 PM
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Chris Davis
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There is a way to check the rotor--you take off the cap, hold the high tension lead above the rotor (I think 3mm) and crank the engine--if you have sparking, you have a bad rotor.
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