The Dreaded Bulkhead to Chassis Bolts! - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old May 22nd, 2016, 11:03 PM
gwmckee
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The Dreaded Bulkhead to Chassis Bolts!

Well, I thought I would try to seal up a few leaks on my NAS 90 and ended up deciding the swap in a galvanized frame The short version of the story is that when I took down the cross bar under the transmission I discovered a major hole in the frame. Since the old frame was banged around pretty good by the PO, I thought I'd try my hand a replacing it. What an awesome project this has been and the forum has been invaluable. I've reached the point where I should be removing the bulkhead but the problem is that the #$!* through bolts won't come out. I got the nuts to come off but the bolts just don't want to let go. Beating the daylights out of one got it to back out about a half inch. It spins with a good deal of force but won't come out any more. One of the previous owners put rock sliders on and the bolts hold those in place as well. Since the frame was bent, I suspect the sliders also took a beating and wouldn't be surprised if the bolts are bent. Any suggestions as to how I can get the darn things out?

Thanks in advance!
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  #2  
Old May 22nd, 2016, 11:40 PM
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BFH. Try putting a jack under the bulkhead to take the weight off the bolt.
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  #3  
Old May 22nd, 2016, 11:43 PM
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Air chisel
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  #4  
Old May 23rd, 2016, 07:55 AM
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Thanks Forrest! I was thinking about putting a torch to the bolts to heat them up. Any idea if this will work? Have you ever tried this before? I'm not sure what it would do to the aluminum in the bulkhead.
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  #5  
Old May 23rd, 2016, 08:07 AM
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bulkheads are steel.
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  #6  
Old May 23rd, 2016, 08:09 AM
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Old May 23rd, 2016, 08:09 AM
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Torch the crap out of it. Use Mapp gas or Oxy/Axcet for the task. Propane isn't hot enough. Follow with Kroil or PB Blaster. If you've moved the bolt 1/2 inch you might cut off the protruding end and work it the other way. Try hard not to burn paint. The bulkhead will be fine as long as you're not applying heat directly. You could start cut away at the old outrigger from the bottom until you get to the portion retaining the bolt and heat it directly or just split it lengthwise to relieve pressure.
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  #8  
Old May 23rd, 2016, 08:11 AM
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I had the same problem. Soaked mine in PB blaster for about a week and I was finally able to back them out. Huge PITA.
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Old May 23rd, 2016, 08:34 AM
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As always, you guys are great. Thanks for the input. I've been hitting it with PB Blaster for the last couple days in anticipation of getting to this point. I'll grab the air chisel set from my Dad and the big touch from my brother in law and give it another go.
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  #10  
Old May 23rd, 2016, 09:02 AM
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Since you're swapping frames, I'd go the Sawzall route.
Cut the bolts.
Then when the bulkhead is off and there is no tension on the bolts, knock the remainder out of the bulkhead.
Certainly, you'll be putting in new bolts anyway that are slathered in anti-sieze grease.



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  #11  
Old May 23rd, 2016, 05:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gwmckee View Post
Thanks Forrest! I was thinking about putting a torch to the bolts to heat them up. Any idea if this will work? Have you ever tried this before? I'm not sure what it would do to the aluminum in the bulkhead.
Heat away, there is no aluminum in the bulkhead.
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  #12  
Old May 23rd, 2016, 06:57 PM
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Since I have done a bunch of these .... Or at least tried to ...

Take the nut off. This is the easy part. Put it back on the threads but just enough that it is covering the threads so they don't mushroom.

Try turning the bolt end. If it spins, great, you have a unicorn. If it does not, hammer the crap out of the nut end. Try spinning again.

Ok so that did not work. Spray some PB on the bolt where it goes through the frame, disconnect everything that should get the bulkhead off, they stick a prybar in there while you hammer on the nut and the bolts should be seized in the bulkhead but should come of of the frame. Remove bulkhead with bolts sticking out. Heat can help, but generally they come out of the frame just not the bulkhead.

Replace bulkhead and frame with new. Buy new bolts (note they are longer on NAS Trucks so the stock rover part is too short). Slather the shafts in anti-seize (or marine grade grease). Refit.

If you need to get them out of the bulkhead, spin the bolt until the head sheers off, pound on the other end until you start bending the bulkhead foot, then give up, cut the sides off and air chisel away. That probably won't work either so just buy new feet and weld them on the bulkhead or cut out the tubes and fit new tubes.
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  #13  
Old May 23rd, 2016, 10:37 PM
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Sounds like I have a wide range of options/scenarios than can play out. Picked up a new compressor today a sprayed about half a can of PB Blaster on the bolts. Tomorrow I start with the air chisel with a punch bit in it then move to more drastic measures if need be. Fingers crossed.
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  #14  
Old May 23rd, 2016, 10:46 PM
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160 psi air pressure and a 400ft lb impact works the charm for me. When they spin but don't back out simply push on the thread end of the bolt with a block of wood and then a screw driver once its inside the outrigger. I wouldn't beat on them with a hammer.
FWIW -Kroil is far superior to pb blaster
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Old May 23rd, 2016, 10:59 PM
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Thanks Doug - just ordered a can of Kroil from Amazon I'm gonna be about 35psi and 100lbs short on muscle but hopefully what I have will be enough. Fingers crossed. One way or another those little suckers are coming out.
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  #16  
Old May 23rd, 2016, 11:07 PM
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If you moved one a half inch you have that one whipped. Impacts tend to break things loose with the hammer action that a breaker bar will just sheer off.
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  #17  
Old May 24th, 2016, 09:18 PM
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Success!!! Thanks to everyone who offered up suggestions. The winning formula for me was lots of PB Blaster (Kroil won't be here till Thursday), lots of heat from a torch and then finish it off with an air chisel bitch slapping
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  #18  
Old May 24th, 2016, 10:42 PM
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Nice... like Doug said, go straight to the Kroil.
It really is the best.

So which brand galvanized frame are you going with?



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  #19  
Old May 25th, 2016, 08:17 AM
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I went with one from Rovers North (RNS365). It seems good. I saw that Atlantic British has a frame kit that includes a bunch of other things that will likely be needed including fuel lines, shocks, springs and hardware for about $1,200 more than I paid. Provided the frames are equivalent, that would have been a better deal for me.
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  #20  
Old May 25th, 2016, 08:38 AM
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I know its a deep sickness but,

galvanized chassis are sexy.
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